Thread: Help Wanted - Drill Grinding Jig Without Instructions

This could be handy.
(well at least the first couple of chapters.
http://www.bookdepository.com/Tool-C.../9781854862419

Stuart

I've had one of those for years and never used it.

Here is a scan of the English instructions (they also came in German!)

Mine is branded Paulcall and was made in Japan.

http://www.generaltools.com/assets/i...825_Manual.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQ6vUVfIuXI

Mine is Picador brand, UK made.
I find it fiddly and time consuming, but I think they might all be like that.
So, I do it off-hand, but keep the jig in case I need to grind one just right.

Jordan

Originally Posted by nadroj

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQ6vUVfIuXI

Many thanks. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words ...... The Chinese/English instructions actually make sense now that I've seen that Youtube Video. Umm - That's a worry.....

How did we ever manage to solve problems before the Internet and Woodwork Forums came along ?

Thanks again,

Roy

Not only are the instructions confusing, they are incorrect. The instructions that came with my jig say to set it up so the drill cutting edge contacts on the side of the wheel, towards the front and level with the wheel shaft. Do not do this. Contact should be near the top centre of the side of the grinding wheel. This way the grinding lines cross the cutting edge of the drill at right angles. If the lines follow the cutting edge of the drill they will weaken it causing chips.

I worked out how to use mine by trial and error and by making several complex CAD drawings to highlight all the angles and distances. This did not help at all. I made a simple set of ways to allow the jig to be moved along more accurately than the base fixing slot. The important thing is to have the cutting edge of the drill vertical as it contacts the wheel. This is hard to do unless there is some way to move it accurately. I set the drill in the jig with the edge vertical, then slowly feed it in until it starts to grind, using the added ways and adjustment screw (1/4 Whit). Lock this down then continue to sharpen using the adjustment on the jig itself. The jig has 2 knurled nuts. 1 is a locking nut and the other is a stop nut. The stop nut moves. It also needs a locking nut added.

I don't believe it matters much how far the drill sticks out except it should be as little as possible for rigidity. My instructions were specific about this distance. 1/2 diameter or something. Ignore this. Set the drill vertical and adjust the bit on the end of the jig to stop the drill at this angle. I also loosen the drill bit and roll it back against this bit everytime I adjust the cut.

Grind the most damaged or worn side first. When the cutting edge has cleaned up lock the stop nut with a slight clearance. Continue to grind until you come up against this stop. Continue for a few strokes without adjustment Back off the adjustment. Then turn the drill 180 deg and grind the other side the same.

I always oscillate the jig by holding it lightly at the very back near the stop nut. Actually I think that I push on the side of the square shaft. It is important to avoid applying anything but sideways force or you may alter the angle. I have sharpened many drills this way, and the results are excellent. Perfect symmetry and great cutting.

It is several years since I have used mine, as I have had problems with grinders etc etc and I have not got around to setting up my new Abbot and Asby in a fixed position yet. I want to have a rotating device to hold several grinders. BobL, I believe it was has made one. Anyway, because of the time factor I am trying hard to remember all this, but may not have it perfect.

I have a GMC woodlathe that I intend to fit a 14inch disk to and use it as a disk sander. This may be used for drill sharpening. At the moment it won't hold a disk quite that big. I have the disk which I made up for the same purpose many years ago and used it on the woodlathe I had built with the help of Wilf Manning. The lathe got thrown out by a mates wife/ex wife. Long story. I still have the disk. It is coincidental that it is 14 inches in diameter. What the lathe would take I guess. Shearing cutter sharpening disks just happen to be that same size and are readily available, in wool growing areas anyway.

Hope this helps some.

Dean

Hi Guys,

Have you seen this web site article
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/inde...88.0;topicseen
It discusses these drill jigs and how to use them.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Guys,

Have you seen this web site article
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/inde...88.0;topicseen
It discusses these drill jigs and how to use them.

I was interested in reading this information, but unfortunately I was unable to see the pictures which makes it difficult to understand. It is annoying when this happens.

Dean

Reading on a bit further, I see there is a member called Baron who starts posting. He missed out on a couple of drill sharpening jigs from the scrap yard.

From the OP from that Model Engine Maker Thread.

As most of these jigs end up sold on, under the bench or in the scrap bin the outlay involved to procure a donor jig is minimal so the reader could have at the end of the day a very valuable asset if they follow my lead. The down side is once word gets out that these jigs are a valuable resource the price will go up.

Hi Gray,

Bugger ! Some one has beaten me to those drill jigs... Ah well you can't win them all

A shame you missed them.

I might have to register so I can see the pictures. I presume that is the problem. At least it is a recent thread. Gray mentions sharpening drills from 1/16" to 1". That would be handy. I have retrofitted a length of angle to hold bigger drills, but it is a bit rough and ready. Now that I have a mill I could improve it. It would be good to know how to sharpen the smaller stuff and adjust for the relief for different sizes.

Dean

The Graham Meek thread started on the Model Engineer site. It appears that Gray is no longer a member there?! There is further information in that thread and more pics. I am not a member - I can see the pics.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/foru...s.asp?th=95436

On the basis of this article, mine is now on the bench for assessment and possible modification.

Findlay.

Here's a pretty simple jig in order to sharpen drill bits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72syhJoOsHM

Ken

Originally Posted by MacPuddock

The Graham Meek thread started on the Model Engineer site. It appears that Gray is no longer a member there?! There is further information in that thread and more pics. I am not a member - I can see the pics.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/foru...s.asp?th=95436

On the basis of this article, mine is now on the bench for assessment and possible modification.

Findlay.

Thanks for that Findlay. You could have posted this before I registered on the other forum tho!!!

Here I am waiting for a "person" to check my registration to ensure that I am not really a robot in drag.

I am starting to get confused at this point. I followed a link to http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html and I was going to mention it in this thread because that is where I got a lot of my info originally, including the direction of the grinding marks. I could not find where the link was to thank the member. Found it. It is in the "Quorn T&C Grinders" thread. I have Michael to thank. There is info on that page about using this grinding jig.

There is also a really good looking grinding jig/grinder that I am tempted to make. It is shown in the first picture on the page. 4 and 6 facet drill sharpening. Some time back someone mentioned buying a chainsaw sharpening grinder from EBay to be used as the drive source for a diamond cup wheel. All these great ideas.

Dean

Yeah - sorry about that. I probably should have posted it in both (or this one only).

Michael

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Thanks for that Findlay. You could have posted this before I registered on the other forum tho!!!


Dean

Sorry 'bout that. I was actually playing with my drill grinding jig.

There are differences between the photos. Looks like any further info will be on Model Engine Maker.

Depending on your interests, Model Engine Maker is an interesting forum. I am a member there.

Cheers,

Findlay.

Originally Posted by Michael G

Yeah - sorry about that. I probably should have posted it in both (or this one only).

Michael

I forgive you. It was a timely reminder. I do have the Gadget Builder Site in my bookmarks, twice. It is an involved site. It has been a while since I looked at it.

Meanwhile I have been trying to get my mind around Graham Meek's modifications. I am starting to get it, but I may get a better idea if I can see the pictures in the MEM thread.

Dean