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Thread: HELP! Lathe failure
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9th August 2012, 08:50 AM #16
Yes, It was a little stiffish.
That was my assumption also. It turns out that the main gears are actually free on the main shaft and the gear with the broken key isn't (or shouldn't be). The gear reduction actually happens at the other end of the headstock.
only the forward and reverse gears. I did drain the headstock - nothing foreign in it at all ... very clean actually ... certainly no Chinese casting sand .
No don't, but could get one tonight.Cheers.
Vernon.
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9th August 2012, 09:34 AM #17Cheers.
Vernon.
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9th August 2012, 09:39 AM #18Senior Member
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As a mechanic for 40 yrs this is the way i do wheel brgs
Make sure the brg cones are seated with hammer and punch, if they are turning in their housings Loctite them in.
Assemble shaft and cones and tighten nut firm,spin the shaft and back off the nut till loose, then retighten nut using 1 finger on the wrench to preload the brgs you are looking for about 1/3 the pressure of your first tighten.
If you are using new bearings i would use 2 fingers to allow for bedding in, you could use lite oil on brgs during assembly.
Diff reconditioners would use a spring gauge to set preload [ something like Scales to weigh a fish] in the old days, you could search the Web to set preload this way.
Hope this helps.
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9th August 2012, 09:44 AM #19Distracted Member
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Machtool Phil is your man. Until he comes along some searching will keep you busy, especially on PM. Is it just a single bearing at each end? As I understand it there are two main ways to measure preload: rolling torque and temperature rise. You should be able to hold your hand on the housing after extended running at high speed. But if it's not fairly warm they're too loose.
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9th August 2012, 12:25 PM #20
Ok, I've done a a few wheel bearings, so can see where you are coming from. I have on occasion used the spring gauge to check preload, when I know what the figure should be. Trouble is this is an old lathe (1948) and I don't have any technical info on it.
There are two tapered roller bearings in the chuck (right) end of the housing (one on the outside and one on the inside of the housing wall) and a non-tapered roller bearing (or maybe very slightly tapered) on outside of the left end of the housing.Cheers.
Vernon.
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9th August 2012, 03:19 PM #21Distracted Member
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Mine has the opposed pair at the front too. Here is my thread on PM about adjusting mine: Do Graziano Spindle Bearings Need Adjustment?. Phil weighs in at #20. YMMV.
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9th August 2012, 03:49 PM #22
Thanks Bryan (and Phil) ... sounds like the way to go. Will give it a go tonight when I reassemble.
Cheers.
Vernon.
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10th August 2012, 09:58 AM #23
Ok, job done. Thanks all for your input.
... and here's a tip for you - don't start the lathe with the clutch disengaged, the lid off and the headstock full of oil ...Cheers.
Vernon.
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10th August 2012, 10:39 AM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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10th August 2012, 10:43 AM #25Cheers.
Vernon.
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10th August 2012, 11:30 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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"Splash lubrication?" "checked"
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10th August 2012, 12:09 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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It's an outstanding splash.
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10th August 2012, 12:39 PM #28
Pleased to hear things fixed
Must say the splash is something I'd fall for based on past history -
I've done it with cars
I was used to push rod engines, then worked on a new-fangled overhead cam engine - started it to see if thinks were right - they were and the oil pump worked well
- the chain driving the cam shaft that is ----cheers
David
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10th August 2012, 01:51 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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HI,
Glad to Hear You got it Sorted and glad to Hear that You avoided the Oil.All The Best steran50 Stewart
The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.
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