Thread: Hoist

Originally Posted by CGroves

I ruled out the electric ones as they only seemed to go to 800kg

You mean single phase ones?
you're talking about this sort of thing?
Electric Rope Hoist Winch 400 800 KG Capacity | eBay

It says it has 12m of cable so couldn't you run it through another block and have 1.6t? (though you'd have to anchor the block somewhere else)
That would still give you about 3m lift. Unless you have a high roof that sould be more than enough.

Originally Posted by CGroves

The first task it will be used for is to lift the surface grinder on and off the surface plate.

What the?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

What the?

Oh wait I worked it out...... your scraping it?

Chain block might be the go, those hoist start and stop with a bang.

While moving far with a chain block is painfully slow at least it is very controllable.

You could always make a variable speed hoist

Stuart

G'day Christian.

Your on the right track by staying away from electric for doing work like spotting to a plate. Most of them are two fast, good for getting work off a plate, but not so gentle setting it down.

A manual chain block, or come-a-long is far better.

I'd suggest keeping an eye out for good used second hand name brand unit. Rather than generic new in box Chinese. With the abundance of those around, it keeps the price of the used stuff down.

Example:
Chain Lever Hoist 3 TON Hoist Lever Block Made IN USA in Melbourne, VIC | eBay

Regards Phil.

Another option that crossed my mind when I was looking at the same issue. A cheap electric hoist with a chain block or come-a-long on the hook.

(hey its not my money )

Stuart

Stu, Yes I'm scraping it, although the surface plate would make a nice stable stand ). The other reason I wanted to stay away from an electric hoist is that I intend on making the gantry so I can pull it apart and transport it. I might need to pick up something and put it in the trailer where there's no ready access to power.

Phil, I can't say I've used the come-a-long type. I can see the benefit of not having extra chain getting caught up with what you're trying to lift. Are there any other pros and cons?

Christian

Chain blocks are better where you are using them for lifting and they need to be mounted at a height thats not easy to reach. lever blocks (come-a-longs) are more convenient for pulling horizontally or on an angle where the chain on a chain block would tend to tangle and jam. lever blocks can also be wound rapidly which can be handy.

I only have a chain block which I use for everything because i thinks its a bit more versatile but it would be nice to have both. Mines 15 years old and was a cheapy from an auto parts store which I'm sure would be the equivalent of an ebay one now. Never had a problem with it and I've used it to do some dodgy things... but with any chainblock I would be cautious about about working under anything suspended.

This is my set up I am currently using...

It is a bit of a kludge setup at the moment and needs urgent improvement..

The electric hoist is one of those cheap $100 600kg-300kg units from ebay... below that is a 250kg lever hoist... The electric hoist is for lifting off the bed and lifting on and off the scraping area (it is wood). The lever hoist for placing the headstock onto the bed...

Like Phil said, the electric ones are too fast for gentle placement....

I can say with a bit of experience, by the time you lift your object on and off the surface plate or machine for the 30th time using lever blocks it gets a bit tiresome...

When I was scraping the Macson TC grinder I used an engine crane with the usual hydraulic jack.... It was controllable... This was for both the saddle and the table, both have a bit of weight in them...

I have seen somewhere on PM forum a person used air rams suspended from the ceiling as lifting points, but they were for low kg items, not hundreds of kg....

Originally Posted by CGroves

Are there any other pros and cons?

I dont have an option for either. The come-a- long / lever types are really short on chain. I dont think I've see one over 6 foot /1.8m range. And the only chain involded is the actual load chain.

Chain blocks have far more reach / depth, but I think you are dealing with an 8' ceiling? Not much point having a 20' drop. Plus on a convential chain fall you have the control chain. Gravity is a bitch, if your loading stuff onto a granite plate, that control chain wants to be dangling 'just" there.

The joy of a lever / come-a-long, you have to flick the lever for up or down, otherwise the ratchet just kicks in. So you know the direction you want.

I'm going to admit right know, I'm totally dyslexic, on a chain block, when you have two chains hanging down. I can be lowering somthing down, turn around to to find a tool, then pull the wrong chain. I can't help it.

I've several lever styles here. Drop in when you are this side of town. We can pick something heavy up and have a play. Right now they have never been so cheap. I had cause to buy a 750kg for a recent job. In Beaver brand, that went around $170

Regards.

Phil,

Hi CGroves,

Bought a 2 tonne chainblock with 6 metre fall for under $300 new from Bullivants. I was a bit concerned that they could sell a new chainblock so cheaply but was assured they sold lots of them into the mines and if they could not pass Australian standards and be reliable they would not be selling them into the mines. I have only used it once in serious anger, lifting my mill the other day which weighs 1850kG approx. As expected, not a problem.

The catch in hoists, to watch out for, is the girder trolley. I did a little shopping around for a 2 tonne trolley with 6 metres of chain and eventually ordered one from Bullivants as well. 3 metre ones are common and not that expensive. Mine had to be built to order and cost around $700.

Round polyester lifting slings are cheap as chips on ebay.

This subject is on my mind at the moment as I'm looking at adding a small gantry above my mill to allow changing of tables and heads, it will have about 4.5 metres of east/west travel and about 6 metres of north/south travel. The mill & spare tables etc. occupies about half this space. The other half of the space will probably get a short lathe and so the crane then can be used for changing chucks etc.

Cheers

The Beryl Bloke

I went about this slightly differently, albeit for a different purpose. My main concern at the time was getting dead cars into the shed without pushing, and removing/installing motors easily (i used to have serious back problems).
I did use it to load/unload/shuffle 2 lathes around but the $100 chinese ebay winch finally died trying to move my new 1500kg knee mill.
This setup was amazing while it lasted, so easy to pull motors out with. I bought a big (13000lb) winch as an upgrade some time ago but sold it due to the excessive size.







It is powered off a large bank of 12v batteries, shame you cant buy winches in 240v easily.

Originally Posted by andrew_mx83

I went about this slightly differently, albeit for a different purpose. My main concern at the time was getting dead cars into the shed without pushing, and removing/installing motors easily (i used to have serious back problems).
I did use it to load/unload/shuffle 2 lathes around but the $100 chinese ebay winch finally died trying to move my new 1500kg knee mill.
This setup was amazing while it lasted, so easy to pull motors out with. I bought a big (13000lb) winch as an upgrade some time ago but sold it due to the excessive size.


Snip



It is powered off a large bank of 12v batteries, shame you cant buy winches in 240v easily.

I have the same size winch which was bought for general farm use plus for the ute. I prefer a portable rather than a mounted winch on a 4WD. I had not thought about using it in the shed. I will remenber that idea.

Dean

Just on that engine lift assembly. You have a really serious load moment there trying to pull that gantry over.

Phil

Originally Posted by andrew_mx83

I went about this slightly differently, albeit for a different purpose. My main concern at the time was getting dead cars into the shed without pushing, and removing/installing motors easily (i used to have serious back problems).
I did use it to load/unload/shuffle 2 lathes around but the $100 chinese ebay winch finally died trying to move my new 1500kg knee mill.
This setup was amazing while it lasted, so easy to pull motors out with. I bought a big (13000lb) winch as an upgrade some time ago but sold it due to the excessive size.







It is powered off a large bank of 12v batteries, shame you cant buy winches in 240v easily.

andrew nice one. os the horizontal piece pipe? how are the vertical pieces held in place?
aaron

Now that I look closely, what diameter is that cross bar? If it is as small as it looks I would never think to lift a 6 cylinder motor on a beam like that. I have used a length of 100 shs x 6mm, admittedly nearly 4m between supports, but I welded some reo over the top in a double triangle to add strength. The roof truss behind it looks stronger. It obviously does the job tho!

I now have a trailer I built for general lifting purposes on the farm and hay lifting/carting (big round bales about 300kg). I have extracted a couple of motors with it now! Tow it around on the back of the ute. Easy to move motors. The trailer now operates with a long thro hydraulic jack. One of the reasons I gave my missus for buying the winch was to use it for lifting hay instead of the jack. Used it today to lift my brothers ute canopy off so he can leave it here. It is pretty heavy. He built it himself. Lifts up for overhead sleeping compartment. Mostly for the dogs tho. They get the best spots.

Can I see bits of angle welded on top of the uprights which the cross bar sits into with bolts to hold it in place?

I agree it looks precarious.

Dean