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Thread: How do I....

  1. #1
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    Default How do I....

    Hi all,

    I need to cut a 110mm wide roll of aluminium flashing into two 55mm strips.
    The roll is approx. 125mm dia.

    Was thinking of making an old fashioned wooden mitre box of suitable size and cutting the roll with a fine toothed saw.
    Final width of each strip is not really critical but close to 55mm would be good. Obviously this will depend on the width of saw used.
    A slow and gentle approach what I am after.

    Any thoughts or suggestions?

    The 'highly trained' youth in my local Bunnings said I should just line it up in a drop saw and "let it rip".
    Could get nasty !!!

    Regards, Peter

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sheds View Post
    Hi all,

    I need to cut a 110mm wide roll of aluminium flashing into two 55mm strips.
    The roll is approx. 125mm dia.

    Regards, Peter
    Sounds like a job a 4x6 metal bandsaw could do.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  4. #3
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    Hi Peter,
    Is it tightly rolled? If so the drop saw would be what i would use.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #4
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    Why not just cut it with a normal hacksaw? Wrap a layer of masking tape to stop it unrolling, and mark the cut all the way around on the tape.
    Rotate it every so often as you cut to make sure you are going straight.

    Ray

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    I had to do something similar once and end up making a simple slitter using a Stanley blade and pulling the foil past the blade mounted in a bar and then onto a second drum and then just keep winding. One roll into two. took a bit to set up and only took a few minutes to cut.

    R
    vapourforge.com

  7. #6
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    Thank you for your suggestions. The main difficulty with most sawing options is how to firmly hold the relatively narrow roll, hence the mitre box idea.
    Guess I could put it in a vice. doesn't really matter if it the roll gets squashed.

    Thanks again. Peter.

  8. #7
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    Default The Roll.

    Hi Peter,
    Drop saw doesn't sound good to me, but Horses for courses.
    I wood wrap the Roll up tight, tape it up approx. middle of what will be each roll. Put another tape around the middle, measure & mark the centre.
    Wooden " V" Block, if needed, & cut with the Bandsaw, 6tpi. wood be better than 4tpi.
    I wood also use a piece of Ply/ Mdf, as like most Saws the centre plastic is a mile wide, & this will reduce the cut to be a bit better.
    Have fun with this.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    Hi Peter,
    Drop saw doesn't sound good to me, but Horses for courses.
    +1

    Not on soft aluminium.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nearnexus View Post
    +1

    Not on soft aluminium.

    Rob
    Ever tried it? As long as it is rolled up tight it will be fine. If it is not tight though any form of power cutting will be a problem.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Ever tried it? As long as it is rolled up tight it will be fine. If it is not tight though any form of power cutting will be a problem.

    Ew

    No, I've never tried it.

    I may have misunderstood your terminology - I was thinking chop saw type drop saw (with a friction disc).

    If you mean use a saw blade in the drop saw then that would be OK provided it was not too coarse, although I think a BS would be less prone to tearing.

    Rob
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    But at least you tried.



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    Definitely a miter saw with tct blade, I have no idea how a friction saw would go, but I wouldnt try it!
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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    Totally agree on that.

    Cheers

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Definitely a miter saw with tct blade, I have no idea how a friction saw would go, but I wouldnt try it!
    Ew
    A high count negative rake toothed blade will made it easier.
    Lubing blade with hard wax (several times) will help a lot.
    I've watched my BIL ally boat builder do this with solid ally bar and tube a few times.
    The swarf is nasty, - I suggest using a full face shield and a snood head cover.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Definitely a miter saw with tct blade, I have no idea how a friction saw would go, but I wouldnt try it!
    Ew
    From my experience with friction cutting sheet aluminium, it will be all bad - the layers of flashing will get fused at the cutting face.

  16. #15
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    i have heard of them cutting roofing iron with the old style none TCT blades but with the blade in the wrong way round , as in teeth facing the other way , not as savage .maybe that would work .

    johno
    'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'

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