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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    nowra
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    Default hafco mill collant setup help

    i have an old hafco hm 32 milling machine and want to put a coolant pump on it. but the bed doesn't have any holes to drain the coolant is there one that i am not seeing or can i drill on without damaging any thing.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    64
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    3,566

    Default

    Drill a hole in the table at the rear of one or both of the pockets.

    Would suggest that you go at least 3/8"BSP or 1/2"BSP.

    You dont particularly want the Whole diameter of the hole visable.

    If the hole comes into the pocket cleanly you will allways have cutting oil in the pockets.

    If the hole is slightly bellow the bottom of the pocket the cutting fluid will dran more easily
    .
    Would advise to drill first with a 1/4" drill and sneak up on the tapping drill size.

    If you drill much smaller than 3/8" or 1/2" the fluid will back up on itself and virtually stop draining.

    It wouldnt particularly matter if your thread does not go into the table body the recognised depth.

    All you need to be able to get is a couple of threads started of your tail or what ever type of drain fitting you are useing.

    You can allways use a bit of thread tape to stop any leaks.

    When you have drilled your hole if the coolant dosent flow to well,use a file or rotary bur to give the hole a bit of a lead from the pocket.

    Another thing to do if you like is to get hold of a magnet or piece of magnet about the width of the pocket or there abouts.

    Place the magnet near to the drain hole,it will catch a lot of the smaller particals be fore they run back to your sump.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Magill, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,537

    Default

    Clay is bang on.

    Something I can advise is to use a centre punch to put a spot on the side of the table to get you started in the right spot. You can drill a little low and even if you are a bit low then put in a second hole inside the table going down to the first hole. You can use a Dremel to take the corners off and tidy it up, although a round file will work.

    Studley
    Aussie Hardwood Number One

  5. #4
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    These couple of the pictures should show you what you need to do. I took them when I pulled down my HM52 before christmas.The thread is 1/2"BSP and there are two 5mm theads to hold the mesh sreen.
    Dont you just love the extra misplaced holes for the mesh screen on this (well-built entry level turret mill) with it's (Precision milling table)
    Dave

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    165

    Default

    I take your references to the hare and forbes website description as "taking th episs" a little.
    In all honesty dave, with the troubles you had with runout, maybe you should have purchased the BM-40V (415v variable speed) unit or BM-30A (240v step pulley).
    For the price of the HM-52 machine, it really is entry level price and build for a turret mill. Some of the things you found shouldnt have been, all the same.

    Enough of the hijack, the pics you show for the coolant return in the table are exactly what welder needs to do, without the extra 5mm threaded holes (lets call them balancing holes ). Only other thingI could suggest, if possible to do, is make a chip tray out of sheetmetal and fit up under the machine ( from what I know HM-32 previously known as HM-30 is a belt driven mill drill that mounts onto stand or bench top) to catch the coolant that will flick off the job, also helps to catch swarf.
    If the coolant tank and pump are mounted below this it can gravity feed back to the tank.

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