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  1. #46
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Nice job Ewan, you have done it pretty well identical to what I did mine.

    Dave
    Hi Dave,
    I used the mill for the first time this arvo, and as i lifted the knee an immediate problem arose- the rubber gets caught and pinched between the knee and column. the gap in the middle is just the wrong size. Did you have this problem? I'm thinking a simple flat bar to cover the gap should fix it.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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  3. #47
    Dave J Guest

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    Hi Ewan,
    Even though my material is thinner I don't have any problems like that as my gap is only around a couple of mm, and I didn't think your rubber would fold over that much to get caught..
    Your picture doesn't show the bottom of the rubber, but did you attach it to the back of the saddle like mine below? I thought I posted picture of my set up in the last week or so, but just had a look in this thread and cant see them, maybe I am imagining it, LOL


  4. #48
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    Hi Dave,
    I think you posted that pic in the "HM50 way cover" thread. That pretty much what i did, although i only have the rubber tucked under the wiper for now until i'm happy with the length of rubber i used.
    My gap between the knee and column is more like 4 or 5mm, no wonder i've got issues and you don't! i think i can fix something to where the rear of the concertina cover was attached to the rise and fall wiper.

    I finished the front wiper today, just need to cut the felt and put it in place with the front rubber cover. Although i didn't do a whole lot, the x and y feeds feel a lot better and without the backlash i had climb milling is much less scary. I cut the dovetail to 60 deg without checking it. Turns out it is closer to 55 deg

    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #49
    Dave J Guest

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    Do you have a picture of where it's going down and getting caught. I thought with the rubber folding over it would be a large enough radius and not be able to get caught in a gap that small.

    That wiper turned out good, does it over hang on the sides? With the knee wiper you only really need the outside ones as in my picture above. The inside ones do nothing at all, as that surface is not used for anything.

    Talking about your knee, do you have a screw at the top and bottom of the knee gib? If not I copied Chich's idea on my first mill by making a bracket and adjusting screw for the bottom of it where there was none. If yours is like this let me know and I will post pictures of the mod.

    Dave

  6. #50
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    The gap in between the knee and column is huge compared to yours, see pic.

    I have noted now that the china muck is cleaned out of the Z ways the gib floats in the backlash of the top screw. So no, i have no bottom screw and yes, some pics of the mod would be great.

    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Hi Ewan,
    That scraping where the rule is sitting. Does anything run on that?

    Stuart

  8. #52
    Dave J Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Ewan,
    That scraping where the rule is sitting. Does anything run on that?

    Stuart
    Only the Y axis sheet metal cover for the screw, looks pretty though.

    Dave

  9. #53
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    Bought a piece of delrin today for the spline knock fix. Just as Dave's machine i had to machine out the bore of the sleeve first as it was way out of whack. Pretty straightforward otherwise except the male spline is not a consistent size, it has a fat end......only about a thou but enough to grab the delrin bush I don't know if locktight works on delrin, i have a 1 thou interference fit on the bush but the spline still pushes the bush out if i drop the quill too far. Not sure what to do really I think i may machine it out some more and just see if i can get it loose enough but with no knock with the quill right up.



    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #54
    Dave J Guest

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    Looks good,
    Try oiling or greasing it first as the spline needs to be a firm fit in it to work. I would file or sand down the outside of the spline that bit to make it the same size, the bit you take off wont hurt anything.
    You could mount the spindle in the lathe and use a bit of emery on it until it was all one size.

    I found mine loosened up a little after being in there for a while, it still works fine but it's something to keep in mind as the spline will settle into it.

    Dave

  11. #55
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    Basically, you cant glue Delrin.
    It works a bit if you flame the surface or etch it in phosphoric acid (I think to remember).
    If you cut groves, it will grab the Delrin mechanically.


    Nick

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    Quote Originally Posted by MuellerNick View Post
    If you cut groves, it will grab the Delrin mechanically.


    Nick
    there's always another way to skin a cat ...great tip Nick

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