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Thread: Garage wiring

  1. #1
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    Default Garage wiring

    I am thinking of adding some extra power points in my garage.
    The shed is not lined.
    The wiring that is there is old and just clipped to the studs and garage frame.
    My question is - Does any new wiring have to be installed inside conduit ?

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  3. #2
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    If it goes olong metal I think it does, if it goes along wood I would not bother..

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retromilling View Post
    I am thinking of adding some extra power points in my garage.
    The shed is not lined.
    The wiring that is there is old and just clipped to the studs and garage frame.
    My question is - Does any new wiring have to be installed inside conduit ?
    From a safety point of view it would be better in conduit and in the overall cost of the project the cost of the conduit is fairly small.
    I don't know the current regs ( I could probably find out easy enough) but keep in mind that legally the work should be done by a licenced eleco.
    Now if you know a licenced eleco, you could ask if they would let you run the cables etc and then they check it out and do the final connection. Their name would be on the paperwork. This is what I did when I wired my shed. I worked with a bloke who is licenced, and he told me what to buy and how he wanted it installed. Once I had that all done he came along, did the connections and got it all working. Saved quite a bit just in labour. I was also able to pick up a fair bit of stuff 2nd hand. I have 3 phase and 3 phase fittings a quite expensive if you have to buy them new.
    It would be a bit risky for someone not licenced to do the work because if there was ever a problem that could possibly be traced back to the wiring, then who ever did it could be in deep trouble. Its not so much about safety but having someone to blame if something goes wrong.

    regards
    bollie7

  5. #4
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    The shed is a wooden frame and the wiring that is there is insulated three core like in the walls of a house .

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    From a safety point of view it would be better in conduit and in the overall cost of the project the cost of the conduit is fairly small.
    I don't know the current regs ( I could probably find out easy enough) but keep in mind that legally the work should be done by a licenced eleco.
    Now if you know a licenced eleco, you could ask if they would let you run the cables etc and then they check it out and do the final connection. Their name would be on the paperwork. This is what I did when I wired my shed. I worked with a bloke who is licenced, and he told me what to buy and how he wanted it installed. Once I had that all done he came along, did the connections and got it all working. Saved quite a bit just in labour. I was also able to pick up a fair bit of stuff 2nd hand. I have 3 phase and 3 phase fittings a quite expensive if you have to buy them new.
    It would be a bit risky for someone not licenced to do the work because if there was ever a problem that could possibly be traced back to the wiring, then who ever did it could be in deep trouble. Its not so much about safety but having someone to blame if something goes wrong.

    regards
    bollie7
    I still need to know if conduit is required as I don't want to get ripped off on a quote wanting to replace all the wiring in conduit if it is not neccessary.
    I can't hire an electrician untill I have an idea of what is a fair quote and what is not.
    Hence my question Is conduit required by law in an unlined garage in NSW? Or is it ok to clip insulated 3 core wire to the inner wooden frame as it is now?
    The garage was wired like it is when I bought the house so I don't know if that is right or not. You can't be guided by people giving you a quote as they want to make as much money as they can.

  7. #6
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    I think that any wiring that is below 1800mm from the floor, must be in conduit, or something else deemed to be appropriate. This was the case a few years ago, of course you'd have to check in the latest Wiring Rules manual. ( I don't have one.)

  8. #7
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    Default As is

    Generally if you need more of the same, the sparky will give you the tip on this one.

  9. #8
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    If it is a safety thing, for the sake of a couple of dollars . . . GET THE CONDUIT.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazzmate View Post
    If it is a safety thing, for the sake of a couple of dollars . . . GET THE CONDUIT.
    Hi
    I read your question with interest and the first things that jumped out at me when reading your description was the words old and the fitting of extra power points.

    I don't want to pour any cold water over your project but would like to offer a few pointers and pose a few questions.
    First of all you need to find out how this shed was originally supplied. Does it have its own separate fuse or circuit breaker at the main supply board? if not, it will be connected to other power points within the house (not a good idea) but certainly was done and sometimes still is. Also consideration should be given as to existing cable capacity (size of conductors etc.) how many power points already exist, what do you intend to use them for. I assume the regs in NSW are the same as Vic. so any modifications done here are subject to the state of the whole wiring system. If the place is old you may have to have circuit breakers installed along with at least one earth leakage unit (commonly referred to as safety switches). These are a good idea for a workshop anyway.
    As to your original question it is really all about mechanical protection of the wiring. If the cable is well above floor level and out of harms way it is probably ok clipped. This corrugated flexible PVC conduit is very good and easy to use so if in any dought play it safe. Another problem we have in our sheds is shelving attached to walls etc. this promotes the problem of sharp things on shelves poking into cables etc.

    I have just finished fitting out a shed for my son and we had a similar problem. So we had all the wiring installed and are in the process of lining the walls with chip board flooring, as its reasonably priced clips itself together with the plastic tounge and is ideal as a support for all manner of shelf brackets and all hanging stuff, it has also provided good insulation.

    Sorry to ramble so much but play it safe consult a sparky or two as the alternative when things go wrong is unthinkable

    Ray

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray39 View Post
    Hi
    I read your question with interest and the first things that jumped out at me when reading your description was the words old and the fitting of extra power points.

    I don't want to pour any cold water over your project but would like to offer a few pointers and pose a few questions.
    First of all you need to find out how this shed was originally supplied. Does it have its own separate fuse or circuit breaker at the main supply board? if not, it will be connected to other power points within the house (not a good idea) but certainly was done and sometimes still is. Also consideration should be given as to existing cable capacity (size of conductors etc.) how many power points already exist, what do you intend to use them for. I assume the regs in NSW are the same as Vic. so any modifications done here are subject to the state of the whole wiring system. If the place is old you may have to have circuit breakers installed along with at least one earth leakage unit (commonly referred to as safety switches). These are a good idea for a workshop anyway.
    As to your original question it is really all about mechanical protection of the wiring. If the cable is well above floor level and out of harms way it is probably ok clipped. This corrugated flexible PVC conduit is very good and easy to use so if in any dought play it safe. Another problem we have in our sheds is shelving attached to walls etc. this promotes the problem of sharp things on shelves poking into cables etc.

    I have just finished fitting out a shed for my son and we had a similar problem. So we had all the wiring installed and are in the process of lining the walls with chip board flooring, as its reasonably priced clips itself together with the plastic tounge and is ideal as a support for all manner of shelf brackets and all hanging stuff, it has also provided good insulation.

    Sorry to ramble so much but play it safe consult a sparky or two as the alternative when things go wrong is unthinkable

    Ray
    The wiring that is there is ok according to two electricians that have given me quotes but the problem was one was saying it had to be conduted and the other saying it did not.
    Hence my original question.
    The circuit runs off a seperate 16 amp fuse and seperate cable to the garage from one side of a three phase supply board .
    It has two power points now and few light points but I would like a few extra power points and a few extra lights. It will not significantly alter the power drain as I will not be using any more tools than I am using right now. I just want to get rid of a few extension leads off the floor foer more safety and have more convenience not run extra equipment. I can only use one tool at a time anyway.
    The problem is most tradesmen don't want to do small jobs so some of them are always padding up the quote with unecessary stuff to make it worth their while.
    The stupid government regs make the job dearer by forcing you to fit earth leakage to make it safer but if you can't afford that you are stuck with extension leads laying on the floor which is twice as dangerous . Rediculous!
    Its OK for me to use the shed in this dangerous way for the rest of time but as soon as I try to make things safer I am slugged with a cost I cant afford .
    What if the basic wiring is dangerous but an electrician will not touch it , not even to replace a power point unless you fit earth leakage. Absolute rubbish! Regulation gone crazy.
    However I have reached an agreement with an inteligent electrician that can see the stupidity in some of the regulations.

  12. #11
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    Yes it does need to be in conduit, but all cables where likely to be disturbed need to be mechanically protected (i.e inside conduit). There are some exceptions, but witout my rulebook handy, I can't be sure. If you have a safety switch on a circuit, it sometimes means you don't need mechanical protection, again without my rulebook, I can't tell you exactly what they are. Any electrician that does work must ensure that any wiring is up to current standards, therefore if there is no safety switch, they must fit one. As others have said, the additional cost of conduit, and fixings, should be pretty small. Ask the sparky how much conduit they need, and how many saddles, and supply them yourself. I'm sure it's only about $6 fo a 4 metre length, and saddles are pretty cheap too. Just remember you are more likely to hit exposed cables in a workshop/garage, so if your safety is important to you, do the right thing.

  13. #12
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    Whatever you do have an earth leakage device fitted or use one plugged into a power point when using power tools that can cut cords.The orange boxes are cheap on ebay.
    I always use one it may have saved my life twice with cut cords who knows?.

  14. #13
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    Smile Wiring Rules

    To do it properly , tell the electrician that you want a ticket put in to the supply authority when its completed and you want to see a copy of it.get 3 quotes and you will get the job done to regulation.

    Peter[electrician for 40 years]

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