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Thread: Lathe lubrication
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2nd October 2012, 12:49 PM #16Cba
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> Should I use oil or grease on the compound, cross and longitudinal feed rods where they pass through brass nuts?
The leadscrews? If your lathe has oil holes, use oil. Otherwise it is probably intended to use grease. But you can always add oil holes if you prefer oil. Oil you need to add regularly, say once daily when using the lathe. Grease lasts for several months, but you need to take the parts apart to clean and re-grease. If the nuts are really only brass (some low cost chinese lathes use indeed brass) you should use oil only, it will seize if you use grease. But the better lathes use invariably Bronze for the nuts.
> Also what to use on the gear teeth in the main gearbox.
Use only oil on gears. The reason is that metal dust and chips stick to grease. Then as the gear turn the dirt gets forcefully rolled into between the gear tooth. If you had ever cleaned out such lathe gears that were greased, you would know how hard it can be to remove these rolled-in chips. Sometimes even a wire brush fails, and you have to pick them out with a scriber one by one. If you use oil on the other hand, all dirt gets flushed out with the oil and dribbles down.
> I have heard mention of lathe bed oil, and would like to get a brand name for it and know where to purchase it.
Way oil is more suitable for large industrial lathes. On a light benchtop type lathe with somewhat worn slides it can reduce chatter. You can use chain saw oil instead of way oil.
For benchtop type lathes it is better to use a thinner oil, but apply it more frequently. That way you flush dust and dirt away, insead of embedding it. Remember that industrial lathes that use sticky way oil also have elaborate wipers to prevent dirt getting say between saddle and ways. Most low cost lathes have either a felt or simple piece of rubber as wiper. If yours has felt, use a 30 weight oil. Chris
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2nd October 2012 12:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd October 2012, 03:40 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Well said cba_melbourne
Your advise is spot on. At work I do a lot of restoration and most of the damage is because someone decided to remove oil nipples and replace them with grease nipples. That, and a lack of attention to proper and adequate lubrication are the biggest killers. Not old age.
Phil
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2nd October 2012, 05:51 PM #18Senior Member
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I've got one more question for all you knowledgeable chaps out there.
I have two little ball-oilers on my lathe which are stuffed. I can't work out how they are retained in the carriage, nor do I know if they can be replaced. The ball has gone from one and both ball and spring gone from another so they are just swarf traps.
Anybody out there who can give me any advice on these things. I have thought of just making up some drop in plugs with a flange on top to just sit in the hole and just lift them out to add oil. But first I have to get the old ones out.
Pic attached of one of the good ones.
IMG_0470.jpg
Cheers
Ned
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2nd October 2012, 06:31 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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2nd October 2012, 06:36 PM #20
Hi Ned,
I used an easy-out to get them out. If you want to i purchased a range of them a few months back from the UK. I only paid 15p each so its a lot cheaper than the price you will get them locally. If i have the right size i would be more than happy to send you a couple. The advantage over just a plug is you can force oil into them without it coming back out. My LeBlond has neat little spigots with a finial on top, but it has wells for the oil so it doesn't need the pressure to force the oil onto the ways.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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2nd October 2012, 07:33 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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I bought 20L of mobil vactra (2 i think). If anyone in the Newcastle area wants some i can sell you some at cost price. Just send me a private message.
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2nd October 2012, 08:24 PM #22Senior Member
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This crowd OILERS have high quality brass ball oilers (not cheap), I have removed damaged ones by running a self tapper into them and yanking them out with long nose pliers.
Regards,
Martin
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2nd October 2012, 09:56 PM #23Senior Member
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3rd October 2012, 05:22 AM #24New Member
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The sellers ebay handle is bluechipmachineshop. Below is a link to the completed auction.
2 PINTS MOBIL SPINDLE AND WAY OIL FOR LATHE, MILLING MACHINE, BAND SAW, GRINDER | eBay
Hope this helps,
Harry
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3rd October 2012, 05:50 PM #25Senior Member
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3rd October 2012, 06:32 PM #26Senior Member
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I checked out the oilers website and whilst I haven't contacted them yet, it seems theirs are all metric,sizes, so I think 6mm would be a very sloppy fit in my lathe which has .250" OD oilers. Your tip on using a self tapper to remove the old ones worked well.
Thanks for the info anyway.
Cheers, Ned
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3rd October 2012, 08:14 PM #27Awaiting Email Confirmation
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RDG have some cheap 1/4" button oilers, not sure about the quality.
Button Oilers
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3rd October 2012, 08:16 PM #28Philomath in training
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Ned, how many 1/4" oilers do you need?
Michael
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3rd October 2012, 08:31 PM #29
Hi Ned, i only have metric, 6,8 and 10mm. You can always drill the holes out though if you have no luck on the 1/4" ones
1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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3rd October 2012, 08:38 PM #30Senior Member
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