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Thread: New Lathe
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28th June 2012, 09:05 PM #1
New Lathe
Today I found out that a lathe that I had enquired about at work which was sitting around doing nothing was mine for the purchase. A price is being decided. I already have a max price but may be able to do better. I have been discussing the connection of this lathe in the thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/24...ml#post1511939.
This is actually the lathe they bought to replace my lathe when I got the Nuttall.
Attachment 213925
Now they have got a https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L625D.
I have my fingers crossed that nothing will go wrong.
Dean
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28th June 2012 09:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th June 2012, 09:19 PM #2
Hi Dean,
Looks like a decent sized beastie
Shame about the rust on the ways but as you said its not that bad. Do you know if it is a Chinese or Taiwanese machine? Looks like one that Hairy Forbes used to sell. I have an old catalog here somewhere if you want me to dig it out.
Good luck1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th June 2012, 10:13 PM #3
It is Chinese.
Attachment 213939
Took this pic with my phone. Not much room behind due to timber and had to guess the position. Any info would be appreciated.
Dean
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28th June 2012, 10:59 PM #41915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th June 2012, 11:11 PM #5
It is still being made today, High Speed Gap-Bed Lathe Machine (CY-L1640G) - China Gap- Bed lathe Machine,Lathe Machine,Lathe in Lathe
and http://www.coeckemachines.com/Catalo...20CYL1640G.pdf
and CY L1640G - High Speed Gap Bed Lathe - Milling Machine, Milling Machine Malaysia, Used milling machine for sale - UMEQ Equipment & Services1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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28th June 2012, 11:54 PM #6
Yes I did manage to find it but was confused at first by the reference to max length of workpiece of 2000/3000 mm. It appears to be the same machine tho.
What is it that worries you about the chuck guard? The condition of the polycarb? This guard was only fitted about 18 months ago.
Dean
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29th June 2012, 08:36 AM #7
Hi, Oldoneeng,
Grab the Cy lathe and run mate,
If your employer ends up buying the machinery house lathe someone had better get used to disassembling it as they will be doing it often as these lathes will need plenty of restorative maintenance.
The lathe pictured is a slight upgrade on the ones (5x) the school has..
In my 3 years working with them I found:
- Foot brakes on most did not work to operate properly and are a major PITA to adjust.
- The spindle direction was wired backwards- lever down chucks spun away from you.
- Coolant spills on saddles leaked into saddle feed and crossfeed gearboxes (2) eventually causing failures.
- The coolant then drips from the saddle body onto the ground creating an operator slip hazard.
- Compound slide top hat nut ( if screw is unloosened too far) drops into cross feed screw area into swarf tray and is invariably thrown away. I had kids making them in batches and eventually made plugs to fill the hole in the compound slide base to prevent this.
- Bearings in the headstock failed due to either being beaten in(evidence was that the bearing shields were mashed up from the drift) or failed due to cast iron swarf chips entering the roller race through the broken shields. Swarf chips were also picked out of the drillings for the spindle bearings.
- To explain, the spindle bearings are lubed by slash feed and on the top of the gearbox housing there are channels cast into the top where drilled holes supply oil feed to the spindle bearings. Most of the holes had swarf chips partially blocking these holes.
- The tailstock-locking device drove me nuts, as it didn’t lock (securely) after a short period of use and required constant adjustment. Its a major effort as the weight of these units reaches 100kgs and are difficult to remove to access the locking plate to clean and Loctite the adjusting thread. Easier to use an open end spanner on the rear lock plate(yes there’s 2 ,one operated by cam lock and the other drawn up on a bolt)
On the other hand the CL lathe I worked with elsewhere had no problems apart from the tailstock lock loosening( as in above )
Best of luck with the CY lathe if you are lucky enough to acquire it.
Cheers
Grahame
- Foot brakes on most did not work to operate properly and are a major PITA to adjust.
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29th June 2012, 01:13 PM #8
Thanks for that info Grahame. The machinery house lathe is in residence in their new maintenance shed. Because it is out the back of the winery and I am not in good favour with them I rarely go there. SWMBO called in to work one day about 3 weeks ago on the way home from town with some lunch for me. I happenned to be in a position to catch her eye at the other end of the winery from maint shed. She drove straight to me. I was in a wine tanker loading bay (no tankers). I was just crossing the roadway at the time. Because of her position in the loading bay I told her she could drive ahead, hang a left and go out the gate she just came in. When she hung a left this led her down the side of our fairly new premium cellar. This side has a large verandah running the full length.
I got a message from her later saying she saw a metal lathe under this verandah at the far end. This is a place I would very rarely go to. It is used for storage of stuff that needs to be under cover. Anyway I discovered the old maintenance lathe which was bought to replace my old nuttall just before I got that. The point is that it was very very lucky I saw and finally got a chance to ask about the CY. It had already been there some time. Maybe I should print your post and give it to them.
The CY is supposed to be mine but I never count my chickens until they hatch with stuff like this. I have been after an affordable lathe for 25years and now two come up within a couple of years. The max price that was mentioned was $1000.00, but they may do a better deal.
It comes complete with everything intact except the bar which has cams to provide carriage stops was broken off when they tipped it over upon intallation. I have it out in my shed. I grabbed it some time ago from the scrap pile. It is rusty so I cannot undo the cam screws. I was going to cut them now I will try to free them up so I can make new brackets and install it again.
Attachment 213963
This is the cross slide wheel off my nuttall attached to the CY. They pinched this when the CY one got busted in the fall. Now it goes full circle. Back to the nuttall I mean. Maybe.
Dean
Dean
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29th June 2012, 03:09 PM #9Awaiting Email Confirmation
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Dean
Ron mack machinery sells that model lathe,
ROMAC CY1640 LATHE
Grahame
your list looks like my to do list.
does the coolant actually cause wear on the ways ?
sorted the problem with coolant getting into the gearbox, it still gets into the cross slide ways.
thought the coolant would not cause much wear and tear on the cross slide ways.
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29th June 2012, 04:38 PM #10
Oldneweng
Shell out $5 or so for some Oil of Wintergreen AKA Methyl Salicitate. Place some drops on the rusty thread and come back 1/2 hr later.
Seemed to work for the US navy if you can believe the internet. Worked for me with corroded stuff.
I dunno, is it significant that all the machinery came from machinery house and I have had to repair myself or get(electrical) help for
5 x 14 x 1500 lathes
1x HM52 mill
2x Hydraulic presses
1x pan break folder
1 x 1200 x 1.6 guillotine
2 x 350 x 50 pedestal grinders.
The above was not damage from the students(though there are problems in their care and operation of machines) but from poor manufacture or pizz poor electrics
Lather
Gear box will be Ok ,after the cover is pulled off ,the gizzards cleaned up of the corrosion found and re gasketed and refilled with oil.
Don't know about the damage to lathe ways, that' the schools problem now,
I could not cop the time excessive (unpaid) I spent on maintenance and keeping tools and machines up to scratch. Well over half the kids don't know and not interested in finding out-(about proper operation and care of machinesa) or just do not care.
At times,I had to watch up to 20 kids spread out over 1/4 of an acre. I resigned as from last Friday but there are other issues as well.. Some one else can have the heart attack or stroke bought on by the stress. I will give myself a few weeks break and go back into the real world.
Grahame
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29th June 2012, 09:19 PM #11
Thanks Lather. I thought I might be on to a manual there for a moment, but nothing listed. Sigh.
Thanks Grahame. If I can find some I will try it. Chemist I presume would be the place to try first. Or online at $7.20 via getprice.
Is anyone able to help me out with suggestions as to electrical cable cross section to install a 20 amp capable circuit of about 50m which will be installed in open air in roof with some of it with insulation against it. If needed I can run new timber strips to get it above the insulation. Also info re running the cable (Flat 3 core) between the house and shed on a support cable about 6m. I want to run compressed air hose there as well so I can have air in the carport. I priced reels of 4mm and 6mm cable today and was surprised at the price. I expected them to be a lot dearer.
Will probably get the electrician at work to connect it up and will get him to check calcs but I would like to have some idea of what I am going to be up for. I would like to have it all laid ready for a simple hook up. I want a 15 amp gpo for a 3.0kw VSD.
Dean
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30th June 2012, 01:15 PM #12
I have found an online calculator.
JAW's Cable Selection Calculator
I am also considering a 4kw 5hp VSD rated at 16amps.
This info put in the calculator with 20amp startup current (guess) says that I can use 4mm cable.
Can anyone comment on the startup current figure, or any other aspect of this calculation.
Dean
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30th June 2012, 04:50 PM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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30th June 2012, 10:23 PM #14
Hmm. Gremlins got involved again. I had typed a much longer post saying that I was planning on using the 6mm if possible anyway and then did some stuff with the keyboard and, well you know how it happens. I was looking at...... Well it got lost. It was time to get up and do some work so!
Anyway a check on ebay says $174.50 for 50m of 6mm flat cable delivered. I got a price from a local dealer of $368.50 for a 100m roll. I have not yet managed to measure more accurately how much I need so 50m is a guess. I don't think I have much use for 50m of 6mm cable other than connecting my lathe and I have about 90m of 2.5mm cable around somewhere for other wiring. $174.50 is a lot less than I was expecting to pay. So 6mm it will be.
Dean
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30th June 2012, 11:11 PM #15
Check the Bunnings price as well - I just spotted both 4 and 6mm2 cable there today - didn't look at the price though....
Joe
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