Thread: New Lathe

Another brand same size was 16 amps. Hard wired is not a serious problem but 20 amp plugs sockets are available.

Dean

Best of luck with the transport today Dean. Don't forget the camera

Phil

Thanks Phil. It is home. It was an uneventful but slow trip. Only saw one roo and her baby. They behaved. It took about 10 mins to load. My sled bolts lined up perfect. I can tell you it cost me $850.00. There is a rear chip guard which I have not got yet. The lathe is still sitting on the trailer in my implement shed.

Attachment 215331

I waited until I got home to take pics.

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The rear which I have not had a good look at before.

Attachment 215333

These have me a bit baffled. The bottom right piece is the thread chaser dial, I hope. It seems to be missing the dial. The bit next to it has a hole thru the middle although it doesn't look like it. The other side has a locating ring around the hole and machined rear face. There are 2 mounting holes either side of the rib. On the left a rotating (I think) multi (4) adjustable stop thingy. The top item looks like it clamps on the rear of the bed so it sits level, pointing out the back.

I have not used a cam lock chuck before so I am going to need to learn how to change these etc. I have the two chucks, face plate (huge), drive plate which has a t-slot for the drivebar and another plate which has a drive bar mounted on it but does not have cam locks on it but bolts etc in what looks like the same spacing although I did not check this. A moving and fixed steady plus another fixed steady in a different colour and design.

Dean

Well done Dean
Glad to hear the move went well.
The middle thing in the last pic looks like the cap off a bearing journal. Does the machine have a taper turning attachment? If so the large piece on top is probably from that.
I sure wouldn't want to be that trailer.......

Fantastic to see it home Dean,
The item on the left is an adjustable carriage stop. You are correct with the chasing dial, it should mount on the carriage and engage with the leadscrew. The dial is there but there should be what looks like a thin gear underneath.

Phil

Hi Dean,
Good to see it home
I'd say it has/had tapper turning by the look of the back of the carriage and the other part Ewan picked out.

Do you know if its a metric or imp leadscrew? if its metric there should be a 4(?) gears for the thread dial I think.

Wow there is a lot going on in that control box, I guess a two speed motor will do that.

Stuart

Ewan.

Does the machine have a taper turning attachment? If so the large piece on top is probably from that.

Yes it does have taper turning setup with micometer adjustment etc. I suspected that may be the case but had no idea what it does.

I sure wouldn't want to be that trailer.......

Poor trailer! You should see the potholes in the 7km of badly maintained dirt road it had to travel over. Don't feel too bad for it though. I built it strong and you should see the pieces of concrete it had to carry over the same roads earlier this year. Two bits at a time, 8 inches thick, wider than the trailer so it sat on top and nearly as long. I had to fit a normal car tyre as one of the light truck tyres had a puncture and I was out of glue. SWMBO was buying glue in town that day. I blew a tyre after about 8km of 80kmph highway travel. It went off like a rifle just after I turned off and shredded the sidewall. I went home, fixed the other tyre, came back, fitted the wheel and all was good. Same tyres today. The concrete was for pavers around stock troughs.

Phil.

Yes it has a bronze gear underneath. Not thin tho. It lines up with a mount hole on the leading edge of the carriage and engages with the lead screw. It looks like it would fit on either end but the trailing edge is not flat and no hole. You are right that the dial is there. It does not turn tho. Only the shaft turns and that looks like something should fit on it. I only had a short time to look at all this and did not take it all in. Still did not get time to feed hay to cows. I have never seen a seperate chaser like that but that doesn't mean much.

The carriage stop should attach somewhere in front of the carriage should it not? If you look at the first picture, under the tailstock wheel there is another carriage stop looking item that is bigger. Larger adjustment bolts and larger rotating circle. This slides along the outer bed way. A plate stops it sliding off the end. Also under the skirt, the lever that operates the stop system of which the cams on the broken off shaft I have in the shed trying to free up rusted grubscrews operates, is clearly visible. No luck with the rust yet.

Stuart

I'd say it has/had tapper turning by the look of the back of the carriage and the other part Ewan picked out.

Yes it has a taper.....Metric 6mm lead screw. Not sure exactly what you mean by

if its metric there should be a 4(?) gears for the thread dial I think.

Single bronze gear underneath attached to shaft. The threading gears, 127 tooth etc are attached permanently and engaged by turning around the drive gear which is offset.

Control box? 2 speed motor and numerous safety cutouts etc. A brake foot lever engages a brake band onto a section of the motor pulley (belts). Cutoff switch connected to the brake levers. Cutoff switches also attached to control box door, gear train door chuck guard (recently fitted) and 2 emergency stops. I will have to study the circuit diagrams which have been updated I noticed today.(Motor forward/reverse/high/low/transformer/pump start) Light and coolant pump. On that subject I realised today that I will need to provide power for the coolant pump as the VSD will only run the drive motor. Or get a single phase one or something. Another thing! this coolant pump is the one out of my old lathe so I have been led to believe. The other one had a burnt out motor.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Metric 6mm lead screw. Not sure exactly what you mean by "Single bronze gear underneath attached to shaft".

(I think) metric leadscrews need more than one gear for the bottom of the thread chasing dial. Which one you use depends on the pitch you are cutting. My 3mm pitch(I think) leadscrew uses 4 gears(I think).... its to cold outside to check.

Am I right that your control circuits run on 110V?

Stuart

Only one gear visible but there is a chart on the surface above the dial in the pic. was dirty and damaged so have not read it yet. Maybe you are right.

Don't know about the control voltage. I guess that the circuits are all surplus now anyway as drive motor will be run by VSD and everything else will be changed to 240v. I only need a light and coolant pump.

Dean

Dean
I have an identical lathe and the books for it, although I am pretty sure mine has the imperial leadscrew.
Let me know if you want a copy of the manuals.
Will

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

I guess that the circuits are all surplus now

Not just yet, you might want some of the control logic. (who knows my may even choose to keep the two speed motor)

Stuart

Originally Posted by wbleeker

Dean
I have an identical lathe and the books for it, although I am pretty sure mine has the imperial leadscrew.
Let me know if you want a copy of the manuals.
Will

I was thinking today I would have to see if I could get hold of a manual from the supplier so that would be very much a yes please Will.

Dean

Stuart wrote

Am I right that your control circuits run on 110V?

Yes you are right. I have worked out most of the circuit diagram. Only one. The other is an enlarged copy of part of the main one.

I have been trying to work out how the power and controls are going to be set up. Remember I know virtually nothing about VSD's.

The VSD will power the drive motor. It will have variable speed and reverse? This makes the circuits for this motor obselete? What I have been reading is that the connection between the VSD and the motor cannot be disconnected or you risk damaging the VSD. Are you suggesting that the two speed switches can be used to provide 2 speeds? This would momentarily disconnect the VSD? What would the resulting speeds be?

How should I power the light and coolant pump? The coolant pump is 3 phase and the light is 24 volts. I could just set up an LED light run from a seperate 240v transformer.

I spoke briefly to one of the maint guys today who said they had never attached the thread chaser. I think I will wait until I need it before I worry about it. Meanwhile I will just back out and reverse as they have done. I do wish to learn how to use the taper attachment as this lathe has an mt6 taper in the spindle. I have not seen an mt6 taper before. I will want to make a collet holder to fit.

I realised today that I will need to lay a new concrete slab for this lathe. My shed concrete is about 60 years old and is laid in lengthways strips which have lifted and cracked over time. There is a 3 inch step in places. The concrete is only about 3 inches thick. I think I need double that under the lathe. This will mean cutting out the ends of the slabs for most of the width of the shed. A strip for the lathe then maybe 4 inch thick for standing room.

Dean

Pictures pictures.

Some of the circuits maybe obsolete... other not. What I did with my mill is used all the control circuit, just removed the 415V wires and replaced them with the control wires from the vsd. (in the end you may decide to bin the lot but wait awhile)

You cannot disconnect the motor from the VSD while the VSD is driving the motor. You may choose to keep the two speed side of things as long as you only switch speed when the VSD has no output.(you may also choose not to and use the vsd).

The lights depend on the transformer, you might just need to change the primary tap.

Better buy yourself a cement mixer

Stuart