Thread: Can you help with this one?

Hi,
What type of taper is it? A lot of people over tighten draw bars and end up with something stuck in the taper..
Last week I just got a stuck arbor out of my new/old horizontal mill that must have been there for years, I used the hot air gun (like a hair drier) to heat just the spindle and it came out with out too much trouble.
You could try running it to warm it up as well.
Some time's one good hard whack gets it, you could support the spindle with a block of wood on the table supporting it.
Dave

Hi Dave,
It's an MT3, ER32 collet. I thought of letting cooling down, but I'll have a go at heating it a bit. I've barely used it since new and I'd hate to have to call the supplier in for a service already...

Thanks, Dave.
I borrowed the missus hair drier (the one she doesn't use any more), and it seemed to loosen it a tad.
I did, however, apply a bit more persuasion than I was prepared to before, and that helped too. The taper wasn't marked, so no damage done.

Thanks again!

Hi Mark,
At least you got it out, some can be near impossible.
One tip I will give you is to leave a film of oil on both the taper and the collet chuck and anything else you put in.
I spray all my bare surfaces of my tools with a 20-30% motor oil and 70-80% kero mix when not using them to keep away rust, then when I use them I wipe most off with a clean rag then use my hand for the final wipe and I can feel a small amount of oil on them. Same with the spindle and wipe it out with a rag then your finger.
I read somewhere years ago that ER collets should have a small amount of oil on them as it lets them seat better instead of binding in the taper when you do them up.
I always apply a little oil inside on the taper of the collet chuck and on the taper of the nut where the collet contacts when putting a new collet in, the collets already have a light coat of oil even after being wiped.
When you do up the chucks etc in the spindle just nip them up, over tightening only over stresses everything.
Dave

If it is a morse taper spindle shouldn't it have slots in the side of the quill where you put the tapered removal tool in??

Ever heard the phrase "Never put your Finger where you wouldnt put your Dick".

RC,

I might be wrong but I don't think the spindle would have ejection slots if there's a drawbar.

I'm trying to track down an ISO 30 to 3 Morse adaptor that doesn't have ejection slots and will accommodate a drawbar but they don't seem to exist.

Bob.

Originally Posted by .RC.

If it is a morse taper spindle shouldn't it have slots in the side of the quill where you put the tapered removal tool in??

Most if not all of the M/T arbors baring Drills dont have a Tang on them.

The End of the M/T sit at the Bottom of the Elogated hole,there is nowhere for the Drift to touch,and if there was you could run the chance of damaging the end preventing the Drawbar from fitting.

From the picture below, I think these are the ejection slots that you are referring to. Having read the instructions, there was no mention of ejection slots and how to use them when referring to morse tapers.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

RC,

I might be wrong but I don't think the spindle would have ejection slots if there's a drawbar.

I'm trying to track down an ISO 30 to 3 Morse adaptor that doesn't have ejection slots and will accommodate a drawbar but they don't seem to exist.

Bob.

Hello Marc,

I don't have a mill like yours but I reckon the slotted nose on your spindle drives the dogs on the face mill that is often supplied with the type of mill you have, The photo below shows the dogs partially hacked off. The other photo shows the ejection slot in the quill of a drill.

Bob