Thread: Good lights for use over lathe and mill

I used a 240V halogen ( the small downlight type ) on the lathe, but they never lasted more than a month or so, I think the vibration plays havoc with the filaments, so I changed to a 240V LED downlight, so far, so good it's brighter and being all solid state the vibration doesn't seem to bother it.

On the other end of the scale, the work light for the Deckel is going to be a 240V 100W led module.. The light is warm white, which is nice and pleasant to work with.

100WLedFlood.JPG


Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by RayG

I used a 240V halogen ( the small downlight type ) on the lathe, but they never lasted more than a month or so, I think the vibration plays havoc with the filaments, so I changed to a 240V LED downlight, so far, so good it's brighter and being all solid state the vibration doesn't seem to bother it.

On the other end of the scale, the work light for the Deckel is going to be a 240V 100W led module.. The light is warm white, which is nice and pleasant to work with.

100WLedFlood.JPG


Regards
Ray

what is lumen output Ray

Originally Posted by eskimo

what is lumen output Ray

8000-9000 lumens, roughly equivalent to 3 x 36" fluro tubes... ( although the ebay ad now says 9000-10000 ) when I bought it it was 8000-9000 Lumens

100W Outdoor LED IP65 Floodlight White High Power Spot Flood Light AU Stock | eBay

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by eskimo

WHAT!!!...i'm in the aircon business and I dont even have one in my shed....some of us are softies....hahahaha

Yeah I admit I'm soft especially when its stinking hot outside but I reckon it has been well worth it.
I got the AC from my a family member who was demolishing their old place and it was going to go into the skip.
It was a bit rusty but a bit of phosphoric acid and a lick of paint seems to have stemmed the worst of it - even if I only get a couple of years out of it it will be worth it

I have put my fluros on pull cords so that i can turn them off/on when I need it in that area of the shed I am in, rather than having all of them on 1 switch at the door.

Solutions like that can make a difference. I have 3 separate switches so I can light up 3 different areas but after a couple of hours in the shed I find I usually have them all on.

Picked this little beauty up at Masters for $30.
I have 24V halogen lighting on my lathe at the moment which gets so hot I can't turn the light off as the switch becomes inoperable.
I needed something better.
This lamp has a clamp base and a 'bendy' arm, and is LED. It won't allow me to replace the globe if it goes, still, if it lasts longer than the halogen...
Nice and bright as well.

Phil
DSCN1445.jpg DSCN1441.jpg

I have a lathe and mill which have 32V DC lights which are a bit like a single candle! I have managed to get lights tangled in machines and sparyed with coolant and have seen some destryoed so I have never been brave enough to run a 240V light on a machine. All low voltage for me. I have one LED on a flexible stand, very handy.

One thing I have to do is check the light on my lathe. I want to use an led. I may have to put in a trannie to run it, but I may be able to use one of the outputs from the vsd.

Dean

Originally Posted by Burner

I have a lathe and mill which have 32V DC lights which are a bit like a single candle! I have managed to get lights tangled in machines and sparyed with coolant and have seen some destryoed so I have never been brave enough to run a 240V light on a machine. All low voltage for me. I have one LED on a flexible stand, very handy.

I can remember it used to be taboo to run 240 volt lighting on lathes etc. but is it still the same now we have all sorts of wizardry to save our electrical lives?
It is the same when doing a clean out inside a boiler, the lighting had to be transformed to a low voltage DC. Battery powered headlamps are the go doing that work.
I wonder if RCD's make it less dangerous now.

Phil

Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer

It is the same when doing a clean out inside a boiler, the lighting had to be transformed to a low voltage DC. Battery powered headlamps are the go doing that work.
I wonder if RCD's make it less dangerous now.

Phil

Hi Phil,

Thats an interesting point.

WRT hazards in the workplace, the hierarchy of control measures clearly states it's preferable to eliminate or substitute the hazard (change from 240V to 12V etc) than to rely on engineering systems (i.e. RCD etc) for protection. Call me overly cautious but I would prefer to not have the hazard in the first place than to rely on an RCD to safely trip to save my life. I'd be sticking with ELV lighting. RCD's are a bonus!

Simon

Originally Posted by simonl

Hi Phil,

Thats an interesting point.

WRT hazards in the workplace, the hierarchy of control measures clearly states it's preferable to eliminate or substitute the hazard (change from 240V to 12V etc) than to rely on engineering systems (i.e. RCD etc) for protection. Call me overly cautious but I would prefer to not have the hazard in the first place than to rely on an RCD to safely trip to save my life. I'd be sticking with ELV lighting. RCD's are a bonus!

Simon

Actually Simon,
That's a better point.

Phil