Thread: New Lathe Part 2

Originally Posted by Michael G

I think the red will slide down very nicely thanks Dean.
Thanks to for promoting the idea that forum members are kind considerate people with the other half. It all helps!

The measurements you've posted are odd - something is not quite adding up however, we can sort this.
(On edit - in the list of measurements it should be 28t not 22t)

Michael

Yes, it should be 28 tooth. I noticed that and was going to correct it, but obviously I forgot. I will edit the post.

Dean

Originally Posted by Ueee

If it's 28T then its M1.5. Do you have the cutters Michael? I can loan them to you if not.

Thanks Ewan. If you have a No.3 (44t) cutter that does not mind going on holidays that saves me trying to find one.

Michael

Today I clamped the first workpiece in the chuck and spun the lathe. It was only a length of 16mm black steel I bought today and which needed cleaning up with a flap disk on the angle grinder tho. This is to make axles for the skates to move the lathe. I did cover the entire bed section with a cloth.

I then gave the bed and cross slide a good scrub with a green scourer and hydraulic oil to remove the built up gunk. The tailstock was also given some attention. I have pulled it apart for cleaning. I will put it back together tomorrow. What I have found is that everything I have cleaned is in very good condition. No visible wear anywhere. I could not detect movement in the tailstock ram. The cross slide seems to be solidly connected and has no movement.

One thing I discovered today is that the tailstock ram, the cross slide wheel and the compound wheel all have both metric and imperial measurements on them.

I need to refit the Taper Attachment, as although I have the rear bearing mount to replace the taper attachment bearing mount, I think it would be easier to fit the attachment. I have removed it for cleaning and rust protection. It is down in my implement shed where the lathe was stored. It is rather heavy and quite a job to move and fit. The steadies, face plate and 4 jaw chuck are also in the implement shed. Time to bring them to the workshop I think. Looking at6 them today I thought that I need to organise a lifting system. They are too heavy for me to keep lifting into place.

I bought the cement for the slab as well today.

Dean

I spent nearly all day on more cleaning and reassembling. The tailstock was put back together first.

I then started on the cross slide. I stripped it completely, scrubbed all the gunk off, oiled it then put it back to gether and back on the lathe. Several times! I have got good at it now, which is good because it has to come apart again.

I did find the first real problem. Not major, but something I would like to fix.

Nuttall Cross Slide Wheel.jpgCompound Hand Wheel.jpgCross Slide Drive Shaft.jpgCross Slide Drive Shaft End Detail.jpgNuttall Cross Slide Wheel Rear Detail.jpg

The cross slide wheel on the left, as I have mentioned before, has been pinched from the Nuttall Lathe that this lathe replaces, before I got it. They both came from my work. As can be seen, it does not match the other one at all. It also has a scale on it, but there are 2 scales, metric and imperial behind it from original.

The second picture is of the compound slide handle. This is the type of handle that should be on the cross slide.

Next is the Cross slide drive shaft. Sorry about the background. The front end of the cross slide screw fits into the left end of this shaft, which has a double key that connects the two. There is a long keyway in the screw shaft. Now I understand what was said about this arrangement long ago in the first thread.

The Nuttall wheel was fitted because they dropped the lathe on its face trying to install it, braking the existing handle. The brackets for a shaft which has adjustable cams to operate the apron stop system was also broken. This shaft was tossed out at the time and by a fantastic coincidence I happened to collect it as a suitable source of steel. I still have it complete. The shaft was also slightly bent as well.

The last picture shows what was done to the shaft to fit the Nuttall handwheel. The thread at the end was turned off. Maybe "turned" is a bit pretentious. Hacked may be a better term. The bend in the shaft was not taken in to account when turning this so this section is not very straight at all. The threads were not cleaned up at the end of the cut either. I had to use a vice and large shifter to remove the section that screws onto the thread. After a bit of cleaning up of the threads I could turn it by hand.

There is also a mark visible just past the threads which is caused by the grub screw which locks the screw on part. I have no idea what it is called. The scale wheel turns on this part and locks to it with a knurled ring. This mark was touched up with the file as well.

The cross slide wheel drives the shaft via an oval key. The last picture shows how the keyway was made to suit this key. That is a part circle of steel (SS) pressed into the wheel bore, leaving a keyway. I have always had doubts about the ability of the maintenance dept at work. Now? Nuff said. A bolt holds the wheel on the shaft.

I think I will turn the end of the shaft, held with a centre in the tailstock untill it is cleaned up then make a handle to suit this diameter. Other suggestions welcome.



When I originally cleaned up the lathe and oiled it with lanolin based oil because of rust, I removed the Taper Turning Attachment (TTA) and kept it separate. Without this the cross slide does not work properly. Today I had the choice of replacing the original rear bearing support or putting the TTA back on. As I wanted the TTA back on anyway, and the rear bearing support was covered in many years of thick gunk.....

There was a lot of work cleaning it up. There is a lot of surfaces and fiddly bits.

Taper Turning Attachment Installed.jpg

The order of assembly is important with this. By the time I had messed around getting bits in that should have been put in earlier , the key that connect the two cross slide shafts must have fallen out, so no drive. I originally found this key on the floor of the shed and wondered what the heck is this? It was however, soon obvious to me that this was the purpose. It is like two oval keys joined together, one longer than the other. Where this key fits is right inside the cross slide and cannot be seen until the shafts are removed. Working blind.

That covers most of today's work. The replacement ammeter has been fitted and is working. The tacho I ordered turned up today. The hand held tacho stopped working a couple of days ago. I have received a message from the seller to say they are sending me a new one. I now have 4 crimpers which cover all of my current needs, not including the ones I already had. Old crappy ones and network connectors. I also have a box of different sized bootlace ferrules. Thanks to the person that asked about these.

There may be an issue with the VFD. At higher frequencies of around 80hz (guess) the VFD starts to ramp down. If I press the stop button it ramps down to a point and then starts up again. Maybe this is an amperage max setting that is being exceeded or such. I have not found anything of this nature yet. Any suggestions. This is not major, but it will limit me from using the higher speeds. The lathe is designed to do 2000rpm using the YY motor connection and 1000rpm using the Delta motor connection. I wish to get the faster speeds using >50Hz frequencies.

Dean

A picture of the Cross Slide Handle extracted from the parts manual pdf file. This is a non scalable graphic, so this may be as good as it gets. The arrow indicates the position (I think) of the scale wheel which is 68mm diameter.

This is posted as a result of a PM.

3 Ball Handle Ex CY Manual.jpg

Dean

So the handle is not really all that big for the size of the lathe, maybe 100mm? I like the size of the one on the Antrac, i guess it would only be about that. Next job is to find one, arc euro have some but maybe too small.

Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

So the handle is not really all that big for the size of the lathe, maybe 100mm? I like the size of the one on the Antrac, i guess it would only be about that. Next job is to find one, arc euro have some but maybe too small.

Ew

My guesstimate came out to 88mm, but I think that is too small. I would have to try the lathe and see what my hands think should be a good size. I would also like to get some idea of a suitable size from other lathes etc.

The Nuttall wheel is 108mm diam and the compound handle is 92mm (I am glad we don't have neighbors close by ). I would have to make one as the bore is going to be a custom fit, unless I fit a sleeve like the maintenance guy at work did.

Dean

Today I finished cleaning the lathe bits, got it back together and running in full trim. I fitted a cutting tool and faced off a piece of shaft to check for true centre height. I fixed the cross slide shaft proble from yesterday. That was not very difficult. The tool post has a ratchet to set it square. Both the cross slide and compound have locking screws. The compound did not actually have a screw in it and I found a tiny piece of round brass with an angled end. I don't know how it has not fallen out before. It has a screw now. The compound has 3 bolts to tighten the angle adjustment. Only 2 were in place and there is only 2 sliding nuts. The third is under the front of the compound slide. I guess somebody decided it was too difficult to wind the compound back a bit to get at it.

I realised that I need a 3 ball handle to replace the butchered cross slide wheel. I cannot get to the scale locking ring without one.

Here is a picture specially for Michael.

Parting Tool Holder.jpg

I milled off the welds holding the small steel block to the parting holder and welded on a bigger block. I then milled this to clean it up top and bottom. It works a treat. Cut like it was butter. I probably should clean up that chuck.

Dean

Nice to see that tool post being put to good use.
As you say, cuts like butter. It is amazing how much easier parting is when things are rigid.

Michael

Hi Dean,
My cross slide handle is 100mm, i find this just right. The c10's is also 100 (4" actually), so it must be a good size.....
While I'm at it the leblonds is 6", but then it is a much bigger machine.

Ew

Originally Posted by Michael G

Nice to see that tool post being put to good use.
As you say, cuts like butter. It is amazing how much easier parting is when things are rigid.

Michael

You can say that again. Compared to the Nuttall it is a whole new ball game. Having done so much work on it recently I was aware of how good the condition of this lathe is and how well it is built. I am still finding it hard to believe how lucky I am to get hold of such a good machine for so cheap.

Can anybody point to any help on how to make a 3 ball handle for the cross slide? I am sure I can figure it out, but it would be easier to have instructions to help. I am obviously going to have to make a ball turning attachment.

I have not discovered anyway to change the feed speed. The threading speeds are all documented, but I have not been able to change the speed of the feed shaft except for high/low speed. I would assume there should be a large range of speeds available?

Dean

Originally Posted by Ueee

So the handle is not really all that big for the size of the lathe, maybe 100mm? I like the size of the one on the Antrac, i guess it would only be about that. Next job is to find one, arc euro have some but maybe too small.

Ew

The only ones I have found so far are to fit a Myford. I bit small I guess. They are also a bit on the expensive side. It looks a tho I am going to have to make one.

Would you mind measuring up the one on your Antrac. I was going to scale up the one pictured, from the compound slide but that gives a large ball of 50mm diameter. That is a bit to big.

Dean

No worries Dean, will do. There are some bigger ones on ebay, not sure how big they are though! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lagun-Mil...3D231239505635

As for your feeds, is there not something on the threading plaque that says "feeds = threads x .1" ? I presume you have a high low on the headstock, high low on the QCGB then an 8 or so position lever?

Ew

Hi Dean,

If its just sizes you are after.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...6&d=1293257304
Never given any thought about how to go about making one lol

Stuart