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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default Hollow tube rotary welding table

    I really hate it when I use a lathe as a welding jig so I thought I would do something about it.
    I decided to make this with a hollow tube (88mm I.D) as it should make it quick and easy for welding flanges onto shafts,
    the hole in the shaft/faceplate will be fitted with a removable bush/plug when the big hole is not required and can be made to centre small jobs.
    The front and rear bosses will have 4 bolts in them to centre material in the tube in the same manner as a 4 jaw chuck,
    I have fabbed a face plate that will be welded the front boss.
    The tube will rotate within 8 x 6204 brgs, 4 at front and 4 towards the rear, think pipe roller, and a couple more
    for thrust, rolling on a disc.
    Yeah I know some will think that is rough but that is what I have got and it won't have much load on it and
    it only spins at low revs anyhow.
    I was just going to use a toothed belt drive reduction to the shaft with a speed controller http://www.jaycar.com.au/Power-Produ...oller/p/MP3209 but it needed a bit more gear reduction as at very low rpm the motor was a bit weak, so with the change of plans it will now also get a neutral position and a shaft lock by sliding the gear set out of mesh.

    I decided to make a gear reduction out of Briggs & Stratton camshaft gears, I was going to press the ring gear onto the boss with some loctite, I'm having a bit of a brain fart about this ?
    Both parts are machined to 3.700", I wanted a light press fit but now I don't think that is a good idea as the ring gear is CI and
    could crack, so what is the consensus about how much clearance I should give it in order for the ring gear to be slid onto the boss and be retained by loctite alone ?

    shed
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    74
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    Default

    The smaller the gap the better, you might be able to find some loctite data on-line, but a sliding fit would be a good start.

    One thing to keep in mind is that loctite comes loose at high temperatures, so it might not work if it's close to where you are welding.

    Another alternative might be to go for a heat shrink fit?

    PS. Looking very slick so far

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Braze it?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    I decided to make a gear reduction out of Briggs & Stratton camshaft gears,
    Do you still have the matting part from the B&S? what size it is?

    If you want to go the loctite route
    Q5: What is the optimum fit for using anaerobic retaining compounds if I want to maximize my shear strength?

    A: A slip fit would be suggested. The optimum fit for thinner products like LOCTITE 609 & 603 is 0.001-0.003' on the diameter. The optimum fit for thicker products like LOCTITE 620 & 638 is 0.002-0.004' on the diameter.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    The smaller the gap the better, you might be able to find some loctite data on-line, but a sliding fit would be a good start.

    One thing to keep in mind is that loctite comes loose at high temperatures, so it might not work if it's close to where you are welding.

    Another alternative might be to go for a heat shrink fit?

    PS. Looking very slick so far
    G/day Ray, the ring gear is to be fitted at the far end of the shaft away from the heat, also I think that mounting work on standoffs will reduce heat transfer.
    I thought about the heat shrink fit caper but the gear is pretty thin and I had premonitions of hearing a little tink as it cooled,
    anyway now that I have bored it it wouldn't be tight enough.....

    shed

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Braze it?
    G/day Gammaboy,
    Or even silver solder, or even a stainless rod.
    Unfortunately I got sick of paying rental on bottles some time ago for how much I used them.
    But good idea, thanks

    shed

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Do you still have the matting part from the B&S? what size it is?

    If you want to go the loctite route
    Q5: What is the optimum fit for using anaerobic retaining compounds if I want to maximize my shear strength?

    A: A slip fit would be suggested. The optimum fit for thinner products like LOCTITE 609 & 603 is 0.001-0.003' on the diameter. The optimum fit for thicker products like LOCTITE 620 & 638 is 0.002-0.004' on the diameter.
    G/day Stuart, there is no mating part, in one of the photo's I put in a another camshaft just to show what the ring gear
    was snaffled from.

    Thanks for that data, you gave me a shove in the right direction.
    This loctite looks like it will do the job nicely http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_H...=8802649407489

    Pity the local ind. supplier hasn't got it

    shed

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Do you have access to dry ice (frozen stuff not the other), wrap the tube in plenty of news paper and fill it with the dry ice to shrink it. Then fit the gear. Have repaired a few cracked engine cylinders this way.
    Kryn

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Do you have access to dry ice (frozen stuff not the other), wrap the tube in plenty of news paper and fill it with the dry ice to shrink it. Then fit the gear. Have repaired a few cracked engine cylinders this way.
    Kryn
    Thanks Kryn, Healesville doesn't even have loctite let alone eskimo's
    thanks m8 but I think I'll go the loctite.

    shed

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    539

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Thanks Kryn, Healesville doesn't even have loctite let alone eskimo's
    thanks m8 but I think I'll go the loctite.

    shed
    Bearing Wholesalers in Lilydale has a pretty good range of Loctite gear - got some 609 there not long ago. Not too sure about 620, but could be worth a phone call at least, if you're heading that way.

    Also thought I'd mention, although you probably already know, Bunnings now do oxy and acetylene in a Swap and Go type deal....

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Also thought I'd mention, although you probably already know, Bunnings now do oxy and acetylene in a Swap and Go type deal....
    Thanks for that, I hadn't heard, looks like I get oxy gear finally. Still hurting from the last BOC $300+ annual rental fee for argon and argoshield..

    It's about time someone gave BOC some real competition.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    57
    Posts
    34

    Default

    You can always try scotch keying the ring gear with a couple 4mm grub screws along with Loctite. Some Loctites take a hell of a lot of heat.


    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    I really hate it when I use a lathe as a welding jig so I thought I would do something about it.
    I decided to make this with a hollow tube (88mm I.D) as it should make it quick and easy for welding flanges onto shafts,
    the hole in the shaft/faceplate will be fitted with a removable bush/plug when the big hole is not required and can be made to centre small jobs.
    The front and rear bosses will have 4 bolts in them to centre material in the tube in the same manner as a 4 jaw chuck,
    I have fabbed a face plate that will be welded the front boss.
    The tube will rotate within 8 x 6204 brgs, 4 at front and 4 towards the rear, think pipe roller, and a couple more
    for thrust, rolling on a disc.
    Yeah I know some will think that is rough but that is what I have got and it won't have much load on it and
    it only spins at low revs anyhow.
    I was just going to use a toothed belt drive reduction to the shaft with a speed controller http://www.jaycar.com.au/Power-Produ...oller/p/MP3209 but it needed a bit more gear reduction as at very low rpm the motor was a bit weak, so with the change of plans it will now also get a neutral position and a shaft lock by sliding the gear set out of mesh.

    I decided to make a gear reduction out of Briggs & Stratton camshaft gears, I was going to press the ring gear onto the boss with some loctite, I'm having a bit of a brain fart about this ?
    Both parts are machined to 3.700", I wanted a light press fit but now I don't think that is a good idea as the ring gear is CI and
    could crack, so what is the consensus about how much clearance I should give it in order for the ring gear to be slid onto the boss and be retained by loctite alone ?

    shed

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,680

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Thanks Kryn, Healesville doesn't even have loctite let alone eskimo's
    thanks m8 but I think I'll go the loctite.

    shed
    whad do ya want me for..

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde View Post
    Bearing Wholesalers in Lilydale has a pretty good range of Loctite gear - got some 609 there not long ago. Not too sure about 620, but could be worth a phone call at least, if you're heading that way.

    Also thought I'd mention, although you probably already know, Bunnings now do oxy and acetylene in a Swap and Go type deal....
    Thanks Jekyll, they didn't have it either so they are getting it in.
    Regarding the gas, I read about it in the welding forum a few weeks back, I reckon that when the crunch comes and I need to get
    gas, for whatever that may be, I will likely just get an oxygen and use LPG with the comet 3.

  16. #15
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Seymore Butts View Post
    You can always try scotch keying the ring gear with a couple 4mm grub screws along with Loctite. Some Loctites take a hell of a lot of heat.
    G/day Seymore, I am not keen on tapping into 2 dissimilar metals, and besides that I there isn't much left on the boss that the
    ring gear slides onto. The 620 supposed to loose its hardness at 250 c.

    shed

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