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1st August 2014, 11:21 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Some more pics...
20140801_092605.jpg20140801_092511.jpg
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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1st August 2014 11:21 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st August 2014, 11:34 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
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And last one.
This shows the belt tensioning lever. It goes inside and slides a fork (from memory?) back and forth that acts on two 3/4" dowels that attaches to the motor mount. This moves the motor back and forth to tension the belt.
Hope this helps?
20140801_101056-2.jpg
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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1st August 2014, 12:13 PM #18Senior Member
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My drill press is the same. when I purchased it, I had the choice of a tilting table or fixed one. An old fitter from the Victorian Railways workshops told me not to touch the tilt table one. If I did he said to align it properly and weld it so it couldn't move.
His comment was that I would never need the tilt table, and it was a bugger to get exactly trued up, and stay that way.
You have a machine that should be easy to restore.
Regards,
John.
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1st August 2014, 03:00 PM #19Mechanical Butcher
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- Oct 2004
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Good idea to have a mini-forum on drill presses.
I had a couple of minor mods on my old Taiwan drill press, that I could contribute.
That's a neat counterweight idea. I can't use it on my current drill, as it has a solid column rather than a tube.
I noticed a somewhat similar solution on the Sieg X3 mini-mill, that had a gas strut to help lift it.
Maybe a occy-strap attached to the ceiling could work too.
Jordan
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1st August 2014, 08:46 PM #20
Easy fix,
Use an external tube - a piece of PVC tube perhaps- the counter weight needs to fit inside or even no tube at all ,if you are not bothered by the CW swinging abou.
In terms of difficulty, it even easier than going through the hollow column as rollers/pulleys can be attached easier to arrange locations.
The counter weight needs to be the weight of the table and table arm support.
Getting the arm off might be a pain, but the work around might be a tube/pipe with an end base welded in it and gradually fill it with weight ( sinkers or small work shop scrap until the weight is reached)
If you have no lathe those little rollers in the bottom of sliding screen doors might do the the trick as pulleys. The wire cable and clamps are not too hard to get.
Grahame
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1st August 2014, 09:48 PM #21
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1st August 2014, 10:48 PM #22Senior Member
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- May 2012
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- Kimberley, West Australia
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12 speed drill.
Bought one of these in the late '70's I think, was definitely branded Taiwan, and apart from replacing plastic knobs several times, it ran without fault in my earthmoving shopfor many years until I scored a larger geared head machine. Lost count of the number of 20mm holes it drilled in 70mm excavator bucket pins, and similar jobs. New owner has it running diamond core bits on decorative stonework items.
My intermediate pulley mount had a pair of stiff compression springs under the bolt heads, and allowed it to slide and self adjust. Belt tension lever and locks were as in Simonl's picture. The bolt and fastener firms sell cup shaped spring disc washers (called Schnoor discs) which would work well on those pulley mount bolts. Best type of belt for small pulleys is the cog belt design, Gates etc, as they grip a whole lot better without deforming and pulley wear. They will take extra tension and let you drill some serious metal. Should be good for a lot more years now. Regards,
Combustor.Old iron in the Outback, Kimberley WA.
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2nd August 2014, 11:02 AM #23
Thanks for the pictures and comments guys. Mine is definitely different to SimonL's, different idler pulley setup, belt tensioner and my post base is longer and chunkier. Things are moving along, the spindle, quill and morse taper are all cleaned up regreased and back together and I am off to find some new paint today. New ball knobs and rack handle on order and I will remake all the arms and thread to 10mm so get rid of the worn 3/8 holes.
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4th August 2014, 12:29 AM #24
Threw a lick of paint on it yesterday and back together today. I still need to bolt it down and do a belt tensioner, not sure whether I will just go with the original style or have a bash at a quick change type. Also have to make three new arms, a rack collar and oil blacken and refit the table lock offs. Not sure when my new rack handle and ball knobs will arrive but for now it is all together and operating.
This has been a really worthwhile rebuild, quick and easy, if anyone is thinking of doing theirs I would recommend it. Before and after photos.
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4th August 2014, 09:59 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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does this count as an easy riser?
20140804_082302[1].jpg
just hope youngest son doesnt get a flat...lol...but it does work well...anything to make lifting the table easy
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4th August 2014, 10:00 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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4th August 2014, 10:50 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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Good work!
So far I have resisted the urge to repaint mine. But I would be be interested in perhaps fixing the quill slop. There is a grub screw on the side to minimise this (or at least that what I think it's for) but there is only so much it can do. I estimate there to be about 5 thou of slop, as in the quill is about 5 thou smaller than the hole it slides in. I assume the only fix is to create a brass/bronze sleeve and then turn down the quill? I'm not prepared to go that far just yet for a bench drill.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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8th August 2014, 10:12 PM #28
Few more finishing touches, oil blackened the lock off levers for the table and made three new arms. The arms are 10mm rod rescued from a mower axle and are 70mm longer than the original, the additional length and thickness definitely feels better. Tapped out the old 3/8 threads to M10 and all scewed together nicely. Still awaiting my ball knobs.
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9th August 2014, 12:11 PM #29
I suppose when you have not got an easy riser it will do
I use exactly the same thing when I do larger diameter drilling as the table tends to deflect under a load, which is one of the unit's few shortcomings.
A question for those of you with the same model/genre drill press.
The beveled face of the spindle were the 3 drill press arms screw into. On my unit the threaded area is not solid for the depth of the female threads.
In fact the female threaded area is only 1 or 2 threads deep. Are there other examples out there, like this?
It makes for the handles/arms propensity to regularly fall out of the female thread and wobble as they can't be tightened up and stay tightened up.
I am thinking of a disassembly of same and replacing the boss (think that what it is called?) with something that has some more "meat" in it.
Is there is a better way to achieve this ?
Also to turn some spoofy brass knobs for it, probably making them the most valuable part of the machine.
Grahame
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9th August 2014, 01:44 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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