Thread: HENDEY is here

Originally Posted by Ueee

I'll note that too Pete, an air gun has been on the cards for a while. Luckily i don't have Mikes problem, but then the LeBlond came with only a non-fiting faceplate, so nothing for me to remove from the spindle.

Ewan

Yeah that's why i thought I'd quickly throw it up here as a side note rather than PM Mike. I figured a few people here may be thinking about them.

There are a few in this class on ebay Air Impact Wrench, Air Rattle Gun, 1/2" drv 1000 ft/lb | eBay

I've never seen 1/2" drive guns around 1000 ft-lbs before and it must surely be around the limit of what a 1/2" drive can take???? Until seeing this, the most powerful I'd seen were in the 700 range, even that is a very powerful gun. If anyone buys a powerful gun like this could they post in a separate thread how they find it? Even though mine has got off chucks as I mentioned, it's still pretty wimpy and I'd definitely like to upgrade.

Pete

Mike you posted while I was typing. Have you bought that already? For general use I think I'd recommend 1/2" drive as the sockets are much easier to come by in my experience. The torque on that one is no better than a good twin hammer 1/2" drive one. For example this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AIR-IMPAC...#ht_5403wt_922

I think if I was going to go 3/4" drive it would want to be up around 1000 ft-lbs, and now I've seen 1/2" drive guns in that range I'm not sure there would even be the point in 3/4 (for myself anyway) at all. Might be a different story for somebody who's hobby is restoring D9 'dozers

Pete

Originally Posted by morrisman

LOG

Yeah..if I look down into the chuck centre, I can see the end of the spindle and the morse taper socket. It's a threaded spindle I would say . Unless the threaded accessories ( faceplate and so on ) that came with it are from another Hendey , unlikely .

This lathe is a bit of a oddity . Its Metric to begin with . Why GMH wanted a metric lathe .... is a mystery . At the time they bought it ( assuming the manual that came with it is genuine and contemporary ) , they were just beginning making the 48-215 Holden .

The backing plate behind the chuck is quite subsantial , its heavy and long. Everything on this lathe is heavy

Ok read you loud and clear, soldier on.

Years ago when I started my apprenticeship the Binns and Berry lathe my then boss had bought new was only about a year old. He always made sure we took great care of that lathe, and his other machines.
He showed me how to remove the threaded chuck from the lathe. Chunk of solid bar in the jaws of the lathe sticking out radially towards the front of lathe, sticking out about 18 inches past the periphery of the chuck, lathe in low gear, then good bump down on bar with either the heavy lead hammer or the sledge hammer. The chuck was 16 inches in diameter. There was no provision on the lathe for locking the spindle or putting any other spanner on it.
The way he showed me was the accepted way, I've seen this done at other places, I've done it at other places, and we did it there all the time. After a lot of heavy work or big intermittent cuts then the next time the chuck had to come off it would often need a few or more heavy bumps down with the hammer.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

I think your boss is right about the lathe, but if it was a 3 jaw chuck and I understand the way you're talking about gripping the bar, I don't think it would do the chuck much good! Even a 4 jaw, where you don't need to worry about the scroll, isn't really meant to have to have its jaws torqued around like this. Maybe I misunderstood your description, but I've heard of others suggesting taking off chucks in such a way. Given a choice I wouldn't do it with my chucks.

Pete

Hi

Out of interest , this is the toolpost on the Hendey . The tool holder is about 25mm square . Can somebody ID the carbide cutter ? It seems to have much negative rake ?

MIKE

In your picture back at post #41. What’s the timber? It looks soft, in which case you will be loosing lots of the shock value. If you could try that with some decent hardwood, and cut it length so it hits on end grain, that will help. Further out on the lever the better.

If your going to go the rattle gun route, it will want to be a very good one. What’s that chuck 8” – 10” and maybe 80 pounds of chuck and backing plate. Its effectively a stationary flywheel, it will have to be a really good gun to overcome that mass at that diameter.

Phil.

Your tool holder is probably Sandvik, I get that by the yellow label. It should have a number on the shank, once you take it out.

Good point Phil, I guess it's all relative and this is a much bigger lathe/chuck than I used one on. However I think it would still be worth a shot, I feel the good thing is that it's extremely unlikely to damage anything, even accidentally, whereas a mis-swung hammer etc could get embarrassing very quickly! I think it's really the shocks of the hammer that do the work, so if it's restrained appropriately so they can do the job it may still do the trick.

Pete

Hi mike

have you looked at the quick withdraw leaver yet
combined with the auto direction change should make for some pretty fast threading the holbrook has the same setup very cool feature

cheers
Harty

Mike,
Looks like a nice old lathe, I am sure it will keep you busy for a few weeks, LOL

Dave

Tool appears to be a PDJN r/l

Originally Posted by Pete F

I think your boss is right about the lathe, but if it was a 3 jaw chuck and I understand the way you're talking about gripping the bar, I don't think it would do the chuck much good! Even a 4 jaw, where you don't need to worry about the scroll, isn't really meant to have to have its jaws torqued around like this. Maybe I misunderstood your description, but I've heard of others suggesting taking off chucks in such a way. Given a choice I wouldn't do it with my chucks.

Pete

Absolutely, morrisman is lucky with having spanner slots on the chuck boss.

Cheers.

If I'm not right, then I'm wrong, I'll just go bend some more bananas.

Originally Posted by Machtool

In your picture back at post #41. What’s the timber? It looks soft, in which case you will be loosing lots of the shock value. If you could try that with some decent hardwood, and cut it length so it hits on end grain, that will help. Further out on the lever the better.

If your going to go the rattle gun route, it will want to be a very good one. What’s that chuck 8” – 10” and maybe 80 pounds of chuck and backing plate. Its effectively a stationary flywheel, it will have to be a really good gun to overcome that mass at that diameter.

Phil.

Your tool holder is probably Sandvik, I get that by the yellow label. It should have a number on the shank, once you take it out.

Excellent points Phil , it all makes sense .

But I agree with Pete. , its worth trying the impact device . I've always wanted one and I can use it for lots of other jobs . I have a vintage Morris truck with large BSF wheel nuts , I will make up an adapter for the windy gun .

Yes the wood I tried is soft , and the spanner dug into it . Its too wet here now to have another go . They say its going to dry out tomorrow .

Ok on the tool holder . The tool bit in it is an elongated diamond shape , long and thin .

Mike

AHHHH

Discovery time ..this lathe has tapered roller bearings in the spindle .

A guy on the US forum told me to look at the stamped markings on the large collar on the spindle housing , they stamped 3 letters there indicating the bearing type TRB = tapered roller bearings

Mine has "TRB" stamped there .

I hope that idiot transport guy hasnt damaged them by lifting on the spindle

MIKE

Originally Posted by morrisman

AHHHH

Discovery time ..this lathe has tapered roller bearings in the spindle .

A guy on the US forum told me to look at the stamped markings on the large collar on the spindle housing , they stamped 3 letters there indicating the bearing type TRB = tapered roller bearings

Mine has "TRB" stamped there .

I hope that idiot transport guy hasnt damaged them by lifting on the spindle

MIKE

Long thread on PM recently, consensus was the bearings are made to take a lot more load than this, many lathes have been lifted via the spindle, nobody really can point to a problem definitively caused by it, and lots of people (including me) cringe at the idea.

So, probably no damage at all.

Nice lathe, BTW.

PDW