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Thread: Gas Torches Yet Again
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17th October 2013, 09:41 PM #16
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17th October 2013 09:41 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th October 2013, 11:18 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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I don't recall saying that, because I don't have one of those. I have oxy-acetylene gear for brazing and oxy-propane for cutting. Both the Comet 3 type torch setup with propane nozzles. The oxy-propane works fine for cutting, not sure what temperature it gets to for brazing because I've never tried. Haven't actually done any brazing in years though it's on the cards in the near future.
The biggest hassle is the cost of bottle rental. I'd rather use oxy-acetylene for everything as it has the hottest temperature (ok oxy-hydrogen is hotter) but I don't like paying $18/month per bottle for an E cylinder.
PDW
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18th October 2013, 09:28 PM #18
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19th October 2013, 11:48 AM #19
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19th October 2013, 12:15 PM #20
I hadn't thought along the lines of using the furnace burner for brazing, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. I got a bullfinch and it works a treat for brazing small parts, for bigger parts a custom burner might be just the trick.
A few years back I went mad and made a series of normally aspirated propane burners, they were all modified version of the reil style burners, there are plenty of plans on the internet and they are easy to build and tune up. If running in free air you definitely need a flare, so maybe you could design the flare to do some focusing as well.
I've posted this picture before, with details of various burners here...https://www.woodworkforums.com/f267/c...6/#post1396253
The flare is required to stop the flame from blowing itself out, the idea is to reduce the gas velocity to less than that of the flame velocity. When it's inside a furnace the flare is usually not needed..
Swap and Go gas bottles have got to be one the cheapest options around for easy heating
Regards
Ray
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19th October 2013, 12:38 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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19th October 2013, 12:50 PM #22Cba
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> First I want it for domestic plumbing during renovations.
Then you probably want to add one of the cyclone burners. The flame of a cyclone burner wraps itself around the pipe to be heated.
> Which burners/nozzles do you use?
My Promatic came only with the 7.5kW standard burner. Later I bought the 0.7kW pin-point burner for the finer jobs.
There are 20 different burners to suit the promatic handpiece: Sievert AB - Professional tools for soldering and other heating duties
Chris
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20th October 2013, 10:03 PM #23
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20th October 2013, 10:30 PM #24
The site I looked at only had seperate pieces, not kits. I was thinking about starting with the medium cyclone if I went with Sievert.
The Rothenberger is looking better at this point tho. Cheaper of the three by quite a bit and the quoted flame temp of 2200 deg C is interesting. This info came from a pdf file that was sourced from Rothenberger by our local Reece store. Anyone who would like a copy of this document which is 1.05M, just let me know. The price of $206 also was supplied by this store so I can buy it locally from a business that I have bought quite a lot of stuff from since they opened.
A discussion at the Get Together today elicited the information that a lot of plumbers use them and find them quite suitable.
Dean
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20th October 2013, 11:34 PM #25Cba
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Dean, I just downloaded the German Rothenberger catalogue, and what a surprise: Rothenberger is selling the Sievert Promatic torch. It looks absolutely identical, except that the handpiece is red color and bears the Rothenberger logo. They gave it the name "Recolt Handy Piezo System Promatic". Not sure if it is OEM Sievert, or made under license, or maybe the Sievert patent has simply expired? Look here on page 186: http://www.rothenberger.com/uploads/...isstechnik.pdf
Regarding the flame temperature, that is not the whole story. What matters much more for soldering and brazing is the heat output. But 2200C sounds like a bold claim to me for a propane/air mixture torch. Are you maybe looking at a propane/oxygen torch? Have a look here for comparison: Flame temperatures
Chris
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21st October 2013, 08:01 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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I went to the local servo (suburb of Newcastle) on Sat afternoon to get a cylinder and they wanted $35 exchange. Needless to say I didn't get one. I'll have to look around and find a servo that still fills your cylinder.
Masters at Maitland have swap and go for about $24 or $25
bollie7
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21st October 2013, 08:36 AM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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21st October 2013, 02:35 PM #28Regarding the flame temperature, that is not the whole story. What matters much more for soldering and brazing is the heat output
But 2200C sounds like a bold claim to me
for a propane/air mixture torch. Are you maybe looking at a propane/oxygen torch?
Dean
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21st October 2013, 02:55 PM #29
$22 for 8.5 kg compared to $22 for 9kg. Hardly worth worrying about that difference. Thanks for reminding me about the expired bottle bit. I had forgotten. I have 3 bottles and 1 that has expired last year. It still looks perfect. It has been bumping around on the trailer, in the farm ute etc for many weeks lol. I put it on the trailer to take down to the metal scrap pile past the woolshed. I did not have the tailgate up. It fell off but was not noticed, due to lack of light I think. It landed next to the woolshed itself. It was noticed from afar by you know who. I used it to sit on while doing fencing next to woolshed. Back into ute then trailer. Still there.
I just this moment mentioned taking this bottle for swapping to SWMBO and she said you mean the one that has bounced around...... Anyway she also said she had seen that bottles must be within date on a Swap and Go sign at a servo. We have to go into town tonight so I will check. That will make 4 bottles. Getting them tested can be a problem around here. I also have another 1 somewhere but as it is about 40yrs old and looks it I might not bother. Off an old caravan.
Dean
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21st October 2013, 03:19 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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Bunnings do not even look at the expiry date. All Kwik Gas distributors will take any expired gas bottle as a swap (provided it is in reasonable condition).
I believe most others are the same - expired is OK.
They retest them and generally it's only the tap/valve that needs to be replaced.
To get them re-tested yourself is a total rip off and not to be even considered.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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