Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 55
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default Jones and Shipman pics for Bob (Krisfarm)

    Hi Bob,
    here are the pics of the Jones and Shipman camelback drill at work.

    Let me know if you need more. I have to pull it apart at some stage for a rebuild but I have a long list ahead of this one at the moment.
    If there is anything you would like to see though it won't be a problem to remove covers or housings and take pics.

    Phil
    IMG_5207.jpg IMG_5208.jpg IMG_5210.jpg IMG_5211.jpg IMG_5214.jpg IMG_5216.jpg IMG_5220.jpg IMG_5221.jpg IMG_5222.jpg IMG_5226.jpg IMG_5228.jpg IMG_5229.jpg IMG_5230.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default Jones & Shipman Drill Press

    Hi Phil,
    Thanks for the great pictures,they are a great help,there is a lot of similar parts on your drill.The gear change mechanism for the down feed is a little different. The picture of the table height adjuster handle will give me a good idea of what I need to build, I had to build a temporary one out of a piece of hexagon as the table needs to be raised slightly before you release the lock latch,without a handle to hold it the table would go into free fall. I have made a temporary dolly to bolt the drill to so that I can move it outside to clean as much accumulated grime from it. My water blaster has unearthed some serious damage to the dog clutch teeth on the main handle. I will take some pictures of it tomorrow and see what advise forum members can suggest for repairs. Sorry for the slow response to your post I have was tied up yesterday.
    Bob

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Hi Phil and everyone
    Here is an update on my project.I have introduced the drill to my water blaster for the first time and removed the majority of the accumulated build up,one more go should get the balance off.I have made a trolley for it which makes it a lot easier to handle. I have feed up all of the frozen fittings and removed the stuck MT3 taper and drill. A standard drill drift had no effect on dislodging it so I made up a double taper set and two hits later it popped out,used the same drifts to remove the MT2 taper drill from the MT3. As you can see the dog teeth on the main arm have been sheered off (so much for the previous owners assurance that it work fine last time he used it). My thoughts on a repair are to obtain a new set of dogs, face back the handle and the gear and drill two locating pins in each part and braze them on. All suggestions /fixes would be appreciated. The broken lug on the table to be brazed back on maybe with a dowel as well if sufficient wall thickness. A few pictures, I may have to do two posts.
    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #4
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,467

    Default

    Hi Bob,
    Sure looks like you have a lot more work to do on yours than I do!

    Is the feed gearbox powered by a worm on the top shaft?

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Bob,
    Sure looks like you have a lot more work to do on yours than I do!

    Is the feed gearbox powered by a worm on the top shaft?

    Cheers,
    Ew
    Hi Ueee,
    Yes you got a beauty,this one will require a bit more effort. Yes the feed is driven by a worm on the top, if you have a look at picture that shows the back gear engaged you can see the worm over on the right hand side.
    Bob

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default Bevel gear alignment

    Hi All,
    I have been steadily scraping off all of the accumulated grime and flaking paint,cleaning and dismantling my J&S drill press and finding all of the areas that need attention. Nearly all the keys are worn some were replaced before with ones totally the wrong size. My plan is to clean it all up and then rebuild it back to operational condition, I will take a bunch of pictures as I go. I have just disassembled the top drive shaft that has the belt pulleys on one end and the bevel gear pinion gear on the other. This shaft runs in babbitt bearings and they are very badly worn,I measured 0.025" play in the pinion end of the shaft before disassembling. After removing the pinion gear it would appear to me that this casting housing has been machined out of alignment horizontally. With the original shaft in place the extended centre line of the vertical shaft (Quill) and the pinion shaft intersect.This I believe is how bevel gear sets should be aligned. I intend to line bore the top two bearing housings and fit brass bearings. Looking at the original boring that was done on the pinion bearing housing and using this as a locating point would result in the two axis not meeting. All of the other machining that I have seen on this drill is accurate. My question is can anyone see any reason for this misalignment on the original,as now is a good time to correct the alignment. A few pictures to hopefully show the problem area.
    Bob
    PS For some reason I cannot upload pictures at this time.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Bob it's not clear from the pictures how the two shafts don't meet. The camera angle isn't in line with the shaft. I'd be hesitant to "correct" anything at this stage, especially where the problem isn't fully understood. In this type of situation I feel it's better to rebuild it as the manufacturer did, and always wonder why, rather that "correcting a fault" only to discover further down the track exactly why it was like that! The chances are if it's got this far into its life it's not doing too badly with the "fault"

    I would suggest bearing bronze rather than brass for your bearings.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Age
    74
    Posts
    6,132

    Default

    Hi Bob,

    I can't offer any help for the shaft alignment... but have you thought of re-casting the babbitt bearings? http://www.wikihow.com/Pour-Babbitt-Bearings

    Never having done it, I'm curious to see if there are any tricks to the process...

    Ray

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Pete & Ray,
    Thanks for your reply's.
    Pete I had a lot of trouble for some unknown reason uploading pictures yesterday. The three that I finally managed took about an hour to do,in the end I ran out of time. I have a lot of others I will try and upload later today which should give a clearer picture - have to dash out now. I agree with your thoughts on modifications of the original set up, particularly as none of the other parts have been machined poorly. My use of brass was only generic.
    Ray
    I did think of recasting the bearings. This drill does not have two piece housings and I have no facilities to cast. Hence my choice for the bronze approach.
    Bob.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Pete F
    I have finally had a bit of time to look at my computer, I reseated the ram and it is back to operating normal again.Here are the balance of the pictures that I tried to post yesterday,I hope this makes it a bit clearer.One thing to take note of is that the shaft that has the two cones attached is 1" in diameter,the vertical quill shaft is 1.25" in diameter.This 1" shaft is shown in the photo's with the white paper background as well.The cones are seated on the bearing housings "original" machined seats, not the worn bearings. The photo's posted yesterday are of the original shafts in their current operating positions, for an alignment comparison only,they have achieved this position by chewing away on side of the babbitt bearing and in doing this the extended centre line of both shafts meet as I understand they should. The extended centre line of the 1" shaft is out of alignment with the quill shaft by an estimated .125". I will be interested in every ones opinion and can any owners of Camel Back drills check out the alignment of their drills shafts.
    BobAttachment 326683Attachment 326684Attachment 326685Attachment 326686Attachment 326687
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default

    Hi Bob, I will take the camera to work today and get some pics. Phil

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    Bob I'm not sure I properly understand. I thought you said the misalignment was caused due to manufacturing? If the misalignment is caused by wear in the babbitt, I'd personally pick up the original bore, which should be relatively straight forward. Because of the thrust of the gears, I'd expect it to wear just as it has. I've never poured babbitt, so can't comment definitively, but if babbitt bearings were being used I can't see any good reason that the bores would have to be in particular alignment as the shaft will be aligned with the pour. One would think that if one was to bore holes for bearings they'd ensure they were aligned, but I don't think it would be necessary in this instance.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Hi Phil & Pete,
    Thanks both for your input greatly appreciated.
    Phil thanks you,I am looking forward to your pictures.
    Pete I think you are on the wrong track,the wear in the babbitt has corrected the misalignment,not caused it, as they stand now with all of the wear the extended centre lines of both shafts intersect.The shaft running in the babbitt has worn almost right through the babbitt on the left side of the bearing housing as shown in the original three photos, this excessive wear I think has been mostly caused by not being aligned correctly originally. All of the information I have read for aligning bevel gears states that the extended centre lines of both shafts must intersect,this is the case now with the badly worn babbitt. As I would like to fit bronze bearings and have the extended centre lines intersect I would have to use the worn babbitt bore as my location position for the cones on the 1"boring shaft. Centreing on this position would be approximately .125" further to the left than the existing machined bore that is in the bearing housing. I know this would be much easier if you could see the job rather than trying to understand my descriptions.
    Bob

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,659

    Default

    Hi Bob,
    to take a pic at work I nhave to wait until there are no visitors around as I am not allowed to be seen with a camera.
    I went into the blacksmiths shop and wiped stuff down waiting for the moment when the visitors weren't looking as I needed to climb up on the drill table so I could align the camera for the pic.
    The chance arrived, I climbed up onto the drill table, balanced myself precariously, pressed the shutter button, and nothing.
    I looked at the screen and it says "lens error'". I tried it again and again and again, same thing.
    What is annoying is that I'm home now and gave it another shot and the damn thing is working now.
    I did a visual and the horizontal shaft is situated exactly (I know I am going to regret that word) in the centre of the vertical one. Caveat: exactly as is visually possible
    Tomorrow I will be taking Big Bertha Nikon, the Coolpix and the Iphone. One of them should work

    Phil

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ballina N.S.W.
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Hi Phil,
    I know that feeling,when tried to add attachments to my original post I pressed the button and nothing happened. Earlier today I noticed that only one of my pictures from my second post came up the others had disappeared into "compterland". Thanks for your trouble,I am not in a hurry,this project is a bit like eating an Elephant one bit at a time. I am sure you will get some good shots.
    Bob

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. RIP George Jones and Bob Brozman
    By Ball Peen in forum Music
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30th April 2013, 05:30 PM
  2. Jones and Shipman drill press 1932
    By jgforsberg in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 26th June 2012, 06:15 PM
  3. Dr. Smith and Dr. Jones
    By bullfright in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 27th April 2011, 09:27 AM
  4. chas jones web site
    By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 20th September 2010, 12:21 PM
  5. Alan Jones
    By Dan in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 20th October 2004, 07:21 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •