Thread: Lathe Levelling

Originally Posted by welder

Thanks every one I am learning alot about lathe leveling '

me too.
i think.
one thing i have learned is if you drop your level enough times eventually you lathe will read level.

thanks every one.for taking the time to pest about this it funny and informative.
in lots of ways .

Originally Posted by rusty steel

Twist is not the only aspect to consider. the centre line of the spindle has to be parallel to the bed ways. Think of a railway line starting on level ground and then going up or down hill. If the headstock end of the lathe is bolted down first and provision is made to raise or lower the tailstock end via shims or jacking screws, both removing twist and maintaining parallelism can be achieved regardless of the floor being level or the tray (cabinets) being level. ( Assuming the Headstock has been aligned correctly when viewed from above ).
Russell

Russel
Agreed.
Anyway thats the way I see it.
regards
Bruce

Originally Posted by rusty steel

Twist is not the only aspect to consider. the centre line of the spindle has to be parallel to the bed ways. Think of a railway line starting on level ground and then going up or down hill. If the headstock end of the lathe is bolted down first and provision is made to raise or lower the tailstock end via shims or jacking screws, both removing twist and maintaining parallelism can be achieved regardless of the floor being level or the tray (cabinets) being level. ( Assuming the Headstock has been aligned correctly when viewed from above ).
Russell

Vertical alignment doesn't matter nearly as much as horizontal alignment. (though I will be checking it just for giggles)

Stuart

Probably stealing Phil's thunder, but this jigger

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/fe...1/#post1475479

is the approved mount for a level on a lathe bed - sits on the working surfaces of the ways.

Michael
(Only took me 2 days to find Bob's photo)

Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde

That is true, but then what happens when you're actually making a cut? Won't the corner still lift, and then you'll get tapering or hourglass shapes anyway?

It all starts to hurt my head, this 'under 1mm society' as someone called it the other day...

Thats true if you carriage is warped. If you where only leveling a lathe and the carriage was true but the bed was twisted, the corner of the carriage would lift, but once you untwisted the bed all corners would touch.

I have heard of people doing it that way, but I think your better off starting at the ground and working up, so in this case the bed.

Dave

Originally Posted by rusty steel

Twist is not the only aspect to consider. the centre line of the spindle has to be parallel to the bed ways. Think of a railway line starting on level ground and then going up or down hill. If the headstock end of the lathe is bolted down first and provision is made to raise or lower the tailstock end via shims or jacking screws, both removing twist and maintaining parallelism can be achieved regardless of the floor being level or the tray (cabinets) being level. ( Assuming the Headstock has been aligned correctly when viewed from above ).
Russell

Your right there, that is where adjusting the A,B,C,D in the picture I posted will sort that out.

Dave

Instead if parallels. would HHS do in a pinch.
any way ive got it all figured out. i used this pair of bricks to clear the vees.


Attachment 210402

Attachment 210403

Ah! that's more like the Aaron we know.

Originally Posted by azzrock

Instead if parallels. would HHS do in a pinch.
any way ive got it all figured out. i used this pair of bricks to clear the vees.


Attachment 210402

Attachment 210403

Love it.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by azzrock

Instead if parallels. would HHS do in a pinch.
any way ive got it all figured out. i used this pair of bricks to clear the vees.

Never do that again Aaron!!
I swear I nearly had another heart attack I laughed so hard.
Hell, I'm still laughing

Phil

ROTFLMAO,
HSS is fine, just use the same piece on the same side. I mark my level with a texta where it sits on the parallel and also mark the parallel where the level sits it. This way your not chasing yourself because your using the same spot each end.

I know this sounds picky, but it has been talked about on other forums of the Starrett levels being concave, so if thats the case having the level an inch forward or back on the parallel will give different readings. Also not many cheap parallels are dead true when your chasing these small numbers.

Dave

Also watch out for those beer bottles while leveling, the cold ones on one end will shrink the metal and the warm ones on the other will expand it, so it will put your level readings out on the bricks and make the test not worth while.

Dave

Azz, you rock!!!!!!

I think you just made every ones night......

I've missed this thread since it was 1 page long, it rocketed to a decent size quickly. Nothing like a good laugh after a long and often brain failing read!

Dave, i don't think the warm beer/cold beer really applies, you think Aaron would let his beer get warm?

Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde

It all starts to hurt my head, this 'under 1mm society' as someone called it the other day...

I know what you mean