Thread: Insert screws

TradeTools have a 17 piece impact driver set at a reasonable price. Mainly slotted and philips head but I think it might include a socket head that would take the smaller available torx bits.

https://www.tradetools.com/products/5171

> A few random questions re M2.5 and M3 torx head insert screws.
> Does anyone have a source for reasonably priced good quality screws?

I am myself short of M2.5. But I once bought a bag of 100 M3 insert torx screws, good quality high tensile German Plansee brand. I sell these in bags of 10 for $10 plus postage (letter).

> How many uses do you get out of a screw before you need to resort to Drastic Measures to remove it?

If you use good quality screws (the ones sold by top brand name tool names are top quality) then the screw will often outlast the toolholder. The most common reason to replace such screws is dropping them into a pile of chips or a dirty floor and loosing them.

The problem is this: with cheap toolholders (those from China or India) you get cheap torx screws. These are not really high tensile and will stretch in use. Once stretched they begin to damage and strip the thread in the toolholder. You see, the toolholder is usually just a soft steel, softer even than a cheap non high tensile torx screw. Once the thread in the toolholder is damaged, you can toss away the toolholder together with the torx screw. That is why with cheap indexable toolholders, the very first thing you should do is toss the cheap torx screw and replace with good ones. And with good brand name toolholders, never replace a lost screw with a cheap noname torx screw - always only use high tensile torx screws of known origin. These usually cost about around $2 each, unless you buy a bag.

> How tight is tight enough when you put the screw in?

Look at the tool that comes with the better toolholders. It is not really an angled key. It is a straight key, with a small plastic flag, to limit the torque that you can apply. You grip the plastic flag and tighten just finger tight, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!! And very important is "workshop hygiene". Meaning when replacing or turning an insert, first CAREFULLY clean the insert, then the insert seat, then the thread in the toolholder, then the Torx screw. Blue-tack works well at cleaning the insert seat. WD40 spray will clean the threads. If you leave fine metal dust on the thread, you WILL soon strip the thread in the toolholder.

> I swear that even though I use anti-seize those little buggers get tighter over time.

If they get tighter, you may have soft cheese screws that stretch.

> Does anyone have a source for a small impact driver (the type that you hit with a hammer) and suitable torx bits? I was thinking something like that could be a more reliable method of removing the screws.

Torx is one of the best head there is to transmit torque. You are doing something wrong.

> For those who alter allen head screws into insert screws, how successful are they and do you still have occasional removal problems?

You cannot use allen screws. These insert torx screws have a particular, steeper angle than ordinary countersunk screrws. Also, these insert torx screws are high tensile and hardened, not something easy to substitute or to make your own. Do not reinvent the wheel, it's not necessary in this case. Just use quality Torx screws, do not overtighten, and work clean!


Chris