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  1. #1
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    Default Lathe painting question

    I hope to finish off the cosmetics on my endless lathe restoration saga next month, but have a question of you more experienced hands:

    Is there any merit in painting the area between the ways a light colour? The rest of the machine is a darkish gray and I am wondering if the work zone might benefit from more reflected light from white or very light gray in that area?

    What say you?

    Lathe is a 10 x 20, but the bed is seven inches deep and nine inches wide.

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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  3. #2
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    Don't know about between the ways but I have the (removable) chip tray painted white in an aid to see the little bits that fall on that more easily.

    Michael

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Don't know about between the ways but I have the (removable) chip tray painted white in an aid to see the little bits that fall on that more easily.

    Michael

    Hi Greg and Michael,
    I would go with the light colour between the ways, on the chip tray and also the splash back if so equipped, to generally increase the level of illumination, and also to raise the contrast when using thread gauges and the like, and as Michael has said, it helps when you are looking for small parts which have dropped down there. For a long term project I haven't even touched for some time, - a LeBlond Regal, I have obtained two colours in 2 pack epoxy, a dark green and a cream, and the cream will be the undercoat, and also the colour for the webbing between the ways, and the chip tray. I have been advised by a paint technologist, that by adding cement powder to epoxy paint, I will have an excellent filler and also provide excellent rust protection, because the alkaline nature of the cement prevents the steel rusting, and the epoxy is quite happy with the alkaline environment too.
    Rob.
    Last edited by Ropetangler; 28th November 2012 at 09:46 PM. Reason: spelling

  5. #4
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    Hardly worth the effort in my opinion Greg. I had a feeling that my Colchester was painted red between the ways but I went out and checked and it isn't, it must be the one at work that I was thinking of, I will have a look tomorrow.

    Lex.

  6. #5
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    Default Red ways

    I know that Hercus painted their 9" workshop lathes' webs red, but I reckon it was because of the school sales...same as the Royal Navy gun decks...hides the blood

    I have some stainless sheets* for the splashback which I want to try unpainted. I am having a chip tray insert made that will be painted some colour- same as the webs. I like Ropetangler's post about cement dust. My machine's castings have been stripped of filler and I do not feel like spending the time and money on filling and sanding for a showroom finish. A little extra body to the paint would be enough to fill in the granular surface.

    *stupidly cheap on eBay. Bought some time ago, but now I worry that it might be too reflective. Oddly my lathe was never equipped with a factory splash back despite having every other do-dad a small lathe can fit.

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  7. #6
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    Default Reds the Go

    Greg
    When I picked up on your question of colour, the immediate thought was red.
    Thats because of traditional thinking & the fact that my Hercus is red on the internal webbing of the ways.
    It just looks good.
    Agree with Michael & Ropetangler, on the light colour also. Often I will put a piece of paper under the tool when setting up screwcutting tools & reading thread gauges etc.
    So Im not much help.
    The idea of cement powder & epoxy paint sounds a great idea as a filler. I have a cast iron surface plate, now all nicely scraped, however the undersides, still in the as cast condition, could do with this treatment.
    Sounds like a good solution.
    regards
    Bruce

  8. #7
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    My lathe was never offered with a splash back, but I scored two sheets of stainless for cheap on eBay some time ago. I will install one to assess the glare factor with bright lights. All I want is a well-lit, modern environment to work in without having to resort to torches to actually see the work in progress.

    I just realised that I have 3kW of lighting in a two car garage. And I just had my eyes checked too. I need to see of Warmer Bros has any of those show-biz Klieg lights for sale.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    And I just had my eyes checked too.
    Are you sure? you might want to have a look at post 5

    Stuart

  10. #9
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    Maybe the fin-de-semaine ethos is kicking in early,but I cannot find a mistake in post #5. Where specifically have my eyes/cortices led me astray?

    Dumfounded in Donvale.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    I thought that I had posted earlier, but now see no signs of that effort. The gist of my sparkling hunour was that red beds seem to be a school lathe affection-much like the gun decks in the Royal Navy of yesteryear: hides the bloodshed.

    Its past my bedtime so maybe I am losing it, but its isnt the effort you are talking about in post 7 in fact post 5?

    Stuart

  12. #11
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    Is the epoxy+cement mixed into a paste and applied as 'bog' or a thick liquid and applied with a brush?

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    All I want is a well-lit, modern environment to work in without having to resort to torches to actually see the work in progress.
    Greg,
    I mounted one of these to the wall behind my lathe. I guess you could mount it to your splashback. It's great.

    TIVED LED wall/clamp spotlight - IKEA

    Chris

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Is the epoxy+cement mixed into a paste and applied as 'bog' or a thick liquid and applied with a brush?
    My informant led me to believe that it was more of a brushable consistency, but you could try a thick paste if you had a really coarse surface you needed to fill. you would need to remember that the result will be harder than goats knees, so you won't want too much to sand off. You may be able to smooth it off with a rubber block dipped in soapy water to stop the epoxy bonding to the rubber (or even use a rubber glove, and just dip your gloved hand in the soapy water). He also told me that thick layers of epoxy will cause shrinkage problems/cracking, if used without filler material. There is possibly room for experimentation here, if the job justifies it, or else play it safe and do multiple thinner coats. I do have his business card, if you wish to speak with the man who informed me, he is the Technical Manager of Tas Paints in Hobart.
    Rob.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    I do have his business card, if you wish to speak with the man who informed me, he is the Technical Manager of Tas Paints in Hobart.
    Rob.
    That's OK thanks Rob. I was just curious. I would be inclined to use a proprietary product that's easy to sand back if you stuff it up. I hate sanding.

  16. #15
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    GQ,

    I had a wade through my copious photo collection last night hoping to find web enlightenment.

    The Deutsches Museum's Maus Grau Weilers and magnificent VDF Unicop copying lathe have their webs painted a pale yellow. I think an in house paint job given the same colour on two different manufacturers products. I have no recollection of thinking at the time what a fantastic touch it was. Overwhelmed by other stuff I guess.

    I slide a scrap of white paper under the workpiece if close scrutiny is required. Don't knock the use of a torch. They go places a lamp can't.

    BT

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