Thread: Hand Sharpening Drills

Grahame
Thanks for posting that link. Its a pretty good "how to" I thought. Pretty much the way I was taught way back in 1974/75.
Had a bit of a laugh when I read the part a "large bit, 12.5mm" To me anything with a No 3 Morse taper shank and smaller is not a large bit. LOL
Just what you are used to isn't it?.


regards
bollie7

Thanks Grahame,

Saved this to my favourates, not that I needed the information, just because it brings back memories.

Some may think that I have a problem, but for some reason I love sharpening my drills by hand. It was my job as an apprentice, to keep most of the drills sharpened.

Have to agree with Bollie7, a 12.5 mil drill is not what I class as big. Sharpening 3" drill bits was the norm.

Squirrel.

Yes,
I thought big drills were 2.5 " and bigger.I can remember the guy on the big Asquith drill, we had in the shop were I was working, had a J shaped tool with a point that fitted into the center hole on the taper.He scraped the cutting edges on the flat face to check that the cutting edges were the same length.

I noticed the small drill comment,but I suppose the guy from Autospeed is a journalist with a car /home / diy interest and not had much exposure to engineering tools.However its good to see someone making an effort to foster a basic skill like that.
I recognise some of the material from training booklets,but the bloke has gone a good job of integrating all of the information and graphics .

Up until the time I did the machining course I had others sharpen my drills for me .The fitter teacher showed me the basics and started me on a heap of blunt shop drills.
One you get the hang of the dual twist and drop motion and can duplicate for the opposing cutting edge ,you are in business.

Its a bit like that first moment when you first get to ride the pushie without the trainer wheels and you think why couldn't I do this before ?

I must admit to trouble with the little drill under 3mm though.I have thoughts of a grinder with a large magnifier lens fitted to it.

Grahame

i think that by "larger bit" they were talking to home handy men and the like where you dont use much over 10mm lol

great site thanks for showing i have been shown a few times how to sharpen D bits but have never got the courage to give it a try latter i think

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

Yes,
I thought big drills were 2.5 " and bigger.I can remember the guy on the big Asquith drill, we had in the shop were I was working, had a J shaped tool with a point that fitted into the center hole on the taper.He scraped the cutting edges on the flat face to check that the cutting edges were the same length.

I know exactly what you are talking about, used to rub a bit of white chalk on the plate and scribe a line with the cutting edge. Then would measure the lenght of the cutting edge to make sure they were the same.

This was followed up with a notch ground on the web (think this is the right name, it is the flat on the point of the drill) to reduce it's width as this is a non cutting edge and is generally forced through the material.

It is amazing what you remember.

Squirrel.

Yep, 3mm and smaller it's time to invest in the big magnafier light thingy, same with sharpening my tenon saws these days.

Greetings chaps. I learnt to sharpen a drill under the supervision of a ancient leading hand with a 2 inch drill on a 3 inch wide 24 inch diameter wheel. I had just been promoted to work a Macson Center Lathe. I had missed out of the capstan and turret lathes so I was pretty green. This was the early 1960's. I have found that if you rest the first two fingers on the work rest with the third finger against the edge of the rest to stop forward movement and the thumb rests on top of the drill to controll the beastie. The other hand holds the drill at the intended angle. This cand be obtained from any of the engineering hand books. Mine is called the Black Book. The best trick I can give is after positioning the drill to the desired cutting angle raise the back of the drill so the point is aimed at the grinding wheel center, ie the center of the grinding wheel spindle. Move the drill in to the wheel untill you see sparks coming off all the cutting edge then the thumb rolls the drill and the other hand moves the back down. Before you move the drill away from the grinder revolve the drill and do the same to the other cutting edge. This will give approx the same angle to each side. Then examine the drill. The trailing edge of the ground surface has to be lower than the cutting edge otherwise it will rub and not cut. Then it is back to the grinding wheel to correct it. Of course both cutting edges have to be the same length .If you don't then its back to the grinding wheel.
A handy impliment for sharpening drills with a center in the tang is a J shaped piece of flat steel the short leg of the J is sharpened to a point . The flat surface it chalked up and after the tang center is placed on the point of the tool the sharpend points of the drill are scratched on the flat. This will tell you if both cutting edges are uniform and the drill is sharpened. If they are not even the one edge will do all the work. Then its back to the grinder. you can tell if the drill is not right when you use the dern thing and you only get one metal streamer from the bit. A word about sharpening a drill for NON FEROCIOSE METALS With a fine stone rub a flat on both cutting edges of the drill. This will stop the drill from grabing when breaking though the work piece.
Sorry about running off at the keyboard but I have done this many a stubborn apprentice over the years and it is much easier to show than tell.
PS for anyhing under 1/8 drills there are a few cheap sharpening machines around and do not forget to kee the grindin wheel dressed and sharp.

Sorry 4-6-4

Grahame,

Thank you for posting that link.
It is well worth exploring other articles on that site. Some very down-to-earth articles there and they are Australian.

Thank you,

Findlay.