Thread: Hafco 3-in-1 Pressbrake, Guillotine & Rolls 300 x 1mm

We used to mark the sheets with left- and right-hand snips but only a ~10mm nick. On a large guillotine, the fixed blade is in front of the moving blade, so you push the sheet into the guillo then pull back and the two nicks would catch on the back of the blade. If your nick wasn't perfectly parallel, you would end up with a little spike left behind to catch on your trousers, or your hand. DAMHIK

http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/files/TB-F2.pdf

http://www.jrmachinery.com/Documents...ndamentals.pdf

lots of people have the misconception that because a non-ferous metal is "softer" than steel it will be easier to cut.

To start with the 1.2 mm brass is 20% thicker than the mild steel spec and 20% over the capaity of the machine....that is not a small portion..particularly in a machine where the spec's may be ...um...generous.

ALL of the nonferous materials have little quirks that can make them harder to work than steel in the same situation.

A lot of the time it is the "softness" that makes non-ferous hard to cut.

Brass can be a real bastard and its working properties can vary depending on composition.

While brass may have a reputation of being softer and weaker than steel.....it may be a lot less so than imagined.

Of course like most non-ferous sharpness and accuracy in cutting devices pays, bluntness, inaccuracy in edge alignment, deflection in the tool all result in problems cutting brass.

A tool that is sharp, accurate and rigid enough to achieve areasonably clean and efficient cut in mild steel, may not cut clean enough in brass to do so efficiently...that is before you argue about edge geometry.

I was taught that if I wanted to do good work in brass, tools should be put aside for work on brass alone from new.....in particular files....because brass will not tolerate toold that are just a bit off.

cheers

A friend of mine has one of those 3 in 1 tools and he has used it extensively for cutting and forming rust repair panels for cars. The specs as listed are definitely at the upper range of their capabilities, but it performs quite well for what it is.
As Soundman posted, many alloys although perceived as a softer option will astound you as to their mechanical properties.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wodonga/miscellaneous-goods/hafco-metal-master-bench-mounted-folder-guillotine-and-roller/1058447068


really keen on getting some rollers for the studio, would be so useful..

does this look sh.t? well i know it's pretty basic but would i even bother enquiring?


Interesting stuff. My daughter sent me the above question last week. She would want to use it on brass, copper and silver. I had to tell her I had no idea. I'll send her a link to this thread.

Thanks
Bob

Bob,
She has got taste - It is blue

Originally Posted by rodm

Bob,
She has got taste - It is blue

Ha ha. Great hearing from you young Rod.

BT

Originally Posted by Karl Robbers

A friend of mine has one of those 3 in 1 tools and he has used it extensively for cutting and forming rust repair panels for cars. The specs as listed are definitely at the upper range of their capabilities, but it performs quite well for what it is.
As Soundman posted, many alloys although perceived as a softer option will astound you as to their mechanical properties.

USA Company sells the same unit. Asked them the machine shears rating for brass plate. Replied 18 gauge. 1.02mm.

My experience with small-shop sized metal forming tools has taught me that their makers are usually very optimistic as to rated capacities, especially when working materials thicker than 20 ga.
I bit the bullet and bought a Beverley shear - no regrets.

Hi all. Finally finished working on the 4 box chamfer planes. All tested for performance and passed with flying colors.

Kryn. send me a pm if your still interested.

Stewie;