Thread: Hand Cranks, Gear Modules and Compound Trains

http://www.gearotic.com/

Thanks RC. That looks great.

Not sure that module (or DP) is directly related to the use that a gear train is put to. As general advice having gears with less than about 15 teeth is not prefered as the tooth can be under cut slightly (especially at 14 1/2 degrees pressure angle) so not as strong. Of course, the smaller the teeth, the more that fit on a diameter but this takes longer to cut and the tooth is weaker because it is not as thick. For general purpose work I'd suggest something like 12DP/ M2 as probably a good starting point.

The rolls that crimp the wire don't have to be gear shaped by the way. Provided the two rolls are linked with gears the rolls themselves can be star shaped if it gives the desired crimp. If deforming stainless wire it may be better to have separate rolls as they can be hardened while the gears left in the as cut condition.

Michael

PS Don't know how I managed to apply thanks to the previous post. It was not intentional!

Hello Michael, Thanks for the reply. I was thinking along similar lines by starting with 2.5Mod, but I'd like to stick with off the shelf standards. The KHK range are my preferred source. It's always a compromise between strength and cost. A 2.5 Mod with 40 teeth is about $85.00, but I can get the same gear from my source in China for US$15.00, but the freight kills it.

The rolls that do the actual crimping of the ferrule will be hexagon shaped and bolted to separate hubs that are in turn both driven by the gear sets. When I say hex shape, I mean the profile of the crimp. The dies themselves will be circular segments. It's a pretty simple set up. Youtube have these type of machines in various configuration. Some are hydraulically driven and I have seen an electric one also.