Thread: Hafco 960b querys.

Lather

The rough machining in the rear of the spindle bore is the same on mine, as you say it doesn't really matter much.

The paint marks on the gear change knobs is the same on my lathe.

The primary difference is the paint quality on the tin work and the swarf tray. Mine is much better than that and entirely blemish free. The paint quality on mine is very good and has survived cutting oil and other noxious substances, unlike the paint on my older chinese 320 which rubbed off at the first touch of oil.

Mine has no dents in any of the castings so I can't comment as to whether they are normal or not.

Originally Posted by Bryan

But you don't buy a Daewoo and expect a Benz.

With all due respect, the 960 may not be a Benz but neither is it marketed as a Daewoo. As a Taiwanese lathe that's been around for 20+ years it's more like a HiLux. Nothing flashy but solid & dependable.

Fair enough. Sometimes it comes down to what you're prepared to pursue.

Originally Posted by Bryan

Fair enough. Sometimes it comes down to what you're prepared to pursue.

Too true, I think the issue here is that Lather has just bought his first lathe and has nothing to compare it with so we need to provide guidance and reassurance.

Gavin, your right.

not too worried about the paintwork, as it will most likely get damaged over time.
If you read some of my previous posts the majority was about info regarding installation - setup e.t.c.

what worried me in the first place was the fact that there was metal particles and the (SWARF) in the gearbox, it this reason and only this reason that made me start to think their could be something wrong.
WHO WOULDN'T
specifically purchased a Taiwanese lathe, after reading some of the stories of sand/ metal and badly formed gears in the chinese gearboxes.
My opinion now, is that the manufacturing conditions may be similar.

Once the particles were cleaned out, had thought it was lucky to check it, felt satisfied about the lathes condition, there were no more major problems until needing to fit the 4 jaw.
now as a newby, i wouldnt have a clue why there were 4 pre threaded holes.
Due to my thoughts and other persons helpful comments, including the different service in other states, did i start to feel a little uneasy about the lathe again.
had never really thought the lathe was second hand, (this came about due to the backing plates, and that it may have been machined for another chuck, that had been used), combine this with other probs like paint that could look as if it was painted over steel shavings, a broken pallet and the dent plus touch-up paint, one could start to think that there may have been a problem of it either being used, or my main thought,-being dropped.

the ways and bare steel surfaces look in top condition, if used, im sure there would be marks.

phoned melbourne, they machine and thread the holes during pre inspection, there are no holes on the new plate.
this was supposed to be mentioned to me during purchase,
if this was the case ,the new posts and further assumptions about the lathe wouldn't exist.
would have asked about other options of solving the plate problem, more convenient to swap for a direct mount and pay the difference during the purchase.

perhaps due to this, they may perform the task during pre inspection, maybe even check the box.

This has all been cleared up, and will be swapping for a direct mount for a small cost.
apparently there was a problem with the plates a year ago, which has been solved on the newer lathes.
had discussed about the other problems, best i can do is to check the box each month for particles, if its anywhere near what it had, will be having it checked, if its fine, doubt it was dropped.

cheers.

Good news about the direct mount chuck, it's a lot better than the backplate version

The 6mm tapped holes at the back of the carriage make a good place to bolt additions, such as coolant hoses, lights etc. In my case I used them to mount my "poor man's DRO" In this case a dial indicator which bears on the compound as the cross slide is moved
Attachment 145678

This goes with a long travel dial indicator on a clamp on the ways which gives me my saddle movement.
Attachment 145676

On your other thread about tooling you were discussing the tangential toolholder. Here's mine in situ on the 960. Adjusting the centre height is a cinch.
Attachment 145677

Cheers - Gavin

Originally Posted by lather

specifically purchased a Taiwanese lathe, after reading some of the stories of sand/ metal and badly formed gears in the Chinese gearboxes.
My opinion now, is that the manufacturing conditions may be similar.
cheers.

Hi, you are probably right there, from what I have been reading, it seems the Taiwanese are getting slack and the Chinese are getting better in the lathes.

It only takes a few people to say that sand comes in the gear box of Chinese lathes and everyone thinks they all do.
When I bought my Chinese lathe through Gasweld, I picked it up strait out of the warehouse, where they had about 8 in stock fully sealed and unchecked by them.
I had to bust open the timber and ply shipping box with a crow bar when I got it home. It come ready to run with oil in the gearbox's and saddle. Both chucks were mounted to the back plates by the manufacturer. After going through it, I found no sand in it anywhere, (unlike my mill). The gear box had a thick coat of paint on the inside to seal the casting. I get about one drop of oil a month from under the saddle gear box, but other than that no oil leaks at all.
I have only had 2 problems with it, 1 was when I opened the box the motor had a dent in in the fan housing and wouldn't turn on, this must have been done at the factory before shipping. Within 3 days a service bloke was out to replace it under warranty no questions asked. and the other was the cross slide screw varied in pitch in one spot. It had me scratching my head for a while until I found the cause after fitting the DRO. If I had of picked up on screw earlier while it was in warranty they would have replaced it as well. Very good people to deal with (Newcastle branch) if anyone is thinking of using them.

Dave

Gavin,
Its good to know about the threads on the side of the carriage, can now attach the coolant hose there, had made plastic trays to cover the slides to reduce the amount of swarf getting on the beds, which sat over the slides top bolts previously used to hold the hose.
It will probably be a long time before i start attaching indicators, will spend some time learning, especially about threads, its way over my head at the moment, hope it gets clearer when testing on scrap.

I had noticed that there was swarf in my headstock too when I peered in the oil filler hole.

I have taken the lid off today. There was a small curl of swarf in the channel that looked like it had come from the oil filler threads. The channel also had some finer material- as you say- like the debris seen on a old car oil change. There was very little of it 'tho and it was caught in little sumps in the channel just near the bearings.

I was glad to see the high speed gear fully engage- the lever arrow doesnt quite point to "H"- obviously the sticker on the knob is not quite in the right possie.

I have none of the dings and paint issues

I got the direct mount 4 jaw supplied without asking (but havent had it on yet)

I havent tried the belt swap to low speed yet - looks like i will have to remove the 120/127 gear to do it. The speeds in H have suited me so far (which isnt very far!)
.

I am keenly awaiting my parcel with the qctp (AXA type) - as per discussion in that thread

Originally Posted by rfurzer

I havent tried the belt swap to low speed yet - looks like i will have to remove the 120/127 gear to do it. The speeds in H have suited me so far (which isnt very far!)

You'll want to run in low speed once you start threading, especially if you thread up to a shoulder......I run mine in low range all the time as I do a lot of threading and parting off. You definitely need to take the 127/120 gear off to change belt positions. When you change the belt position you may well have to remove a couple of the bolts holding the left end of the splashback to allow it move up temporarily to allow motor clearance while you thread the belt over the pulley sheaves. The stock belt is very short and doesn't give much room to move - it pays to take it to a belt place and get one slightly longer. Be careful it's not too long or the motor will drop down so far the end cover won't fit back on.

Originally Posted by rfurzer

I am keenly awaiting my parcel with the qctp (AXA type) - as per discussion in that thread

So are we.....

You guys will like those tool posts. Just remember that you don't need to white knuckle the set screws to hold the bit in place. The Chinese fasteners are pretty soft, but they are OK if used correctly.

My wife has just made me a cover to fit the lathe- very spiffy and will keep shed muck off the machine.

Highly recommended

Originally Posted by rfurzer

My wife has just made me a cover to fit the lathe- very spiffy and will keep shed muck off the machine.

Highly recommended

So did mine, keeps the welding and grinding junk off the machine. She did draw the line when I asked her to wash it when it got oily though - no sense of humour sometimes