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20th October 2011, 10:20 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Just by looking it appears that the lathe may of originally been an A model,it could also of been a B or C.
As it is at the moment you would call it a C with Quickchange box.
When you look at the carrige bellow the 3 holes on the radious are the round parts plugs or are they cast.
If they are plugs it would appear that at some stage the longitudinal feed and cross feed may of been damaged,if they are casting marks it would seem that a replacement carriage has been substituted for a possably damaged carriage,and the carriage has not been finish machined.
The half nut lever has also been replaced at some stage,that is not original.
Not having the clutch for the longitudinal feed is not a problem,nor is it really a great problem for the cross feed.
Your longitudinal feed can still be used by use of the Half nut as it is on the C model,the only thing that you would have to change to get the feeds to be very close to an A model with clutch is the Stud gear.
On a standard A model the Stud gear will be a 20 tooth gear,in this case you would substitute the 20 stud for a 16 stud gear for feeding.
The 20 stud would need to be replaced when Screw Cutting.
The reason why you need to interchange the gears is because there is a reduction in the clutch feed worm and wheel ( this reduction is very similar to useing a 16 tooth gear)
The other gears in the train would be an 80 tooth idler and a 40 and 56 tooth gear on the screw.
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20th October 2011 10:20 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th October 2011, 11:08 PM #17Senior Member
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cheers, those results were excellent
Probably buy a phew bottles of white vinegar and put it in a bucket along with the rusty stuff
Just by looking it appears that the lathe may of originally been an A model,it could also of been a B or C.
As it is at the moment you would call it a C with Quickchange box.
When you look at the carrige bellow the 3 holes on the radious are the round parts plugs or are they cast.
If they are plugs it would appear that at some stage the longitudinal feed and cross feed may of been damaged,if they are casting marks it would seem that a replacement carriage has been substituted for a possably damaged carriage,and the carriage has not been finish machined.
The half nut lever has also been replaced at some stage,that is not original.
Not having the clutch for the longitudinal feed is not a problem,nor is it really a great problem for the cross feed.
Your longitudinal feed can still be used by use of the Half nut as it is on the C model,the only thing that you would have to change to get the feeds to be very close to an A model with clutch is the Stud gear.
On a standard A model the Stud gear will be a 20 tooth gear,in this case you would substitute the 20 stud for a 16 stud gear for feeding.
The 20 stud would need to be replaced when Screw Cutting.
The reason why you need to interchange the gears is because there is a reduction in the clutch feed worm and wheel ( this reduction is very similar to useing a 16 tooth gear)
The other gears in the train would be an 80 tooth idler and a 40 and 56 tooth gear on the screw.
Is there any way to see what model it is with the serial number?
Im wondering if i should get some stuff from here since herucs are clones of south bend.
9" LATHE
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20th October 2011, 11:20 PM #18
help
Cooper, That is only surface rust...will clean up easy with a wire wheel on a bench grinder, but alwaysuse safety glasses . These SB forum sites will help you . The serial Nr. will reveal it's year of manufactureSouth Bend Lathes - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
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20th October 2011, 11:23 PM #19
YAHOO groups
This yahoo group is also very good southbendlathe : All about South Bend Lathes: All Models
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21st October 2011, 12:09 AM #20Senior Member
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ok well i joined the SB group, just waiting for a confirm
I would use a wire brush if i had one, might be able to get one this weekend.
Serial code is: 106580
And i think the catalogue is: 44 - ZB
not to good with finding out serial codes and stuff like that :/
thanks for the links morris
Cooper
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21st October 2011, 08:20 AM #21
Cooper, good for you on getting all of that. I'll send you a few things like I offered long ago. I still have your address.
If you have a battery charger you can also perform electrolytic rust removal with just a tablespoon of washing soda and a bucket of water and a piece of cheap steel for an electrode. It works very well too.
There is an extensive South Bend section on Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web too. Look in the sticky threads for Paula's SB9A refurbishment for some inspiration but remember that she defines the extreme end of the "attention to detail" scale.
here are their noteworthy links: Noteworthy Threads - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web
GregIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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21st October 2011, 09:56 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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In regards to getting parts for it,I would suggest at the moment if it runs ok and has feed through the half nuts to not worry about anything that may be missing from the Clutch/Feed part of carriage.
Going by the numbers you gave it seems it is an 1940 model B.
If this is the case it has been fitted with the quickchange box,carriage feed would of been standard for longitudinal and cross.
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21st October 2011, 07:30 PM #23Senior Member
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I would do the electrolysis but putting the bits on a wire brush would be alot easier.
The noteworthy links are pretty good to read through might have look at some more tonight.
The lathe refurbishment is amazing and is very aspiring.
In regards to getting parts for it,I would suggest at the moment if it runs ok and has feed through the half nuts to not worry about anything that may be missing from the Clutch/Feed part of carriage.
Going by the numbers you gave it seems it is an 1940 model B.
If this is the case it has been fitted with the quickchange box,carriage feed would of been standard for longitudinal and cross.
By the way how did you find out that it might be a model B?
Sorry if i put that question in a rude way hahah
When i get a job or some money ill probably just buy tools for it first and replace anything that needs to be replace but that wont be for awhile.
Cooper
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21st October 2011, 08:40 PM #24Dave J Guest
Hi Cooper,
I would send your address to Greg via pm and take it down from here, as you are getting some tools together and don't want anyone coming around to help themselves.
Dave
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21st October 2011, 08:43 PM #25Senior Member
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woops
Thanks for telling me
Cooper
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21st October 2011, 11:22 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Im only going by other designation numbers and figures I have seen else where.
Normally with these lathe the prefix B is for B model A for A and C for C models.
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21st October 2011, 11:35 PM #27Senior Member
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22nd October 2011, 08:48 PM #28Senior Member
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Heres an update with everything in my tiny shed, also a picture of my best mate to do a size comparison haha
So embarrassing having a tiny shed compared to other members, well its probably not even a shed its a garden shed hahaha
Cooper
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22nd October 2011, 09:28 PM #29Distracted Member
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We all started somewhere Cooper. Heck if it's your shed and your machinery, you're miles ahead of me at 15! I didn't even start to get a decent setup till my 40s.
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22nd October 2011, 10:03 PM #30I break stuff...
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What's the story with the little combo lathe/mill unit under the bench grinder bench? I thought the South Bend was your first lathe?
That power hacksaw is an interesting looking contraption, OH&S would have a fit over that one!
To think I whinge about not having enough space, I reckon my mill would barely fit in that shed by itself, and you've got a whole decent little shop going on in there.
Idle curiosity leads me to ask, anyone know what the original colour for that South Bend would have been? Appears to have been painted at least twice in its life....
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