Thread: Gadgets in the afternoon

Thanks Bob - A XXXX from you is praise indeed. The hardest part was finding something to hang on to though. For everyone else, it's bloody small. To explain that, the Tee nut underneath is 6 x 7.75 x 13mm. The flange is only just over 2mm high.

Of course, seeing the stop fitted to the head suggests to me that I may have to remake mine - I assumed symmetry but it looks like the SHCS holding it on is not central vertically. (Oh for a measured drawing (it was all scaled from photos that Bob sent)). The other issue may be the vernier scale. Bob's vernier is for 0.9x 10mm = 9mm long. Mine being imperial is 0.9x 1/2" = 0.45" (11.43mm) - the scale just might fit (Probably the position of the scallop on the side is related to the stop Bob has just made too).

A pity as milling that was one of those jobs where it all happened just so. Maybe I'll get to do it all again (I'll wait until it's all back together I think)

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Thanks Bob - A XXXX from you is praise indeed. The hardest part was finding something to hang on to though. For everyone else, it's bloody small. To explain that, the Tee nut underneath is 6 x 7.75 x 13mm. The flange is only just over 2mm high.

Of course, seeing the stop fitted to the head suggests to me that I may have to remake mine - I assumed symmetry but it looks like the SHCS holding it on is not central vertically. (Oh for a measured drawing (it was all scaled from photos that Bob sent)). The other issue may be the vernier scale. Bob's vernier is for 0.9x 10mm = 9mm long. Mine being imperial is 0.9x 1/2" = 0.45" (11.43mm) - the scale just might fit (Probably the position of the scallop on the side is related to the stop Bob has just made too).

A pity as milling that was one of those jobs where it all happened just so. Maybe I'll get to do it all again (I'll wait until it's all back together I think)

Michael

Michael,

The centre of the 4mm radius scallop should align with the centreline of the tee slot. I made the barrel of the stop 8mm in diameter to suit. Turns out that the scallop is slightly off centre and as a consequence the barrel was being wedged ( not a good thing ) rather than providing a positive stop. A reduction of barrel size to around 7.5mm should resolve the problem I have. I will replace the countersunk socket screw with a cap screw, the latter has a head diameter of 7mm, smaller and more suitable for mine than the c/sunk screw. I will post you over the bits I have made though the tee nut may be the only thing of use.

The challenge with piddly stuff like this is, as you say, holding on to it.

BT

Did I break the rules ???? I did mine in the am its sort of what Phil started out with on here a shaft and a bearing but a different purpose.

I had to do two tho not one, bearings had to be bought to suit the need see here for details and photos.

Sorry no photos of machining or fitting the need was greater to get it finished and back in working order.

Originally Posted by Michael G

I guess it's one way to spend a hot afternoon

Attachment 300456 Attachment 300455

(Still need to do the chamfers, engraving and get a SHCS, but...)

Michael

Nice work Michael! Sorry about the late reply to this. I'm still playing catch up because of the holidays (and Kids). When I first saw it I thought it was a T nut clamp!

Simon

I've done it again,
I have long needed a small brass hammer to release the morse tapered shank collet chuck from my lathe spindle.
I have a copper/rawhide hammer but I reckon the copper has work hardened to the point that the copper is now harder than the steel
I was given a small piece of brass for this purpose and managed to find a 5/8" bolt long enough to become a handle so I cut the thread off the bolt and machined the hex round to gain better concentricity when machining the shank of the bolt.
I chucked a knurl on it which came out ok considering the poor quality of the knurling tool and screwcut a 1/2" UNF thread on the other end, neatened up the bit of brass and drill and tapped a matching thread in it for the handle.

Phil
DSCN1319.jpg DSCN1315.jpg

Nicely done Phil. I was monkeying around in the shed yesterday but all I managed to come up with was a piece of fruit. (left over 1.2mm S/S sheet)
DSC00130.JPG

Michael

Grinder guard?

Originally Posted by Michael G

Nicely done Phil. I was monkeying around in the shed yesterday but all I managed to come up with was a piece of fruit. (left over 1.2mm S/S sheet)
DSC00130.JPG

Michael

Are you going to make a whole bowl of fruit Michael?
Very cool idea if you are.
But then it probably is a grinder guard as Bryan said.
On my phone so insert emoticons at your will. Lol

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Are you going to make a whole bowl of fruit Michael?
Very cool idea if you are.
Phil

A bowl of metal fruit.... very nice idea.. My milling sometimes goes bananas, and I've had projects go pear shaped... now I need a bowl.

Ray

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

Are you going to make a whole bowl of fruit Michael?

It is actually a stainless steel banana.
I have thought about a bowl of fruit, but it's really a part time/ practice welding sort of project so could be a while before the next piece.

Michael

Today I decided to remake the mount I use for the beaten-up dial indicator I mount on the lathe. Previously I've had the lug on the back bolted onto a bracket held in a tool holder. Not 100% satisfactory, so I've now moved to a cottered arrangement, as per the photo -
P1020071 (Medium).JPG
Ironic really that I have a large-ish lathe and mill but lately the parts I have been making are lucky to be 14mm in the largest dimension.

P1020072 (Medium).JPG

It is now all held beautifully firmly but I would prefer a bar with a 90 degree angle so that I can put in a holder on the side of the tool post rather than one on the face (that is, the boring position). The previous version was cut and welded. The other option is to heat and bend. The way I see it if I heat and bend I may twist the bar and the bend is unlikely to be spot on anyway; if I cut and weld the join is really only going to be on the corners of the joint and as this will be machined flush top and bottom (even with a V prep) there will not be much weld there. Admittedly, there is not much strength required.
Has anyone any thoughts on which is a better option? (or has another even better option?)

In the meantime, the lug back is surplus to my needs so if anyone has a flat back for a Mitutoyo that they would like to swap for a lugged back, let me know.

Michael

A small addition guys,
with about 3 seconds of work left I had a small slip with the file and it gouged a small mark in the knurl at the end of the handle.
It was ok but as today wore on, it began to annoy me.
Here is how I managed to minimise the 'massively horrendous' gouge caused by the rookie slip with the file.

Phil
DSCN1320.JPG DSCN1325.JPG

Originally Posted by Michael G

Today I decided to remake the mount I use for the beaten-up dial indicator I mount on the lathe. Previously I've had the lug on the back bolted onto a bracket held in a tool holder. Not 100% satisfactory, so I've now moved to a cottered arrangement, as per the photo -
P1020071 (Medium).JPG
Ironic really that I have a large-ish lathe and mill but lately the parts I have been making are lucky to be 14mm in the largest dimension.

P1020072 (Medium).JPG

It is now all held beautifully firmly but I would prefer a bar with a 90 degree angle so that I can put in a holder on the side of the tool post rather than one on the face (that is, the boring position). The previous version was cut and welded. The other option is to heat and bend. The way I see it if I heat and bend I may twist the bar and the bend is unlikely to be spot on anyway; if I cut and weld the join is really only going to be on the corners of the joint and as this will be machined flush top and bottom (even with a V prep) there will not be much weld there. Admittedly, there is not much strength required.
Has anyone any thoughts on which is a better option? (or has another even better option?)

In the meantime, the lug back is surplus to my needs so if anyone has a flat back for a Mitutoyo that they would like to swap for a lugged back, let me know.

Michael

Hi Michael,
could the angle piece be bolted onto the end of the piece in the tool post.

Phil

Nice save Phil.

How big is the brass bar used?

Ew