Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 40

Thread: My new lathe

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bigphill View Post
    Hi Oohsam
    Nice little lathe you have. I'm envious of the quick change gearbox on it. I bought a 9x20 without a gearbox in 1979/80 ,cost then $2600, and its been rock solid ever since. Also have one of those packs from little machine shop and found the QCTP to be of nice quality,for the money. Hope you have fun and enjoy your new lathe.
    PS Bearing service have the belts for approx. $9.50

    Regards...Phill
    Thanks guys!!

    Phil, cheers mate. I might pop in on the weekend and get a belt to keep as a spare. You know they always break when you're in the middle of something that is urgent. Is that bearing service in Dandenong?


    I finally got all my tools (not all, but enough for now) and fitted the QCTP.
    I totally cleaned up the lathe, degrease, brake cleaner, wd40, all that stinky stuff. Enough to give me a headache, but its clean now.
    I went and bought some scrap stock today. some aluminum, stainless and brass. Just some stuff to practice on and maybe dabble in a few projects. I know none of this is riveting to any of you, but I'm new to all of this so Its quite exciting just cleaning up the stock. I used alot of my range today, did some drilling, and used the live centre to support some long peices. but just getting used to everything. I have a horrendous amount of backlash in the cross slide. Its ridiclous. I need to look into how to fix that up. Anyway some pictures!

    if there's anything that im doing wrong in these pictures, I am open to every type of suggestion or criticsim.
    cheers

    IMG20140611225314.jpgIMG20140611225355.jpgIMG20140611225745.jpgIMG20140611225328.jpgIMG20140611225414.jpgIMG20140611225748.jpgIMG20140611230242.jpgIMG20140611230507.jpgIMG20140611230510.jpgIMG20140611231919.jpgIMG20140611231923.jpgIMG20140611231929.jpgIMG20140611231931.jpgIMG20140612002143.jpgIMG20140612003806.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Malvern East
    Posts
    40

    Default Danger

    You are holding material to far out from the chuck mate in the first couple of pics its to easy for ally to catch and grab and crash 50 mm max for that dia bar looks about 16 mm or less

    Bruce

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Bruce View Post
    You are holding material to far out from the chuck mate in the first couple of pics its to easy for ally to catch and grab and crash 50 mm max for that dia bar looks about 16 mm or less

    Bruce
    I thought it would be ok as that bar is 900mm long and i had it through the spindle bore. it was hanging out the end of the machine on the other side.
    is that ok to do?

  5. #19
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4,467

    Default

    Too much hanging out either end is bad. Through the bore the bar can start to whip around then bend, leading to catastrophic consequences for both the lathe and anything it collects.
    As for overhang out of the chuck, 2.5 times the diameter is a good guide for the maximum. Of course it all depends on the material and the tool being used. You can get away with a much bigger overhang using sharp HSS and small cuts than you can with negative rake carbide and it's usual 1mm+ DOC's.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Thanks guys,
    Duly noted.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    I thought it would be ok as that bar is 900mm long and i had it through the spindle bore. it was hanging out the end of the machine on the other side.
    is that ok to do?
    I have been doing that in the last couple of days with a shaft from the lathe that I am repairing. It is 32mm diameter by 1400mm. I was very limited in gripping points due to parts on it that I am trying to remove. I am only cleaning off the rust so speed was not critical. It also was not balanced. I started slow and worked up. Any vibration and I backed off. One thing I kept in my mind the whole time was the danger of having a spinning shaft hanging out the spindle to entangle me.

    There are ways to deal with your issue. Supporting the shaft in the end of the spindle can help. Having a bearing support near the end of the shaft with an overhead capture bearing is a good idea. I have seen 6m long shafts handled this way, even without the third bearing.

    Dean

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Malvern East
    Posts
    40

    Default Sorry for that short reply

    oohsam

    Sorry for the short reply I was called away as others have said length is not an issue on a lathe that is set up for it for example is the rear of the spindle threaded to take a support bush ?? to stop whip in the shaft. as the speed increases the moments of inertia change for each and every bar tube or pipe / casting you swing on your lathe.

    I suppose you are only playing with your machine at the moment but these are when problems can occur are you turning axles for your kids billy carts ? that's the only time for example a 900 mm piece of material will get loaded into my machines what is more common is to make a part I would have cut the material to length + a chucking allowance and then worked on that

    In my experience and I have had plenty machining borehole column 20 feet long through the headstock of oil field lathe but I had a out board 3 point steady dyna bolted down.

    These a fun times with a new toy to play with, but please do not forget these toys can remove an eye / finger / Hand as quick as a flash they do not care who is around them.

    There was a case in Melbourne 2 years ago where a man was decapitated/ killed with a lathe when the material hanging out the back of the headstock whipped on him
    Google work safe for that incident, untrained operator machine running full speed 1800rpm polishing a 1/2 shaft hanging out 4/5 feet from the back of the headstock

    I am not the safety police and wish you well with your new machine but I worry when I see these supposedly simple mistakes made by new users

    Do you have some one local that could run through some basic lathe training look over your shoulder etc

    Bruce

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Thanks for the detailed reply.
    I understand the risks and safety implications, I really do. I've done basic machining many years ago, some of the basic stuff must have slipped my mind. At no time I felt that anything was unsafe. But you all know allot more than Me so I appreciate the replies.

    I have a machinist friend who has helped me so far to get used to everything. I'll run through some of this safety stuff with him before I have another go.



  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Bruce View Post
    oohsam

    Sorry for the short reply I was called away as others have said length is not an issue on a lathe that is set up for it for example is the rear of the spindle threaded to take a support bush ?? to stop whip in the shaft. as the speed increases the moments of inertia change for each and every bar tube or pipe / casting you swing on your lathe.

    I suppose you are only playing with your machine at the moment but these are when problems can occur are you turning axles for your kids billy carts ? that's the only time for example a 900 mm piece of material will get loaded into my machines what is more common is to make a part I would have cut the material to length + a chucking allowance and then worked on that

    In my experience and I have had plenty machining borehole column 20 feet long through the headstock of oil field lathe but I had a out board 3 point steady dyna bolted down.

    These a fun times with a new toy to play with, but please do not forget these toys can remove an eye / finger / Hand as quick as a flash they do not care who is around them.

    There was a case in Melbourne 2 years ago where a man was decapitated/ killed with a lathe when the material hanging out the back of the headstock whipped on him
    Google work safe for that incident, untrained operator machine running full speed 1800rpm polishing a 1/2 shaft hanging out 4/5 feet from the back of the headstock

    I am not the safety police and wish you well with your new machine but I worry when I see these supposedly simple mistakes made by new users

    Do you have some one local that could run through some basic lathe training look over your shoulder etc

    Bruce
    My lathe has a thread for a support bush. I don't know how much this will help as i have not used one before. Another thing on my list.

    1800 rpm? That's scary. I was doing about 200 rpm max except for a short section when I used a centre.

    Oohsam, while you are learning it would be a good idea to. check before you do anything you are unsure about before doing it. The members here would prefer to answer even silly questions rather than hear about an accident.

    Dean

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Bruce View Post
    spindle threaded to take a support bush ??
    Google "lathe spider"
    Here is the one I made
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...20#post1498920

    I was close enough to see/hear a first-aid cabinet ripped off the wall by some 1/2" bar. Once was enough thank you


    Stuart

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Google "lathe spider"
    Here is the one I made
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...20#post1498920

    I was close enough to see/hear a first-aid cabinet ripped off the wall by some 1/2" bar. Once was enough thank you


    Stuart

    ah so its like a steady for the spindle bore.
    nice.
    I'll look into it.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    ah so its like a steady for the spindle bore.
    Well more of a four jaw lol
    Something else that will grab hold of you given the chance.
    I don't think you really need the lock nuts. A larger diameter and few different lengths of grub screw might be a better idea.

    Stuart

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1,478

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Bruce View Post
    You are holding material to far out from the chuck mate in the first couple of pics its to easy for ally to catch and grab and crash 50 mm max for that dia bar looks about 16 mm or less

    Bruce
    You will be cutting a taper with the unsupported job that far out.

    Measure it and see.

    Rob
    The worst that can happen is you will fail.
    But at least you tried.



  15. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    335

    Default

    So I started by improving my lathe today.
    Again, this is nothing major, and for 99% of you this is very very boring stuff, But I'd just like to share anyway.
    As many have documented the QCTP from littlemachineshop does not fit the lathe out of the box. however, they did include an AXA converter, internal threaded bolt that screws on to the old toolpost bolt. It is quite short and doesn't reach the bottom of the compound slide. This worries me, as Its ideally just holding on by the thread.
    I made a bushing that is slightly higher than its lowest point (forgive my untehicnal jargon) so it uses resistance on it, before it bottoms out on the threads.

    It allowed me to use real things that I've learnt so far, and it was my first time parting.
    using the boring bar was also a new one for me, but It wasn't all that difficult. I got a little bit of chatter when using the boring bar. I did predrill first, and I wasnt hanging far out of the chuck. used oil too, i"ll have to research more on what I did.

    overall result was ok, not great, I made the noob mistake of not dividing my outside cut by 2 and took off a little more material on the outside than required, and it resulted in .10mm too small but still adequte and functional.

    I made the mistake of having m parting tool a little high on the first attempt to part, but soon fixed that and parted quite easily. All mistakes made have also been beneficial, as they have allowed me to practically understand how to avoid them in future. I'm going to need to put a calculator next to the lathe I think.

    Anyway, pics.
    Thanks for listening.

    IMG20140613013220.jpgIMG-20140613-WA0001.jpgIMG-20140613-WA0003.jpg

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay Qld
    Posts
    3,466

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oohsam View Post
    I kept looking around for an oil reservoir but it doesn't look like it has one, just those little ball bearing points.
    The little ball bearing points are a reservoir of sorts.
    The are oiled by using a pressure pump oil can each time before the lathe is used.
    Generally a couple of pumps in each is good. On some places like the slide ways and adjustment wheels, I pump until I see fresh oil flowing. I like to to wipe the oil points before each oiling to remove any dirt or chip fragments that could get pushed into the gallery..

    Enjoy your new lathe.

    Grahame

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 15th July 2013, 01:24 AM
  2. Any Atlas Lathe and Drummond Lathe Owners out there?
    By j.ashburn in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 8th April 2013, 06:22 PM
  3. Converting a Metalworking Lathe to Wood Turning Lathe
    By GrinlingGibbons in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 29th March 2011, 07:17 AM
  4. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 25th March 2009, 12:19 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •