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14th February 2013, 05:56 PM #16Dave J Guest
A fly cutter should give superior results to a face mill, but you will have no problem running a 50mm face mill in your machine and it will remove metal a lot quicker than a fly cutter.
I Have a few of the CTC face mills and they are only about $150 with 10 inserts, good value for money in my book.
For the spindle bearings you just do them up until there is no play, then install in back in the machine and check the temperature. You should be able to hold your hand on it, if it's cold after 10-15 minutes it's too loose, if you can't touch it because it's too hot they are too tight. As far as I know this is the best way to check the pre load.
This thread might help you out, I know it's not the same as your mill but they are similar. I also know there is article on the internet about your size machine and doing spindle bearing, there may even be a link to it in the thread below. If you cant find it let me know and I will chase it up for you.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ch...e-hm52-126514/
Now the DRO installation, any chance on pictures? It could help out other down the track doing the same.
I placed my scale on the front of the table to save the X scale taking up and Y travel
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/in...0-52-a-115786/
I have just been talking to another member here about a power draw bar, I have had my new air cylinders and impact wrench's for around 3 years and am only just getting around to it now, LOL I am putting one on my vertical and one on the horizontal using linear bearing. I think I only paid around $70 for the rod and bearings for both, so I think it's worth while in the long run.
What design are you going with, manual or full automatic?
Dave
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14th February 2013, 11:11 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Variant22,
I don't want to tell you to eat eggs or insult your intellegence but since you will no doubt want to leave no stone unturned, I will ask the question: Are you sure the spindle is travelling Forward and not in Reverse?
I'm almost embarrised to mention this but what the hell! I recently converted my 45 mill to VFD. The night that I finally mounted the newmotor to the head and wired up the VFD I gave it a run. It was late at night and I was tired and had tunnel vision of how my adapter plate would work and how the new bearings would sound and how the VFD parrameters were set. When I finally got to making chips I was most devistated and disappointed at the amount of vibration and chatter, even for very very modest DOC and feedrates. No amount of adjustment on my U beaut POT speed control would fix it............. You can imagine the simultaneous relief and embarissment when it dawned on me that the motor was running in reverse!
The poor endmill. It never stood a chance
Cheers,
Simon
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15th February 2013, 09:29 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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15th February 2013, 10:34 AM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jun 2011
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- Australia east coast
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That's because the Tormach *has* no power. Their fly cutter must have a cutting edge geometry to do what it can to compensate for this. You must pay for this in either shorter life of the cutting edge or increased machining time - shallower DOC or slower feed. There's no free lunch.
TCT tooling is used because it works, provided you have the HP to drive it. A Tormach doesn't so they have to do what they can. Trying to extrapolate the workaround for a toy machine to a bigger one is simply wrong. Given the results you're getting, either using the fly cutter is not correct or something is wrong elsewhere. I do know that using a fly cutter is going to hammer your bearings. I can run a 50mm 3 tooth TCT face mill on my 3/4HP B/port motor, at 0.100 DOC, fast enough to have blue chips and a shiny surface. R8 taper. As soon as the cutting edges get blunt, power needed goes way up and the cutter starts hammering. I can run a single point fly cutter on my horizontal mill at around 40 rpm, 6" sweep, .040" DOC and slow feed to get nicely finished surfaces on hot rolled angle iron. The baby horizontal mill has a very rigid spindle ad I use a hand-ground & honed HSS toolbit in the cutter body not carbide. Fly cutters need a rigid setup, to run fairly slowly and to enter the work at as shallow an angle as possible to minimise the shock loads.
I'm not going to engage in an endless debate over it. Believe what you wish. How I do it works.
PDW
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