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Thread: lathe coolant

  1. #31
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    Thanks Ewan

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  3. #32
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    Seems a pity to leave chips around to rust.

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    Are you familiar with the term "trolling" pipeclay?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Seems a pity to leave chips around to rust.
    Overnight?
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #35
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    Was there a problem with the concentration level with your coolant,as I have never seen swarf start to show signs of corrosion after such a short period,or is it more the environment they are in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Are you familiar with the term "trolling" pipeclay?
    Something to do with fishing,or the fairy tale characters.

  8. #37
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    4l synthetic coolant, $55, Check
    Boiled and or filtered water, cost of filter/electricity, Already have Reverse Osmosis (and Deionized water if needed) unit for coffee machine
    Pipe, pond pump, fishtank airator, $100?, Grabbed one of SWMBO unused water feature pumps (I think it cost her $45) I did actually pay for a few PVC pipe fittings
    Bucket for sump, $10, used old X-ray oil cooling tank
    Wiring, switch, $20, not required

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Something to do with fishing,or the fairy tale characters.
    Silly me I have just been told that its only the fairy tale character and trawling is to do with fishing.

    As a side noted I would like to thank the member who was interested in my well being and personnel enjoyment.

  10. #39
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    Hi all,

    For me metalwork is my hobby. As with all hobbies, they are pursued because they give us much enjoyment. This forum forms an extension of my hobby and as such it provides me with many forms of enjoyment.

    If people can't contribute this this forum in a helpful and positive light then perhaps they should ask themselves some hard questions. I for one am getting a bit tired of some of the crap and cheap shots that pop up here. The old saying, "If you haven't got anything nice to say then don't say anything" is just as relevant in todays world as it was when it was first said.

    OK. Got that off my chest.

    I'm enjoying this thread!

    If I were to purchase one of those fully synthetic coolants, how long would the 5L last me before I had to throw it out (assuming I aerate it maybe once a week) I know it's asking how long is a piece of string but I'm trying to work out if it will be a large ongoing financial commitment.

    Cheers,

    Simon

  11. #40
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    Default lathe coolant

    Simon,
    I may have it completely wrong, but I think even the fully synthetics are mixed with water. The one Ewan uses is mixed 5% in water.

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    Hi Chris,

    Sorry I didn't make myself all that clear. What I meant was not how long will it last in terms of the volume but more the bacteria build up. If I was to commence using coolant (synthetic) would I find on average (say once a fortnight use but maybe aerate once a week) that I would need to purchase another 5L once a year or would it be more likely to be a 6 monthly investment?

    I'm just trying to get a handle on what the real cost would be for me.

    Cheers,

    Simon

  13. #42
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    Simon, the HOCUT 797BU sold by Hare and Forbes for $49.50 per 5L can is a "semi synthetic" emulsion oil:
    S090 | HOCUT 797BU Semi-Synthetic Metal Cutting Fluid | machineryhouse.com.au
    Recommended dilution rate is 1:10 to 1:20 for machining depending on what you use it for. You can download its MSDS from above link, but it does not give away too much information. It appears to still contain up to 10% petroleum oil. It also says that it is a skin irritant. I usually do not take MSDS health warnings too serious, but since I do suffer from dermatitis on the hands for the past 30 years I regard myself as sensitized, and try if possible to avoid using products that are classed as skin irritants. And since I do not like wearing gloves, there is still enough solvents and the like that I cannot avoid and have to put up with.

    That said, I have no idea how long you can store it once mixed and first used. Like all emulsions, it is made for industry where it would be used daily or almost daily, and regularly tested for concentration and discarded before it becomes too much of a nuisance or health problem. I would only consider its use in your home shop, if you really do some heavy roughing cutting and need the extra cooling capacity of a water based flood coolant. I for example do mostly small scale stuff, my largest lathe is a Hercus 260 with a 3/4HP motor, not exactly the sort of power one would link with any "heavy roughing". Most of the roughing in Steel I do I do dry (note1), or use WD40 on Aluminium. For finishing cuts I use brush on or spray on lubricants or oil. For plastics I use plain compressed air but only when needed. The only place I really miss an emulsion coolant is the bandsaw - but I do not use it often enough to justify getting back into emulsion coolants. For the little I do brush-on lubricant works fine, the main disadvantage is I cannot walk away and do something else whilst sawing. And if ever I was to go back using emulsion, I would probably go for simple and cheap vegetable/mineral oil emulsion, and simply discard what I have mixed after no longer than 1 week. Chris

    PS: the note1): I do most cutting using indexable carbide inserts. Such inserts do NOT like anything like brush-on or spray-on coolants for anything except finishing cuts. If one uses such inserts properly for roughing, one is getting smoking hot dark blue chips. Any interrupted application of coolant would thermally shock the cutting edge, resulting in many small microcracks that quickly enlarge and cause decay of the cutting edge making the insert useless long before its intended life span would be up. If you mainly use HSS tools, this problem would of course not exist for you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi all,

    For me metalwork is my hobby. As with all hobbies, they are pursued because they give us much enjoyment. This forum forms an extension of my hobby and as such it provides me with many forms of enjoyment.

    If people can't contribute this this forum in a helpful and positive light then perhaps they should ask themselves some hard questions. I for one am getting a bit tired of some of the crap and cheap shots that pop up here. The old saying, "If you haven't got anything nice to say then don't say anything" is just as relevant in todays world as it was when it was first said.

    OK. Got that off my chest.

    I'm enjoying this thread!

    If I were to purchase one of those fully synthetic coolants, how long would the 5L last me before I had to throw it out (assuming I aerate it maybe once a week) I know it's asking how long is a piece of string but I'm trying to work out if it will be a large ongoing financial commitment.

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Good point I agree, there's a lot of useless stuff written about at times.

  15. #44
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    Default oils is oils

    Engineering shops have been using water soluble oils for eons, I've never heard of any problems before. Surely all the old fitters and turners out there would be crook if there was a problem with it?

  16. #45
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    Right now i am speechless.......Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!

    As for the coolant, the stuff i have has been in the mill 6 months now, no smell, hasn't gummed up the pump after not being used for a few weeks and that was only 1L of the tub, i have 4 left.
    I would guess a year would be no worries.
    As for the use on a lathe, i do agree with what Chris said and flood coolant may not be necessary for most of our smaller machines. However on the mill the coolant not only keeps the cutter cool but washes the swarf away too, meaning it is not being pulled back into the cut and chopped up again and again.
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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