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Thread: Gear ratios
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4th June 2012, 10:52 PM #16
pics
Michael
The damage is sad
it may be beyond help
MIKE
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5th June 2012, 08:03 AM #17Philomath in training
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It's possible that the teeth could be build up and then filed/ machined back, but you've got a continuous array of teeth, so it will still give you un-interupted feed. A skilled welder might be able to braze up the tips of the damaged teeth if you really wanted full teeth, but as we were saying in another thread for a feed gear it's not taking full load, so is probably not necessary.
I am relieved though as I thought from your earlier description it was a boat anchor. That one looks usable.
Michael
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5th June 2012, 11:48 AM #18
teeth
Thanks for advice
Do you think it would be possible, to build up the gouged teeth with gear bronze , mount this gear in the Mill Drill , and with a 14.5 gear cutter , reprofile the teeth ?
Mike
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5th June 2012, 12:11 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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mike you can get cast iron welding wire or rods fro BOC BOC - Welding electrodes rods wire consumables supplies for all welding purposes assuming it is cast iron ?
I haven't used it myself but noticed a post from aametalmaster somewhere about it, when ever I have something difficult like cast iron or cast steel I warm it up and use stainless rods.
If you have the right cutter welding the teeth would be a good option.
Does the other gears that mesh with that gear only mesh halfway ? It's weird how the damage is only on one side because that is not a sliding gear, if the gear is only used on one side can it be turned around ?
john
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5th June 2012, 12:22 PM #20
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5th June 2012, 12:41 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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I rarely have used bronze for welding anything, I just don't like it and don't think it is strong enough, others will disagree so thats just me. You can weld just about anything with a stainless arc rod, stainless to steel, steel or stainless steel to cast iron or cast iron to cast iron, preheat with cast iron is the trick, cast iron can also be oxy welded, here is a PDF for welding consumables for cast iron BOC - Cast Iron
Is the gear cast iron or cast steel ?
john
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5th June 2012, 11:27 PM #22New Member
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dont weld with anything, will be a big disaster! end up with a distorted gear with hard spots that you can not file or machine! would need to grind it.
The old way was to screw in studs and file or machine that into shape.
if you insist you could braze build up the teath
for hobby use? use it the way it is and keep a tight mesh
if making parts for a bulldozer or a fulltime pro buy a new gear
Jake
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7th June 2012, 01:44 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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There's more than half the tooth width left on each of the broken ones. As all it does it go round and round under very light load, I'd just use it carefully and get on with other problems. Not like it's missing any complete teeth, it'll work fine.
What's the DP of the gear?
PDW
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7th June 2012, 01:49 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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A bronze weld is stronger than the cast iron and more ductile. This is not opinion so it's not a matter of agreeing or disagreeing.
When I did my welding tickets we brazed a lot of CI together and built up teeth as this was standard practice. We also oxy-welded CI and this is a far, far more tricky thing to do, needing extensive pre-heat and post-heat. Given a choice I would never weld CI regardless of technique if I could braze it.
PDW
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7th June 2012, 05:29 PM #25
bronze
Hi
I will give the bronze a try
I can buy the correct grade bronze rods in town . I can use the neighbours oxy set , with payment for the gas of course
I printed out the imperial gear change tables at the library . That software is worth it's weigh in gold . A big to Vernon .
I noticed that with the 127 gear in position C the % error can be as low as nil . But many other gear combinations are listed without the 127 gear, with almost nil error , eg 1-2 thou of error
Mike
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