Thread: what to hold wood with in headstock?

if the drive spur has a morse taper then sleeve up the morse to the one in your head stock ( assuming your lathe has a morse taper) it may be a large morse so may require one or more sleeves. Otherwise look for a cheap drive spur and turn down the end so its parallel and fits your chuck.

Thanks,, after reading your response, I opened up a manual on the specifications of my lathe and it said for the headstock spindle
" 1 1/2" spindle, 8 pitch threads,......25/32" hole bored through entire length, nose bored for No.3 morse taper with reducing sleeve to take No. 2 Morse taper".

I had no idea what that meant until your answer. So, I guess ignore the 1 1/2" and the 25/32 information ,,and I should try finding a No.3 morse taper sleeve?
Then, the spur would be centered and not wobble when I slide it in?

If you have a spur drive, chances are that is a Morse Taper #2 (MT2), so try that first for fit.

you can get the adapter here

Tools4cheap LLC Online Machine Shop Tooling Store: Lathe Tooling,Lathe Collet Closers and Taper Adapters

Post the same question on the Woodturning Forum .
There are turners there who have experience with both metal and wood lathes .
Some may even live near you .

Usually I never have good luck. I went to my basement to sort through the box of stuff that came with the lathe. Most of the things I have no clue as to what they are. I found a morse 3 to 2 fitting, I realized what it was from the link (thanks). So I took off the 3 jaw and slapped it in. Great!!!! now I dont have to buy one. So I slid my tailstock all the way up to the spur with the live center in the tail and the points are off a tad. Now I think I need to adjust my tailstock.

Turning wood on a metal lathe????

Blasphemer, repent now before we burn you at the stake for even thinking such a wicked thought!!!!!!!!!


Repent, repent....

May not matter if your points are a tad off. Many woodlathes' are.

And you could have used the 3 jaw chuck too if it was wide enough for the blank. Roughly centred. Your turning is going to centre the rest.

I'll have to repent later , right now wood is easier to play with.
I stuck a small piece of wood between the centers and used my compound rest (I already forgot the names of the parts) and carriage to make a pass, just back and forth. I ended up with a cylinder (or a dowel) that is tapered. I thought that maybe it is tapered because the centers were off?
More blasphemy, I used a regular metal bit in the tool post just to see how the whole thing would work. I set the compound rest sideways to the bed (why, I have no clue) and adjusted the bit to the center of the wood. I imagine that regardless of the position of the bit or compound rest, by turning the carriage wheel I should still get a parallel cut on the wood blank. So, I'm either doing something wrong or something is not centered correctly on the lathe.
I'm going through all this trouble because I'm going to attempt making wooden volume knobs for an electric guitar I'm building. I want to make a 6 inch long 3/4" diameter dowel of a specific wood type and then part off each knob.
If that doesnt work I'll use brass!! Ha! I would just ruin it and waste money.

Use all my machinery for whatever is best for the project in hand.....They are, after all, just machines and a means to an end.
If a project is wood & can be best done on the Myford or milling machine rather than the Coronet then so be it.
eg.


Boxes roughed out on the Myford


Mark

Awesome files and beautiful boxes!!

Originally Posted by Old-Biker-UK

Use all my machinery for whatever is best for the project in hand.....They are, after all, just machines and a means to an end.
If a project is wood & can be best done on the Myford or milling machine rather than the Coronet then so be it.
eg.


Boxes roughed out on the Myford


My name is Mark & I am a blasphemer

Mark

Indeed you are a Blasphemer . Get ye to the ORNAMENTAL TURNING Forum

"My name is Mark & I am a blasphemer"
hmmm, maybe its something us Marc's have in common