Thread: Hand made scrapers

G’day Michael.

I had an email from Bruce (Abratool) this afternoon. Thinking of same. I’ve stirred that up in the scraping class thread, from post #56 onwards. Consider it home work.

Regards Phil.

Yes Phil - your post set me off on this question. Looking at all that nice work made me wonder whether the makers are still happy with them or would do things differently.

Michael

Ok Michael, my impressions:
I made two different lengths and two different style/shape handles - as well as a prototype Swiss pull scraper.
I keep coming back to the smaller diameter handle and the shorter one of the two.
I think I'll keep the longer type for a job that I can't get to the height I need and use it 'from the hip'.
The clamps for the carbide have never moved in use even though mine are not particlularly precise (compared to Ray's).
The mild steel seems plenty strong enough, apparently no need to use tool steel in this application.

I have used the pull scaper only on one job which had very narrow strips I wanted flat, and I kept rounding off the edges by slipping off with the push scrapers.

Hope that helps,
Joe

Originally Posted by Michael G

I dare say that we will learn all this from Phil, but I'd be interested in the thoughts of those of you who have made your own scrapers - specifically how you arrived at the proportions you have (and of course what they are) and how they work for you in practice. Having made one, done the course and used it, what would you change/ improve? Are the lengths right? Do the carbide clamps hold? Are the handles the right shape? (is the mother of pearl inlay on the exotic hardwood looking a little worn?)

Michael

The durability of mother of pearl is a question that should be directed at Ray G.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

The durability of mother of pearl is a question that should be directed at Ray G.

Ha ... I'll trade the MOP for a motor anyday...

I've promised Bruce I'll measure up the one I made a bit later tonight. I'll post the dimensions in this thread.

Although, with my, limited and unskilled experience, I think having a sharp edge is probably more important that the other factors, Marko and Phil will show you what a sharp edge looks and feels like to use... just that sort of tiny detail is the type of thing that makes this course well worthwhile..

But for scraper design, having something that's comfortable to use is important after long hours of blue, scape, blue, scrape,blue, scape, blue, scrape,....

Different people have different styles as well, which means the length and handle shapes is something you should make to suit yourself.

Regards
Ray

Here is the business end of the scraper.



The carbide inserts that Phil got made are excellent and a very fine grade of carbide, I got some carbide blanks, but it was a coarser grade and the edge wasn't anywhere near as good as the ones Phil did. Those were 2.5mm thick, so make sure you allow for clamping 2.5mm.

As Joe said, the material you make it from can be just mild steel. It doesn't need to be spring steel. The overall length of mine was 20", but reading the Anderson web page that Phil linked to
Anderson Brothers Manufacturing in Rockford, IL Original Solid Shank Scraper and Model 5 Tubular Scrapers with High Speed Steel and Carbide Tipped Blades.

Around 18-20" would be a good average.

The length and handle style are a matter of personal preference, so you can make whatever feels comfortable. I'd recommend a wooden handle over a plastic one, it has a better feel, and in any case mother of pearl just doesn't go with red plastic handles..

Regards
Ray

I'm not using the tubular one these days. I made one out of 25 x 3 mild with a sandwich clamp to suit Phil's blades and a cheap file handle. It's really not rocket science. Like Ray said, other things are more important. But if you're not already, do plan to get yourself set up for carbide. A cheap diamond wheel and a lap is all you need.

Edit: Glad I didn't post a pic of mine after seeing Ray's.