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Thread: LED Worklight
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26th November 2013, 08:39 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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I bought a 30w led flood light and hung it above the lathe...cool white...
am thinking that it is too cold (like glare) and should be 50w anyway
I am going to get a warm white 50w and give that a go
the 30w is only 900mm above the centre of bed lengthwise but towards apron side.
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26th November 2013 08:39 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st December 2013, 11:47 AM #17
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1st December 2013, 11:55 AM #18
McJings.
Hi All,
Bit of a mistake in what I wrote..
McJings do advertise here, but it is on the Right Hand Side of this Forum Page.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.
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3rd December 2013, 09:09 PM #19
Being quite impressed with the Lee Valley light linked by Chris Parks and not being willing to go the distance online to find out the freight cost in case I went too far, I emailed them. This was the answer.
Shipping Method Cost Shipping Time
International Surface delivery $31.25 USD 8 to 12 weeks
XpressPost International $48.86 USD 5 to 10 business days
UPS Express $45.26 USD 5 to 6 business days
Small Parcel Surface delivery $20.91 USD 8 to 12 weeks
Small Parcel Air delivery $38.99 USD 2 to 4 weeks
Your options to have two of the Magnetic Mount Worklights (15J7701) shipped to Australia would be as follows:
Shipping Method Cost Shipping Time
International Surface delivery $34.32 USD 8 to 12 weeks
XpressPost International $54.99 USD 5 to 10 business days
UPS Express $50.09 USD 5 to 6 business days
Small Parcel Surface delivery $24.84 USD 8 to 12 weeks
Small Parcel Air delivery $45.19 USD 2 to 4 weeks
Might be worth getting 2 and being patient but the express/air mail costs are too much for a light that costs $34.50. All prices in Us Dollars of course.
$US 93.84 for 2 lights.
Dean
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4th December 2013, 08:26 PM #20Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2010
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- Sydney Australia
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14th March 2015, 08:27 PM #21
light
Hi
This is my wandering work light , fitted onto a magnetic base . It is from a industrial sewing machine. I fitted a 12V LED globe with a plastic cover , the edison E27 base . I run it from an old car battery and it has not needed charging so far .The light is adequate for my needs Mike
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15th March 2015, 12:10 PM #22
I really like the idea and feel that a cheaper alternative might be utilising a small cree type flashlight-currently available through Total Tools at $14.95 or at Jaycar electrical for a little bit more.These torches give out a tremendous amount of light and would be excellent for a lathe application.
I am attempting to to hunt up some of that metal flexible tube and use a spring tool clip to hold the torch.A string magnet base is easy enough to come by.
Short amounts can be had from old bed stand reading lights, but the lathe application needs more length than they provide. I located some spiral tube at an electrical wholesalers but it would not hold the required weight.
Does any one know where suitable lengths of this tube might be purchased?HRD cree torch.jpg
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15th March 2015, 12:19 PM #23Senior Member
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- Nov 2007
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- Rockhampton
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Jaycar have this
http://www.jaycar.com.au/p/AM4127
Might not be long enough.
John
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15th March 2015, 01:14 PM #24
Thank you John,
With a turned tubular extension to one of the threaded ends to the magnet base it will probably do the trick.
Cheers
Grahame
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15th March 2015, 10:24 PM #25Member
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- Sep 2011
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- South Australia
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- 58
Another option...buy two of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/27cm-Flex...item3f291de272
screw them together, and using the supplied adapter screw them to $1 clamps, one side to the bench, the other the torch....these are designed to hold camera flashes, so holding a small torch would not be a problem.
Not the cheapest option though. Two together would give you 54 cm length.
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16th March 2015, 06:49 AM #26
Yes ! That is where I got mine from.
They were ten UK pounds when I got mine, but a few weeks ago they were selling them for £8.
01032015-01.jpg You can see it on the left hand side of the headstock in this picture. The on/off switch is just visible behind to the left.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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16th March 2015, 07:10 AM #27
I have one of those Ikea lights I use on my workbench. I have a slight problem with it, every now and then it goes dim. I started to think it was the power supply but realized it appears to be related to the switch, rock it off/on and things brighten up. Not sure if it is just dirty contacts or some other poor quality issue.
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20th March 2015, 07:46 AM #28
The first one I bought did that ! Took it back and they swapped it. I think that the switch is quite poor, there is no real protection from coolant or swarf. It only switches the 12 volts to the lamp so it wouldn't be difficult to remove or replace it.
FWIW There is a nice lump of cast iron in the base that can be put to very good use.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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2nd April 2015, 08:58 PM #29
I ordered one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320998967...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I was sent a 240v one that had a front bezel that would not screw on. I ordered a 12v one. A 12v replacement turned up this week. Now I need to work out a mounting system.
Has anyone bought one of the flexible goosenecks from Jaycar, who could give a better description than the one on their site. How much weight will they support say.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/p/AM4127
Dean
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3rd April 2015, 08:41 PM #30
SWMBO suggested an LED light that I bought to try before I started this thread. It is a clamp on, powered with 3 AAA batteries. I decided it was not bright enough and so useless for a machine light. I gave it to her to use on her sewing table, but she says it has never been used and I can have it back.
It has a flexible gooseneck about 60cm long that appears to be more than stiff enough to support my LED flood light. I pulled it apart today. The hole thru it is not very big, but I don't need very heavy wire for a 10w light so it should be ok. It has an M8 male thread at each end so connecting it all together should be dead easy. The mill has a 12v transformer for switching. I was going to just hook into this. Not sure whether to fit a switch yet. If I don't the light will remind me to turn off the power.
Would it be ok to use the gooseneck itself as the negative conductor? would this cause any problems? This would make it much easier as I only need to use one wire inside.
Dean