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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Victoria, Australia
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    74
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    6,132

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    Hi All,

    Josh ground some PFC (parallel flat channel) to use for setups on the surface grinder. This is the first time that we have ground a large surface for checking.

    So I checked it out, to see what sort of consistency we are getting. This video is showing some quick checks on the results.

    Apologies for the video quality, it's hard to juggle things one handed. while filming.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0i_caGLnfSg"]YouTube - ‪DSCN0584‬‏[/ame]

    I tried to blue it against the surface plate, but I'm having trouble with getting the blue on the surface plate consistent. I'm using Dykem Hi-Spot... and a cheap brayer. I think I need to practice bluing and spotting a bit.

    Regards
    Ray

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    59
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    2,557

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    Great work Ray. Who needs scraping when you can machine to those tolerances?
    But consider getting a tripod so we don't get seasick!

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    4,304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post

    I tried to blue it against the surface plate, but I'm having trouble with getting the blue on the surface plate consistent. I'm using Dykem Hi-Spot... and a cheap brayer. I think I need to practice bluing and spotting a bit.

    Regards
    Ray
    Not sure if bluing it will work too well.... It will be too smooth to blue properly...The surface needs to be roughish...All you will get are smears,,

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

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    Sure looks pretty Ray. within 0.0002", nice!

    Like RC says I've read spotting ground surfaces doesnt work.

    Stuart

  6. #95
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,986

    Default

    Ray,
    send a PM to Machtools.
    I've seen his grinder in operation and the coolant looked an smelled like cutting fluid to me.
    Joe

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Not sure if bluing it will work too well.... It will be too smooth to blue properly...The surface needs to be roughish...All you will get are smears,,
    I asked Phil that very question last weekend and he said he'd get back with an answer when he had a chance. I'd also heard that ground surfaces were tricky to scrape but have never tried to scrape them.

    Ray what did you use as a setup to get the channel square?

    Pete

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    For coolant I ended up with this stuff,



    You use it at 1.25% concentration, and at that rate the 20L will last me for years..

    The transparent bit is a big plus, you can see clearly what's going on while you are grinding.

    I've done a bit on coolant filtration, but I'll start a new thread for that, it's of more general interest than just grinding.

    Pete, Josh did the grinding, and he milled it first to get close to square, then ground one side... then spent ages getting everything clean clean clean.... before setting up for the other edge, and shimmed it square and finally added extra mag transfer blocks.

    The most important bit is the cleaning... one tiny speck of grinding dust or abrasive under the work and it will be off.

    Regards
    Ray

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    703

    Default Some surface grinding info

    Learning grinding my own please help - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

    G'day Ray and all,
    I know that you have been playing with your new toy for a while now Ray, and for all I know, you may have had years of experience in using these machine tools, but if you are just feeling your way, I found this on P.M. today and thought that it might be useful. Even if it's all old hat to you, there will be many of the rest of us who will learn plenty from the collective wisdom of the P.M. membership. Cheers,
    Rob.

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,650

    Default

    Thanks for that link Rob.

    I have read some of Marcus Carius's posts previously and for those that haven't already done so, it is worth the excursion to his Implant Mechanix website. A tool and die maker turned dentist and back again.

    One thing about metalwork is the realisation that I could only ever hope to be a jack of some trades. The depth of knowledge and skill to become a master would require a lifetime of practise.

    It is a pleasure to read an article such as that where people have taken the time to clearly explain a process or technique so that others may learn.

    Bob.

  11. #100
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

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    Interesting thread. A couple of things, some posts talk about using normal paper to pick up the wheel. We used cigarette paper, cant remember the brand sorry but it was exactly(or near enough to it) 0.001". You stuck it on the surface of the work with some spit. If you were really getting excited you would put mark out blue under it. Wind the wheel down until the paper moved then slow 0.0001"ths until you hit the blue.
    I didn't see mentioned if you are going to chase 10ths the table and work need to be clean. Really clean.

    Stuart

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
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    6,132

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    Hi Rob, Thanks for posting the link to that forum. I'm on the learning curve with respect to grinding, and there are a lot of good points in that thread.

    The manual that came with the machine is pretty good and we got a lot of good hints from discussions with the previous owner.

    Stuart has a lot of expertise (although he'll no doubt deny it) and has more than once headed us in the right direction.

    We have not yet ground anything to a targetted size. I think I can get to 0.01 with the height gauge I've got, but getting any closer than that would involve taking the part off the chuck measuring it, and then replacing it, and trying to grind the last few 10ths...

    As Stuart says cleaning is the key. I like the blue idea.

    I think accurate setup tools are important, getting good square angle plates and straight edges, that's where I'm hoping that learning how to scrape will comes in handy...

    Regards
    Ray

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