Thread: Hollow tube rotary welding table

Originally Posted by eskimo

whad do ya want me for..

If yer got nuffin ter do ya cud fix the leaky float valve in the evap on da shed

How are you going to hold the boss to the pipe?

I'm thinking you can remachine what you have. It would seem to be to big after all.

Or fit the boss to the pipe (weld?) then remachine the seat for the ring gear.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

How are you going to hold the boss to the pipe?

I'm thinking you can remachine what you have. It would seem to be to big after all.

Or fit the boss to the pipe (weld?) then remachine the seat for the ring gear.

Stuart

G/day Stuart, I wanted to press the boss onto the tube then 4 light weld's internally approx 20mm long 90 deg apart, and then slide and loctite the ring gear on.

1/ My thinking is now to start fresh and bore the inside of the pipe with the hope I can end up without it being oval, then make a plug with a centre hole to support that end in the tail stock and hopefully end up with a better machined surface to fit the boss onto. ? After the bosses are welded on to the tube I have a bit of machining to do on the tube to finish it so holding the ends well is probably a good place to start.

2/ Or maybe press the boss on the with the ring gear in place and that will give the the ring gear the interference fit, then after welding the boss to the tube give it a squirt of that loctite that wicks in after assembly ?

3/ If the gear comes loose later on at some stage, which I doubt given it isn't under much load, then could tack it in place with a ss rod ?

4/ There is quite a bit of stress in that black pipe, so maybe I need to stress relieve it first ? Ho hum ???

shed

Hi Shed

Originally Posted by shedhappens

G/day Stuart, I wanted to press the boss onto the tube then 4 light weld's internally approx 20mm long 90 deg apart, and then slide and loctite the ring gear on.

So why not do that with what you have?(remachining the seat after welding, you can make a plug to fit the boss.)

Another idea set the the boss(or the tube) and relieve the bore "under" the gear.(it looks to be a pretty thin wall there). Then the press fit is taken by the thick part of the boss and should much less effect on the gear seat size.

Originally Posted by shedhappens

2/ Or maybe press the boss on the with the ring gear in place and that will give the the ring gear the interference fit, then after welding the boss to the tube give it a squirt of that loctite that wicks in after assembly ?

I dont like this idea. You'll have unknown interference and not wanting interference on the gear is how we got here .

Stuart

p.s. I dont know how big your lathe is but is it possible you've tighten your 4jaw(?) to much and deformed the tube?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Shed


So why not do that with what you have?(remachining the seat after welding, you can make a plug to fit the boss.)

Another idea set the the boss(or the tube) and relieve the bore "under" the gear.(it looks to be a pretty thin wall there). Then the press fit is taken by the thick part of the boss and should much less effect on the gear seat size.


I dont like this idea. You'll have unknown interference and not wanting interference on the gear is how we got here .

Stuart

p.s. I dont know how big your lathe is but is it possible you've tighten your 4jaw(?) to much and deformed the tube?

Yes Stuart it is all pretty thin, there is not much to play with and I'm not really happy with the tube.
It's hard not to deform the tube, so I really need 2 plugs, 1 inside the tube at the chuck end also.
I machined the tube in my macson lathe as that has fixed steady that would accommodate the tube, the tube being out of round to start with doesnt help, but I think if i can get a reasonable bore at each end and the use a centering plug for the rest of the machining i might get somewhere, I would like that boss to very lightly press on.
Then I spoze I could still take a whisker off the boss for the gear after it is welded.

thanks... shed