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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Dean,

    If its just sizes you are after.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...6&d=1293257304
    Never given any thought about how to go about making one lol

    Stuart
    Thanks Stuart. That is just what I want. The balls are bigger than I thought. I have not had much to do with this type before.

    Dean

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    No worries Dean, will do. There are some bigger ones on ebay, not sure how big they are though! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lagun-Mil...3D231239505635

    As for your feeds, is there not something on the threading plaque that says "feeds = threads x .1" ? I presume you have a high low on the headstock, high low on the QCGB then an 8 or so position lever?

    Ew
    Gearbox Controls.jpgFeed Chart 1.jpgFeed Chart 2.jpg

    This is the layout and chart.

    The second and third section in the chart must relate to the feed speeds. The difference is those sections do not have either "M" or "W" just below where it says "Change Lever".

    Controls Bottom.jpgControls Top.jpg

    Pictures say it better. I wonder if lever 5 (Feed - Thread) is in the left (M) position and lever 3 (Feed - Thread) is in the central position. I only have the manual on my computer, so I don't have it to reference when in the shed.

    Dean

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    My best guess is that the far right lever in the photo has 3 positions - middle is feed while the 2 either side are for threading (W=imperial, M=metric). As shown in the photo your feed is for metric threading. Once you have that middle position the top charts will tell you how to select particular feeds.

    I am making some ball handles at the moment for the J&S. I was going to have a play and work out how to do a 3 ball handle so I'll post some info later. As for size, this handle is not for transmitting power as such, so it doesn't have to be really big (you don't need size for leverage). You might be better off making some thing up from some wood or scrap steel and see what feels best. My cross slide crank is a 3 ball type but has turning diameter of around 80mm

    Michael

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    My best guess is that the far right lever in the photo has 3 positions - middle is feed while the 2 either side are for threading (W=imperial, M=metric). As shown in the photo your feed is for metric threading. Once you have that middle position the top charts will tell you how to select particular feeds.

    I am making some ball handles at the moment for the J&S. I was going to have a play and work out how to do a 3 ball handle so I'll post some info later. As for size, this handle is not for transmitting power as such, so it doesn't have to be really big (you don't need size for leverage). You might be better off making some thing up from some wood or scrap steel and see what feels best. My cross slide crank is a 3 ball type but has turning diameter of around 80mm

    Michael
    That works. It is just a matter of finding the right combination. The manual is not perfect in this regard.

    The centre handle gives 2 ratios and with the 9 position dial that is 18 speeds.

    But what about this lever?

    Apron Diag.jpg

    It is called a "Switch Handle". 3 positions with locking centre. It turns a keyed shaft which feeds back to the feed gearbox. It was my impression that it controlled the feed. Forward/Off/Reverse. I cannot make it do anything. It moves ok and the shaft turns. Another case of the correct combinations?

    Dean

    ps

    I should add that although the "Switch Handle" is shown in the diagram above, I cannot see any mention of it in the text. This diagram is in the "Apron" section, which is where I would expect it to be explained. You may note that there is not even a connecting line or lable here. The name came from an overall diagram which is very difficult to see in detail.
    Last edited by Oldneweng; 31st May 2014 at 11:04 AM. Reason: ps

  6. #35
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    Default New Lathe Part 2

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Dean,

    If its just sizes you are after.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...6&d=1293257304
    Never given any thought about how to go about making one lol

    Stuart
    Am I the only one struggling with this link? Lol
    That switch lever turns the lathe on and off plus reverse.
    Normally down for forward and up for reverse. Middle for off.

    Phil

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Am I the only one struggling with this link? Lol
    That switch lever turns the lathe on and off plus reverse.
    Normally down for forward and up for reverse. Middle for off.

    Phil
    Thanks Phil. I have just been out looking at it and concluded that it was electrical. Click, Click. There is a switch next to it which is said to be a jogging switch. Time for some exercise I guess. No good to me then.

    I had no trouble with that link. I have copied the measurements into Excel, converted to metric and added a formula to calculate overall length for each size. I did this after calculating the length for 4 of the 6 with a calculator, finding all too big, and wanted a visual reminder so I could compare. The next one was the one that appears to be the closest to what I want at this point in time.

    As Michael said, it might be a good idea to test with a trial handle. At the moment the lathe is still sitting about 200mm off the floor on timbers. When I have finished the skates (today?) I will remove the timber. I think it is not worth checking for handle size until I am operating the lathe at the correct height.

    Dean

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Normally down for forward and up for reverse. Middle for off.

    Phil
    You what? Mine are both the other way-up for FWD down for REV. Now that would catch you out if you weren't prepaired!

    eW
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  9. #38
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    How about this Phil?
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...90#post1253290

    Hi Dean

    On the center and left lever have you just got them in the middle for the picture?

    You do have a=28?

    Does anyone know that OPEN and CLOSE mean?

    Stuart

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    Default Ball Handle

    Possibly cheap enough to not bother making your own - http://www.ebay.com/itm/171302790294...294%26_rdc%3D1

    BT

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post

    Does anyone know that OPEN and CLOSE mean?

    Stuart
    I could make a bad joke.....

    It looks just like the Antrac, moving the lever to open drops the drive gear away from the cluster of 8 and moving it back to closed lifts the gear back into engagement. It is a very fast and easy way to change the speeds. I think there is a picture of the mechanism in the Antrac lathe thread.

    Dean, it looks to me like the top 2 charts show the feed rates.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    How about this Phil?
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...90#post1253290

    Hi Dean

    On the center and left lever have you just got them in the middle for the picture?

    You do have a=28?

    Does anyone know that OPEN and CLOSE mean?

    Stuart
    Yes they are in the centre or neutral position in the picture. Despite what it says on the lathe these levers can be changed while the lathe is running. The manual states this and they change without any clashing at all. Ver smooth.

    Yes A=28. That is the only gear I have at the moment for that position. I mentioned that I was missing the 44 tooth gear before. I misquoted the 28 as 22 at the time.

    Sorry about not mentioning the OPEN and CLOSE. You ste the handle to open in order to rotate the speed dial and then back to close. t is like a clutch.

    Dean

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Possibly cheap enough to not bother making your own - http://www.ebay.com/itm/171302790294...294%26_rdc%3D1

    BT
    Thanks Bob. I wish people would call things by a common generic name. That is very tempting. I have to think about it, and ponder my finances. I have to be cautious at the moment.

    If my shaft had not been butchered, the first one in that list would screw straight on. I would have to either repair the thread or bore and bush the handle, cutting a keyway. The thread would not be easy as only part of the thread has been turned down. Iwould have to line up the remaining thread.

    Dean

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I could make a bad joke.....

    It looks just like the Antrac, moving the lever to open drops the drive gear away from the cluster of 8 and moving it back to closed lifts the gear back into engagement. It is a very fast and easy way to change the speeds. I think there is a picture of the mechanism in the Antrac lathe thread.

    Dean, it looks to me like the top 2 charts show the feed rates.

    Ew
    I should have done this originally.

    Feed Chart Arrows.jpg

    The two charts in the middle are show feed rates.

    Dean
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #44
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    I meant the top 2 on the machine, left for long and right for cross. I see now that Michael suggested this ages ago.....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    I meant the top 2 on the machine, left for long and right for cross. I see now that Michael suggested this ages ago.....

    Ew
    Sorry. I did not notice that the manual had them in a different order.

    Where the arrow points in this picture is a ledge that has obviously been used quite a lot to put stuff on. I wish I knew what was on the plate visible there, that has been completely defaced.

    100_0004 resized.jpg

    I have changed my mind about one thing. I am going to put the lathe on the floor as soon as I can. It might be better if I was about 6ft 4in tall.

    I have made a good start on the skates. I will post a picture when I have one finished. (As long as it works, otherwise what skates?)

    One slight issue. When the feed direction is set for x travelling towards the chuck the y direction is from the centre out. I have to stop the lathe to change direction. I should get used to facing Tubalcain style.

    Dean

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