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Thread: Graziano SAG 180
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3rd June 2011, 10:23 PM #46SENIOR MEMBER
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With a 2 pole drive motor; my TOS screams like a banshee in the higher backgears (straight cut). Kick it up to the next (lowest) gear in direct drive and it quietens down considerably; easily tolerated.
I changed to a 4 pole motor to overcome power drop on startup and the gear whine is tolerable throughout the range. Still gives me 1450 rpm top end.
Ken
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3rd June 2011 10:23 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th June 2011, 01:49 PM #47Distracted Member
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Hunch, I haven't noticed any spare holes but will look more carefully. None of the pics I've seen of this model show front way covers. But it's a good idea. Might see what I can knock up.
I'm thinking more about this idea. But I really want at least 8". Any suggestions for where to get 8x8 hardwood? Might be hard to find. 8x6 could work. Would any hardwood do? I'm thinking of making it permanent so don't want to stack. Is that a bad idea? I guess it wouldn't be as stable as concrete. But the machine has leveling screws so it's not hard to tweak it seasonally. I'd put steel plates under the screws so they didn't dig in. I'm leaning away from concrete because I expect to be moving things around periodically.
I'm now officially comfortable and relaxed about the headstock noise. I listened again with the top off and it's clearly coming form the gear cluster in the lower left of the box. Plus almost everyone says it's normal. Guess I was expecting problems. Bit hard to believe I might have actually got away with it.
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4th June 2011, 10:06 PM #48Distracted Member
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Hunch, I think you're right. There are two rows of holes that look M5-ish that are plugged with, I guess broken screws. And I found a pic of one with the front covers.
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4th June 2011, 10:25 PM #49GOLD MEMBER
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Bryan,
What screws are you and Hunch talking about?
Stuart
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4th June 2011, 10:35 PM #50Distracted Member
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4th June 2011, 10:39 PM #51GOLD MEMBER
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Bryan,
Yes I saw that. But I can't see what Hunch is talking about.
Can you arrow themin the picture?
Thanks
Stuart
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4th June 2011, 10:43 PM #52Dave J Guest
Hi Stuart,
They hold the covers on over the built in gap.
Dave
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4th June 2011, 10:52 PM #53Distracted Member
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Sorry I'm not clever enough to edit images. Not with the tools I've got anyway. Compare the front of the bed on the green machine to mine.
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4th June 2011, 11:13 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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I had been looking.
But I've worked it out.
Here is an arrow for free (I just use paint)
Stuart
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4th June 2011, 11:16 PM #55Dave J Guest
You can see the 4 broken ones in the third picture down in this post.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/gr...ml#post1327142
Dave
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5th June 2011, 09:40 AM #56Senior Member
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If the previous users have been considerate, the "broken" screws might just be socket head hydraulic plugs with luck.
If you want an idea of what they might look like, someone's conveniently posted little brother's manual recently - page 48....
Graziano Sag 12 Manual
I'm currently going through a large Graz at the moment, which is missing it's covers too, worse, the plastic wipers are cactus as well. Going by clearance, should be able to fold up some 3mm aluminium sheet to a reasonable facsimile - on the one here anyhow.
Don't know enough about your particular version, other than having a brief run of a mate's I mentioned previously, but this mob in Poland might be useful
About company - zwmix.
I've found there are some rather large mark-ups, much more than usual...try 500%, on some things I've tried to source locally. Being a rude bastard by nature, probably should mention the name's Bill too.
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5th June 2011, 07:14 PM #57Distracted Member
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Bill, what sort of material will you use for the soft bit? I'm interested because mine are stuffed as well. Mine have plastic inserts with a sort of triangular cross section, with a flange. (Should have taken a pic while I had them off.) Would be very tricky to cut. Sounds like yours may be different. And no such luck on the cover screws I'm afraid. To break them all must have been deliberate bastardry. Not to worry, I have a plan.
Stuart, the feed stops don't work for threading unfortunately. How it works is beautifully simple though. The stop shaft just pushes a fork onto a simple clutch on the feed shaft. How easy it is to set accurately remains to be seen. I'm imagining a bit of trial and error. May have been omitted from the leadscrew since more torque is needed there I think.
Speaking of which I'm surprised and disappointed to discover all the leadscrews are imperial. For screwcutting it doesn't matter since you can get all common threads from the levers. You just flip one lever from imperial to metric . But the cross slide, compound and tailstock all have 5 TPI screws. The last two are graduated in a way that makes sense, but the cross slide has four hundred graduations - I kid you not - and is numbered in tens up to 390. This makes it very crowded and means you have to halve the reading to get thous! There may be a DRO in my future...
(Poor pic taken at inspection)
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5th June 2011, 08:03 PM #58GOLD MEMBER
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Bryan,
The stops would have to open the half nuts to work on threading(was just wondering)
390? or 390+10=400? for one complete turn?
Thats how metric lathe are normally done. Its the amount you cut off the dia. Say you want to take 0.020" off the dia. You move the cross slide 20 it only moves 0.010" but will turn 0.020" off the dia. Make sense?
Stuart
p.s. talking about way wipers. Has anyone seen anything about felt V plastic?
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5th June 2011, 08:12 PM #59Distracted Member
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Stuart, yes it just dawned on me in the shower. I'd heard of that but not seen it. Still should have twigged though.
Stopping the leadscrew from turning would have the same effect as opening the nuts I think. That's what it does - stops the feed shaft.
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5th June 2011, 08:17 PM #60GOLD MEMBER
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I hadn't heard of dials marked that way on an imp lathe, I thought it was a "metric lathe" thing. But then I havent seen that many imp lathes.
Oh so the clutch is on the lathe not the carriage?
Stuart
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