Thread: Gadgets in the afternoon

Originally Posted by Ueee

Nice save Phil.

How big is the brass bar used?

Ew

Thanks Ewan,
The brass is 1.5" diameter and 2" long.

Phil

Great...another thing to add to the rountoit list!

My cheapie dial that i use in the toolpost is mounted on a lug back. Its not a problem but i can only just get the holder down far enough on the toolpost to get the dial on center.

Ew

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

could the angle piece be bolted onto the end of the piece in the tool post.

As I was posting the better half walked in and asked what I was doing, and I explained why we post these questions and that sometimes someone has a better idea, for example like bolting it together...

I want this to be as solid as possible. One thing i discovered when disassembling today was that the back of the indicator was loose, so I might have had inaccuracies creeping in when setting up in the four jaw or for tapers. I'd prefer something that would not allow that. I did wonder about welding a gusset into the internal corner (perhaps rebated into the steel as well) - even perhaps leaving the corner out so that it was effectively a web rather than a gusset.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

I want this to be as solid as possible.

Another thing, if you really want to get excited, shouldnt the cottered arrangement be on the other side of the dial indicator?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

I'm not 100% sure I know what you're trying to do but, couldn't you bend the bar first then drill the hole?

I know a guy that could replace that crystal for you.

The crystal looks worse than it is, but we'll see how it all goes - it may be worth it. Bending the bar first is possible but not now...
I normally find that when I bend these things, putting the holes in ends up being difficult because of the position of the bent bar or holding it. I also did it this way because I toyed with holding it like a boring bar, but after trying it it means for small diameter parts I may foul the tailstock

Originally Posted by Ueee

Great...another thing to add to the roundtoit list!

My cheapie dial that I use in the toolpost is mounted on a lug back. Its not a problem but I can only just get the holder down far enough on the toolpost to get the dial on center.

This should mean that I am right on centre all the time, parallel with the direction of cross slide feed and the dial won't move relative to it's mount.
Plan B is to make a flat back, plan C is to machine off the lug. Thought I'd ask in case there was a need out there.

Can't see why the cotter should be on the far side - I'm not pinching the mounting bar together. The cotter clamps on the shaft of the indicator and is a snug fit in the hole, as well as having a wedge action. It's a much cleaner clamping method.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

I normally find that when I bend these things, putting the holes in ends up being difficult because of the position of the bent bar or holding it.

I was thinking mount it in the same holder you are using now and drill it in the lathe.(if I'm right thinking you're using a QCTP). The hole for the cotter is your problem

Originally Posted by Michael G

Can't see why the cotter should be on the far side -

I was just being a "little" pedantic about the bar being more rigid if the hole for the cotter was on the other side........would likely make 2/10 of all difference.


Stuart

Originally Posted by Michael G

It is actually a stainless steel banana.

You're a dark horse!

Looking at Michael's indicator holder inspired me to have a go at one.( Something I should have made 10 years ago ) I thought a half cotter version might be easier than MG's setup. Don't know if it was or wasn't.
I made the bar from a 4E round bar trimming. The stuff machines beautifully. I was tempted to use the shaper but I reckon the milled finish is superior. It was the first time I had used the 5/8" wide cutter. Not trusting the accuracy of the bar being vice mounted I clamped the bar directly to the table to mill the stepped nose. I ended up using my cheap Eron vee block for the first time too when I had the drill through the bar at right angles.

I had a few problems. The stepped nose, for it to be of any use, had to be on the same horizontal plane as the centre of the 8mm hole for the indicator shank. Yesterday, I set up my centring scope to pick up the edge and corner of the step. Easy peasy until the scope was rotated 180 degrees to check the alignment. I then spent 5 hours rooting around, trying to correctly position the mirror/objective lens assembly then gave up. This morning I used the Taster. I have a issue with it as well, FM . The photo of the partially bored hole shows how much out of whack the Taster centred hole was. I ended up resorting to a loupe and a torch and crept the cutter up to the edge. (I'll deal with the Taster in another thread.)

The last photo shows the too much trouble centre height gauge and the reason for the stepped nose.

Thank you Michael.

Bob.

Into the chemical blacking? or was it cast it didnt work so well on?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Into the chemical blacking? or was it cast it didnt work so well on?

Stuart

I hadn't thought about dunking the thing, being preoccupied with Isoma and Haimer woes I'm getting old Stu, I couldn't remember if I had trouble with the Blackfast and the 4E. A forum search for Blackfast refreshed my memory. It works -

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...018-large-.jpg

I was unable to produce a real black when I tried colouring the Y stops I'd made for the 13 on the kitchen stove, pre the acquisition of the real thing. They were dark grey.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Looking at Michael's indicator holder inspired me to have a go at one.( Something I should have made 10 years ago ).

I had a few problems. I then spent 5 hours rooting around, trying to correctly position the mirror/objective lens assembly then gave up. This morning I used the Taster. I have a issue with it as well.

... shows the too much trouble centre height gauge.

Thank you Michael.

Oh dear - sorry about that. (note to self - don't post things that might inspire Bob)

The end result looks good though. Mine is a little more pedestrian, probably more in keeping with the battered indicator.

P1020106 (Medium).JPG

Michael

Bob
Nice machining and great photos as usual. You do have a great collection of clamps.
Bob

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Bob
Nice machining and great photos as usual. You do have a great collection of clamps.
Bob

Thank you Bob,

It's frustrating not having the right clamp for a job so I have kept my eye out over the years for stuff that I think might come in handy. The little yellow Hite Rite clamps are one of two pairs I picked up on US eBay along with the Williams Vulcan clamp. I have a bunch of Eclipse engineer's parallel clamps but there use has been eclipsed by the Vulcans of which I have four. The Eclipses are piddly things in comparison.

Then there's the stufenpratzen. I had the good fortune to pick up the pair in the photo cheaply on ebay.de. Unfortunately they aren't often cheap - Stufenpratzen 15 - 45 19mm z.B. für Fräsmaschine Spannpratzen Spannvorrichtung | eBay

Then Greg Q sold me a selection of different sized pairs of helix clamps when he cleared out his machine tool collection. Which was a sad thing. I enjoyed the rendezvous' I had at Greg's place.

Bob.

Bob,
When I first saw that picture of the Williams Vulcan clamp I thought "that is a real clamp". A little while back I made a pair of larger sized engineers clamps as a project, your Williams ones make mine look like a baby. The Hite clamps look a like they act a little like the bandsaw ring that Richard RC made only in reverse, with the swivel in the centre they would cover quite a range of heights for a small clamp, and being well made I am sure they would be a joy to use.
Bob