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  1. #16
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    Ok Bob, I understand now, and appreciate your original question as what to do. Other than the wear, how does it run with the shafts aligned, even if turning by hand? Does it feel right? It does seem odd that they would be misaligned, especially if babbitt was poured, as they would have 2 chances to get the alignment correct; once when they machined the housing and a second time when they poured the bearings.

    Sorry I've got nothing, just an opinion, and it's probably wrong so I'll sit on it. I'm keen to see how you're going to bore that casting. Sounds like a good job for ... sigh ... wheel in Richard ... a horizontal borer .

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  3. #17
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    Ballina N.S.W.
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    Pete
    Good to see that you could make sense of my description of the problem.Richards horizontal borer would be handy,it is an awkward shaped machine to set up. The distance between the bearing housing is over 500mm. My current plan is to mount a substantial beam on top of the bearing housings running parallel with the shaft with three flange bearings suspended under it and run the 1" boring bar in these. I think I can then position the drill in line with my mill,with the head laid over horizontally.I will post some pictures when I get the setup sorted.Thanks for your input.
    Bob

  4. #18
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    Hi Bob,
    waited and waited for people to leave so I could take the pics and eventually gave up on that and took the pics anyway.
    A few comments on the use of a camera in the 1850's, especially a digital one were expected and I wasn't disappointed.
    I have tried my best for alignment with the lens but suffice it to say it is standard bevel gear alignment, ie smack bang in the centre.

    Phil
    DSCN1709.jpg DSCN1712.jpg DSCN1713.jpg DSCN1714.jpg

  5. #19
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    Hi Phil,
    Thanks a lot for taking the time and effort to get the pictures.I am pleased to see that the alignment is as I believed it should be. I will now sort out my boring set up to realign mine.
    Bob

  6. #20
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    Glad I could help Bob. (Not something I get to do very much)
    If you need anymore details, don't hesitate to ask.

    Phil

  7. #21
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    Hi All,
    I am in the process of building a suitable jig to enable me to line bore the Jones & Shipman drills top shaft housings. This drill has a 1.250" diameter shaft currently running in two babbitt bearings,one three inches long on the rear and a five inch long one on the front (bevel gear end). I have purchased a 12" length of bronze bearing to make two bushes out of and now have to make two decisions. Firstly should I use oil or grease as the lubricant for these two bronze bearings. Secondly the bearing/bush clearance for oil or grease. All advise appreciated.
    Bob

  8. #22
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Bob,
    I would use oil. Leave about .002" for clearance maybe?

    On the Hercus the bronze bushed all have oil cups, but even better about the middle 1/3rd of the bearing has had a 1/2" endmill run right through it lengthways. These slots have a felt pad in them that is fed by the oil cup, continually wiping the shaft with oil.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  9. #23
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    Apr 2009
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    Ballina N.S.W.
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    Hi Ew,
    Thanks a lot for your reply. The wide slot with the felt pad sounds like a good idea. The original babbitt bearings had an .125" semi circular groove roughly cut into them running almost the entire length to distribute the oil.On the side of both bearing housings on my drill there is a hole that was made to pour the babbitt through a bit over .500" diameter, I was intending to use these to fit in oilers or grease fittings and also to secure the bushes from turning in the housings. I will only be able to have around .125" wall thickness on the bronze bearings as I did not want to exceed the original babbitt thickness and weaken the casting. I could open up the top oil holes to fit in oilers as well. Which option do you favour?
    Bob

  10. #24
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    Definitely oil Bob.

    Phil

  11. #25
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    Thanks Phil, oil it is. I do like that felt insert idea. I will have to find some suitable sized oilers, any leads on these.
    Bob

  12. #26
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    Hi Bob,
    This bloke sells them. I am not sure of the quality but he will be at lake goldsmith in a couple of weeks and I can check them out for you.
    http://www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/oilers-1/

    Phil

  13. #27
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    Hi Phil,
    They look good,if you get a chance I would appreciate you giving them the once over.
    Bob

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Hi Phil,
    They look good,if you get a chance I would appreciate you giving them the once over.
    Bob
    Will do Bob.

    Phil

  15. #29
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    Apr 2009
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    Default Progress on rebuild

    Hi All,
    I thought it was time I showed some of the work that I have done on this drill rebuild. When I brought it one of the first things I noticed was that there was no change mechanisms for either of the shafts/gears to enable back gear selection. I felt it needed a system to engage and disengage the two mechanisms,and importantly hold them in the selected position. I searched all over trying to find some pictures of the missing mechanisms, even Tony from UK Lathes could not supply any details of the missing mechanisms.It is surprising how many different designs there are for these "Camel Back" drills and very few use the same mechanisms.
    As there was only one machined face that was suitable to use as base starting point, I designed and built the following set up. It now works as it should and you end up with clean hands with all fingers intact. A little bit still to do to finish the mechanisms and they will be ready to paint.
    I have also made up a set of dog gears to replace the broken ones that I have shown previously. I changed my original idea of locating the gears with pins. I machined matching stepped spigots in both parts and cut "V" to allow the brazing to get a good grip. A few pictures to show the results.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #30
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    Default Line Boring Jones & Shipman drill.

    Hi All,
    I have just finished line boring the top shaft bearing housings on my J &S drill. I used a piece of 4"*2" steel channel as the backbone to mount the three flange bearings onto.The middle bearing is adjustable in its position to give better support at the end being bored.This machine does not have lot of places to attach to so I made use of all of the machined faces plus some to make it as rigid as I could.On the quill end I made up a steel sleeve to fit into the quills casting and held it in place with a piece of 16mm threaded bar and a large washer,on the top I welded a piece of heavy angle iron across the top,this also serves as the lower attachment point for the front flange bearing plate.
    At the other end of the shaft I mounted a piece of 50mm * 50mm *2mm RHS tube cut down to suit. This was filled with fibre glass reinforced body filler to enable it to match the contour of the casting. It also has a blind dowel inside it which locates in a hole in the casting and the threaded rod clamps at the top keep it in place.The boring bar is a piece of 1" diameter bright steel bar I had in stock (very straight for a change). I made two sets of tool locating fixtures in it. I used 5mm * .8mm pitch grub screws for both the tool locking and adjusting set ups. I worked out that with an allen key in the grub screw and turning it one flat of the hexagon gave me just a bit over .005" depth of cut. I then turned up a piece of 1.5" diameter bar with four steps in it to use as measuring tool as I got close. The last two steps are .005" to match the allen key adjustments. This worked out to be very accurate.
    As you can see I used up a lot of pieces from my off cut box for this project and only had to buy the three flange bearings and the two universal joints. My mill was used as the power and feed source. By using the double universal joints it produced a very smooth operation with hardly any vibration,when cutting the babbitt material you could not feel it or hear it.The drill is just sitting on the floor on four ball ended pieces of 16mm threaded bar.I used a speed of 200RPM and .oo6" feed rate with a depth of cut varying between .010"-.005". As usual with this type of job the set up time was way longer than the actual boring.A few pictures showing the set up.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

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