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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    toowoomba
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    Default face grove turning or other method?

    Hi
    I want to try and make a alternator pulley however it needs a groove (not really a good description) cut around the mounting shaft undercutting the pulley groves. the faces to be cut are indicated by the red line in the attachment.

    I did a google search and found trepan tool references and one tool HSS shape for a basic face groove cutter but the holders are to bulky for the geometry.

    is there another way to do the shape instead of a face grooving turning tool?




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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Lower Lakes SA
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    Default

    I guess you could use a vertical mill and a rotary table. I don't have a mill so I would turn it. You just grind the tool to suit the job.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    2,500

    Default tool

    I would rough it out with a round nose tool , then finish it with a parting off tool . The tool you have drawn would work OK as well , but it might have a tendency to dig in with heavy cuts ..Doesn't look a very difficult job . MIKE PS Why not use a boring bar ?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    The Trepanning tool would be you better option ,depending on the depth of the groove you could just use a solid piece of HSS upto about 1/2" 12mm,just grind the side clearance to suit the inner and outer diameters.
    If you sharpen the cutting edges correctly you can use the one tool to do the whole opperation.

  6. #5
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    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    I would rough it out with a round nose tool , then finish it with a parting off tool . The tool you have drawn would work OK as well , but it might have a tendency to dig in with heavy cuts ..Doesn't look a very difficult job . MIKE PS Why not use a boring bar ?
    Because a boring bar isn't usually designed for plunge cutting. And a parting tool isn't designed for curves. A trepanning tool is what is needed. It's like a parting tool but curved.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Being as lazy as I am when it comes to grinding tools I'd likely turn it out with some sort of boring bar. Turning the inside of the large diameter as per normal and turning the outside of the small diameter in reverse. Of course this wouldn't be all that fast but if its a one off and you have a cam-loc spindle, you could give it a go.

    Stuart

  8. #7
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    Jun 2007
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    sydney
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    Default

    What part of the job does the spindle concern.

  9. #8
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    HI PC,
    I didnt think it was the done thing to turn in reverse with a threaded spindle(but then I dont have one so I wouldnt really know)

    Stuart

  10. #9
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    Default

    As long a you werent stupid about it it is fine.
    Never thought of doing this job in reverse,trepanning tool first thought and easiest,rather than boring,but just use the one bar with two tools.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    As long a you werent stupid about it it is fine.
    Fair enough
    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Never thought of doing this job in reverse,trepanning tool first thought and easiest,rather than boring,but just use the one bar with two tools.
    Well you'd only be doing half of it in reverse. By using reverse instead of two tools you dont have to reset the tool depth.

    But yes once you have a trepanning tool ot would go faster.

    Stuart

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
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    3,149

    Default

    Landslide, the tool you've drawn there is probably close to best for the job. While the idea of using a boring bar would work, boring bars that need a hole under 10mm are not common and looking at your drawing, the groove you want is 10 to 15mm wide. You haven't stated a depth but if we assume 10 to 15mm then you should be fine.
    A parting tool would probably be too wide to cut properly - the OD of the recess is around 50mm so that takes us back to the trepanning style tool. I think what you've drawn is a good approximation to one.
    The only comment I'd make is that because of the width of the tool you will need to feed slowly and keep speeds lower than normal so that you don't get too much chatter. Probably a series of plunges and then a finishing cut across to avoid too much side load on the tool. But then if you have thought about it enough to work out the right sort of tool, you've probably also thought about how best to use it too.

    Michael

  13. #12
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    Default

    Going by the drawing it appears the depths are 3 and 20mm.

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