Thread: Indian - R8 Boring & Facing Head

Did you confirm with the seller that they are a Facing head?
What did you mean by at that price they would only be manual,do they make an auto Facing and Boring head,if so how do they work?

Hi Stewart,

I was going to suggest that you check the CTC prices before you buy,

3" Boring head with R8 7/16" 20TPI shank & 12 PCS 3/4" boring bars #H61

but I see it's too late. It would be interesting to compare the quality. I notice that same ebay seller also is selling Mitutoyo stuff at higher than US retail prices...


Regards
Ray

PS...Like PC I'm also wondering what they mean by facing?

Ray, that's sales talk.... you can set the boring tool radially to 'face' or spot face. In practical terms that's nonsense, because you would have to adjust the radius manually every one or two revolutions....

I have considered (briefly) what would be involved to make some sort of ratchet attachment to my boring head, that engages with a pawl fixed to the mill on every revolution and advances the adjustment by one tooth each pass. If the ratchet was large enough with with enough teeth, that might allow automatic facing (at very low speed).
Any thoughts?
Joe

Originally Posted by jhovel

I have considered (briefly) what would be involved to make some sort of ratchet attachment to my boring head, that engages with a pawl fixed to the mill on every revolution and advances the adjustment by one tooth each pass. If the ratchet was large enough with with enough teeth, that might allow automatic facing (at very low speed).
Any thoughts?
Joe

A few pictures on PM and HSM of people who have done just that...

Richard,
oh really? Must have been there before my joining. I missed those. I'll do some searches. Thanks!
Joe

Hi Stewart
I am just wondering why you went with the Indian one instead of a Chinese one? As for that price they come with a good range of boring bars. Mine is Taiwanese so I cant comment on the quality of the Chinese ones from CTC, but I am sure someone on here has bought one.
I also noticed when I enlarged the picture of yours that the dial is marked in 0.02mm graduations, I hope that is on diameter and not radius. My one is marked in 0.01mm graduations but that is on radius (direct).

Please let us know whats it's like when you get it, as it may well be better than the Chinese ones.

Dave

Originally Posted by jhovel

Richard,
oh really? Must have been there before my joining. I missed those. I'll do some searches. Thanks!
Joe

Hey Joe,

I have some 20 year old copies of Model Engineers' Workshop. One has an article written by a bloke, Don Unwin on constructing an automatic boring and facing head.

I will photocopy the article and post you a copy. Send me your address.

BT

Hi Bob,
I will get a copy as well if you don't mind.

Dave

HI All,
Pipeclay No I didn't Confirm that they are a Facing Head. I Said that by the Price that they would only be Manual, because I can't see any Seller selling an Automatic Boring and Facing Head at that Price. They don't list an Auto Boring & Facing Head on their Ebay Site, might be worth asking them though that is if this one im getting is any good. Also from Pictures of Auto Boring & Facing Heads that I have seen it does not like one of them. How they Work, well I have never used one or seen one used so I can only Go by what I found on the Internet.

The Following is from Internet Research An Automatic Boring & Facing has some type of feed Mechanism in it to make it Feed Automatically or Semi - Automatically. Apparently with some of them they have a Knurled Ring around their outside and You hold onto that and it makes them Work - I would assume that You either Reverse the Milling Machine or wind the Unit backwards to return it its start position. Other Types I assume do it Automatically. The One in the Pictures is an interesting looking Unit its an Everede Tool Boring & Facing Head - R8 Shank, I am not certain how it Works. I have also Posted some Instructions for a selection of Wohlhaupter Boring & Facing Heads.

I don't want a 3" (75mm) Boring head, I only have a DM-45 Mill Drill. I am a bit concerned that when the head is fully offset or close to it that it may cause the mill to Vibrate ?. I already have a 50mm Boring Head that I bought of Ozmestore in the past - I think from memory it was Chinese. If I didn't need to do an Urgent Job with it when I got it, I would have sent it back. The Boring Head works fine, but what annoys me is its backlash. The backlash is not in the Screw Thread, but it is in the Groove in the Screw Head that makes the movable part of the head move. The Head adjustment Screw is graduated to '50' and '20' of that is backlash. It is a pain if You overwind the Screw and have to wind it back.
I was thinking Today maybe if I cut a Shim Washer and Super Glued it in place to take out the excessive backlash. Otherwise it would mean making a new Screw and then Graduating it.

The Don Unwin Boring & Facing Head - Yeah thats Interesting, I found this Model Engineering Homepage Page 8. and this Automatic Boring and Facing Head Article by Don Unwin (Digital Edition) - Article Archive - Model Engineers' Workshop - Magazines - My Hobby Store .

Hi Bob,
I received my copy, thanks, much appreciated Bob.

You must have a large photo copier.

Dave

Thanks a lot Bob. Mine arrived in the mail last night.
Interesting article. I will have a look if I can adapt some of the ideas to my old American boring head.
Joe

HI ALL,
Well it turned up. Initial thoughts were it looks Goods. It is a Nicely made Boring Head, BUT the Backlash is far to excessive - each Division = 0.02mm now there is 25 divisions of Backlash so 0.5mm. The Backlash is caused the by the boss (or wheel) on the Screw that fits into the groove in the moveable partof the Boring Head being to loose of a fit. The Backlash could be Shimmed out, but thats not the Point.

What do You Guys reckon are the Industry Standards for R8 Drawbar Threads?, I've only ever seen it listed as being 7/16 - 20 or 12mm x 1.75.
The Indians have Threaded the Boring Head for a Drawbar with a Thread of 12mm x 1.5. I was only able to Work the Thread out, because I had a Socket Head Cap Screw out of some Car that had the right Thread. As far as I know 12mm x 1.5 is a Metric Special Thread, I see there are Chinese Dies on Ebay for that Thread.

The Item is usable, but I have Requested a Return Address to return the Item. It looks like I was the only Mug who Bought one too.

Bruce "Abratool" not long ago, purchased a small boring head that maybe of sub continental origin. Bruce is currently at the seaside impersonating Johnny Weissmuller. I'm sure he will post a report on the quality, or lack of, of his recent acquistion along with an appraisal of a locally purchased chuck he required for his Royal drill arbor.

I will send him a link to this thread so that he knows I've dobbed him in.

BT

Originally Posted by steran50

HI ALL,
Well it turned up. Initial thoughts were it looks Goods. It is a Nicely made Boring Head, BUT the Backlash is far to excessive - each Division = 0.02mm now there is 25 divisions of Backlash so 0.5mm. The Backlash is caused the by the boss (or wheel) on the Screw that fits into the groove in the moveable partof the Boring Head being to loose of a fit. The Backlash could be Shimmed out, but thats not the Point.

What do You Guys reckon are the Industry Standards for R8 Drawbar Threads?, I've only ever seen it listed as being 7/16 - 20 or 12mm x 1.75.
The Indians have Threaded the Boring Head for a Drawbar with a Thread of 12mm x 1.5. I was only able to Work the Thread out, because I had a Socket Head Cap Screw out of some Car that had the right Thread. As far as I know 12mm x 1.5 is a Metric Special Thread, I see there are Chinese Dies on Ebay for that Thread.

The Item is usable, but I have Requested a Return Address to return the Item. It looks like I was the only Mug who Bought one too.

The draw bar sounds like an odd ball thread size. Was that 0.02mm on radios or diameter? H&F have a 50mm one on special at the moment for $77 without arbour.

Dave