Thread: Where the Giant left his Coffee Cup

I couldn't help my self....scraper & wire brushing followed by a scotchbrite pad.



Don't know what left those rings but their there for good it looks. It's almost like it has been etched or affected the cast iron in some way.

I agee with you leaving the original marks,wilh the holes as they are will that affect the cut quality?
It could be a challenge to fill the holes so the repair does not look worse that just a bit of old age.
The one you cleaned up does't look too bad.
Good luck

Would a 4lt paint tin possibly cause some sort of galvanic reaction between the tin and the cast iron?? The ring left a mark in the cast surface not just on it.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Would a 4lt paint tin possibly cause some sort of galvanic reaction between the tin and the cast iron?? The ring left a mark in the cast surface not just on it.

It could have been caused by leaks from anything in a can. I don't think it would be caused by the tin. Galvanic Corrosion occurs between different metals. I think it is most likely from the contents of a tin.

Can you feel the marks? It has certainly come up better. I don't think coffee would do that.

Dean

There was reside on the top orginally but that scrapped off, what is left is smooth or so to the touch. It's almost like the metal is bleached.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

There was reside on the top orginally but that scrapped off, what is left is smooth or so to the touch. It's almost like the metal is bleached.

Just a bit of character then. That is good.

Dean

Hi,
A galvanized bucket or watering can could give you the different metals.
Regards

Originally Posted by DSEL74

There was reside on the top orginally but that scrapped off, what is left is smooth or so to the touch. It's almost like the metal is bleached.

It may be the stuff under the residue has not oxidised as much as the surrounding metal. Now that it is clean it may be worth just leaving it for a few months and see if it darkens up naturally.

Michael

Hi DSEL74,
I wood use some good 240 Grit Sandpaper around a wooden Block, with say a bit of Kero, but to make sure you went Length Ways & not across the bed.
Sandpaper never hurt any Steel, so it may work.

Gee I can hear the grumbles from here.

Personally I would leave it but if you are determined you might give this a go.

Clean both tables as throughly, kero then metho, to get the oil off and then paint the tables with a very thin coating of dilute vinegar. I would be prepared to use dilute HCl as this will speed things up but I wouldn't. recommend others do this. Plain water would also work but it would be slower.

Watch it carefully Once it gets a thin even orange patina all over it I would then remove the rust with steel wool and kero.

This will generate a bright grey finish but it will eventually even up the oxidation across the table and it won't remove the milling marks. It might need to be done a couple of times to get rid of the marks.

Maybe practice on a bit of cast iron first, maybe try water first..

This is the 16" jointer at the milling yard when I first got it.
It looks way worse that it as as all the milling marks were still clearly visible on the tables
All I did with this was use a wire brush on an angle grinder and while it gave a swirling polished finish on it it did not remove the milling marks on the table.
Then I gave it a good coating of trad wax.


Sorry no close ups - this is the closest photo I have after being de-rusted.


And here is the all ally guard I made for it from an auto door closer - this works a treat.
The oregon guard that it came with is next to it.


Im going to have to repeat the whole derusting process because it was left outside for a few months during the big milling yard move of 2013!

Bob, That sounds like going three steps backwards to come one forward… It bugs me now probably because it is new and in 6mths I'll never even notice it. Unless there is a relatively quick and easy fix, probably best to leave it alone.

How many blades in your cutter head??

This machine was supposed to have a a very well regarded 4 blade round safety head for some reason it has been changed out for a two blade head which I'm quite disappointed to find. Again not some thing I going to have to live with as I can't afford to change it. Maybe one day those shelix heads will become cheap.

Originally Posted by DSEL74

Bob, That sounds like going three steps backwards to come one forward…

Correct. This is also how old school metal bluing works - lightly rust it, convert red to black oxide and wire brush back the residue, repeat multiple times. After a couple of repeats the shine becomes a matt grey which gets darker and darker until it becomes black.

It bugs me now probably because it is new and in 6mths I'll never even notice it. Unless there is a relatively quick and easy fix, probably best to leave it alone.

Yep that's what I would do.

How many blades in your cutter head??

3

The cutter is a round clam shell design, square centre block with rounded segment so on the outside. So I will be on the lookout to change it with something affordable. It isn't the original head which was a 4 blade much safer design.





Upper part of second top done.

something like CLR might take the staining out or bleach (if thats the word) the other making it look more uniform?