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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Default hows this sound for a welding/work bench?

    ok im just getting into wleding and the like so can u tell me if thi swill work.
    3mm steel plate top 2400x900 and fo rthe legs i will use gal 25mm box as it seems to be cheaper then painted steel of the same size.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    3mm may/will be to lite for any heavy fabrication work,exspecially if you tack to it,it will if too much heat or if tacks are to big distort.
    For a plate the size you mention you would I think need to put braces at least every 300mm to atleast give it a bit of ridgidity.

  4. #3
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    Nov 2009
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    Rockhampton
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    i dont think i would ever tack to it. yea i was planning aheap of braces would 5mm do?

    the bench top is 85kg then.

    would 3mm be fine if i don't weld to it?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by gros21 View Post
    i dont think i would ever tack to it. yea i was planning aheap of braces would 5mm do?

    the bench top is 85kg then.

    would 3mm be fine if i don't weld to it?
    2.4 x 0.9 x 0.003 x 7800 = ~50 kg

    FWIW, I'm making one about 1/3rd that size (900 x 800) and I don't plan to tack to it either and I'm planning a 6 mm ally top. The frame is going to be made of 76 x 38 x 1.6 RHS mainly because I have a heap of this. The ally top won't rust and weld spatter won't stick to it so when I want to lay something out on it, it will be flat We have a steel top 1.8 x 1.2 m table at work and that is impossible to work on without getting out the grinder and removing the spatter.

  6. #5
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    Nov 2009
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    80 kg would be for 5mm

    how much is alloy?

    as a 6mm top the same size would only be 35kg

  7. #6
    Join Date
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by gros21 View Post
    80 kg would be for 5mm

    how much is alloy?

    as a 6mm top the same size would only be 35kg
    Yep it's not cheap and it needs more support underneath it but it pays for itself in setup time really quickly.

    It depends what you will be welding. I do mainly small stuff and I only have space for a small table so it works for me.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Bondoola
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    I would make the frame from 50x50x3 mm RHS with good bracing all round. The top is a little thin. I would go for at least 5mm but my own preference would be 6mm. I wouldn't use ally (aluminium?) as it is far to soft and you cant bang or bash a hammer on it without damaging it. If the bench is going to be used over a long period of time, I would build one that I would be proud of. You don't want to have to build two benches to get one really good one. By having a really good bench, you will find many other uses for it after it is built.

  9. #8
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    Nov 2009
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    Rockhampton
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    i wanta longer bench so when i ca weld i can knock up some rock sliders.

    yea i was thinking a thicker walled RHS.

    how deep would u make it is 900 to deep or would 600 be the go.


    what about adding a electronic rust shield to prevent surface rust. we have them now on the sheds to stop rust.

  10. #9
    Dave J Guest

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    I would go 6mm at least. 3mm will even buckle from the sun if it's welded to the frame.

    Dave

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
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    703

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gros21 View Post
    i wanta longer bench so when i ca weld i can knock up some rock sliders.

    yea i was thinking a thicker walled RHS.

    how deep would u make it is 900 to deep or would 600 be the go.


    what about adding a electronic rust shield to prevent surface rust. we have them now on the sheds to stop rust.
    Why build something of a compromise when you can buy a good one ready made. Here is one on Ausie eBay at the moment, and if you want a better selection, have a look at US eBay, just type in welding table into the search box. No need for the electronic rust guard, it'll never rust out in our lifetime..
    Seriously though, I would build it in steel, or look to the auction pages, as lots come up as factories close. I made mine years ago, 1,1/2 X 1/4 angle iron frame, sides and back in 1/8th plate and 6'x4' x1/2" top. I painted the sides and back with red oxide primer and never got around to putting a finish coat on, but no rust in over 20 years, and o.k. the top doesn't shine, but I could weld without having to grind it back to get a good earth. If it did rust over, all it would take to fix it would be a quick run over with a belt sander or flapper disc, and a wipe over with an oily rag every now and then keeps it looking good.
    If I need to, I can tack to it, but if I am having trouble striking an arc with some cranky electrodes, I don't use the bench to get it going, but a small but weighty piece of scrap, I can place nearby if the need arises. That top is strong, - I could use a sledge hammer on it and nothing would bend, but the eBay ones are better! Cheers,
    Rob.
    Welding Pattern table heavy cast weight over 1 tonne | eBay

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Bondoola
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    All my benches either for welding, woodwork or general use are 900mm wide. Any narrower and there is not enough space/area for setting up with jigs, clamps etc. If you made the bench 600mm wide you will be very disappointed.
    A long or bulky job is very hard to support on a narrow bench.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Gros21, you've opened up a can of worms with the electronic rust protection, so I'm not even going to go there ! Regarding the bench:
    • make sure you pay attention to getting your work bench flat (i.e. not warped) - won't regret the time taken with this. so people build in adjustable dog and wedge/scrwe systems so they can adjust for flatness periodically.
    • 3mm is really thin for a work bench top, go thicker and you won't regret it that either.
    • same with the 25mm tube, too flimsy - go for 40x40 at least
    • I have a 6mm mild steel work top and it's a pain because of surface rust. After a while it's hard to get a good earth through it and you get arc strikes on your work unless you put the earth clamp directly on the piece. I sand it down occassionally, but I'm probably going to put a stainless skin (say 2mm) over mine for most work.
    • Make sure you leave an overhang edge on the top to make clamping easy.
    Cheers

    - Mick

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