Thread: Line boring on the mill

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Ah! The Tree. You certainly have developed a taste for exotica.

With GQ not gracing our discussions much anymore someone has to do it...
I have found one and payment has been made. Complete and near new as far as I can tell. From memory less than the metric Kaiser. Another case of equipment being improperly identified.

(Perhaps we need to start a boring thread in a few weeks time)
Michael

How does the headstock fit to the bed?

Flat's or V's?

Getting the spindle aligned vertically and horizontally will be the first dilemma...

Doing it on the bed, would probably be the best method.... All you needs is supports at the outboard end...

You have seen my line boring video on youtube? whilst nowhere near the same, the principle is the same...

American Tool Works used to bore their lathe headstocks with a radial arm drill with the appropriate jigs and fixtures...

I think I will turn a test bar first and see what the vertical alignment is like before I go machining anything (plan plan plan, thanks RC) last thing I turned between centers on the antrac was only tapered 5um or so over 4" so I'm confident I can get a good test bar. I cannot bore it on the ways, I'll post some pics later as to why.

Ok Michael, got a link for your new tree?

Off to make a start on that test bar......

Oh, Richard can you point me at a sag formula that is correct, you made a comment that the one you posted was incorrect?

Ew

Originally Posted by Michael G

With GQ not gracing our discussions much anymore someone has to do it...
I have found one and payment has been made. Complete and near new as far as I can tell. From memory less than the metric Kaiser. Another case of equipment being improperly identified.

(Perhaps we need to start a boring thread in a few weeks time)
Michael

Maybe less than a few weeks. TNT tried to deliver the metric Kaiser at lunchtime today. I missed them. I was up in the shed f...ing around with Taster arbor number 3.

Originally Posted by Ueee

Oh, Richard can you point me at a sag formula that is correct, you made a comment that the one you posted was incorrect?

Ew

The formula was correct I think.... My maths was not... Now if only you had a bridgeport with a right angle head.... You could probably do it easily with that...

Originally Posted by Ueee

Ok Michael, got a link for your new tree?

No link - the sale was inspired by a single line entry in a 40+ page text only catalogue.
"Tree, like new, with ¾ straight shank, beautiful wood case, with accessories"
As a teaser, here is a general pic from the seller of what I've put money against.

001 (2) (Medium).jpg

It's currently in the 'States so I won't be seeing it for a couple of weeks yet. I just hope the funds transfer I did works...

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Maybe less than a few weeks. TNT tried to deliver the metric Kaiser at lunchtime today. I missed them.

What a bugger. I was thinking if you wrote up a bit on the Kaiser, I did the Tree, Ewan did his Wohlhaupter and so on. We do need to find someone with a D'andrea, a Gamet, a Narex, a Mizoguchi, and any other B&F heads that may be of interest (doesn't want much does he?). That way we would have a good reference thread.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I was up in the shed f...ing around with Taster arbor number 3.

My friend Bob - the Arborist.
I hope that you sort it out soon. I'll need a good Arborist for the Tree . We've only heard about one of the arbors so what was the problem with the other(s?)?

Michael

Originally Posted by .RC.

Now if only you had a bridgeport with a right angle head.... You could probably do it easily with that...

I don't follow how that would work...a clue please?

Some pics of the bed, showing the lateral adjustment screws and how the head mount is higher than the flats on the bed. Also a pic of the bearing shape, a nut pulls the taper into the head casting for adjustment. Plus a rather boring pic of the UberShear 500 cutting the test bar....400rpm at .05mm/rev takes a long time to get anywhere...but leaves an awesome finish. It looks to be around .004mm out over its length at the moment. Shall i try moving the TS by .002......or i wonder if i can cut that much unsupported with the shear tool...i doubt it.

Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

I don't follow how that would work...a clue please?

Some pics of the bed, showing the lateral adjustment screws and how the head mount is higher than the flats on the bed. Also a pic of the bearing shape, a nut pulls the taper into the head casting for adjustment. Plus a rather boring pic of the UberShear 500 cutting the test bar....400rpm at .05mm/rev takes a long time to get anywhere...but leaves an awesome finish. It looks to be around .004mm out over its length at the moment. Shall i try moving the TS by .002......or i wonder if i can cut that much unsupported with the shear tool...i doubt it.

Ew

On the bilgeport style mill, you can swivel the whole ram around and with a right angle head attached, you can position it so the spindle is close to the end of the table with the spindle pointing parallel with the X ways (the long ways)

So you align and bolt the headstock to the table, have some form of outboard support, and go from there...

Originally Posted by Ueee

I don't follow how that would work...a clue please?

Don't worry about it - it wouldn't work.

Actually it might but considerably *worse* than swiveling your VH spindle parallel to the table because a right angle head mounted on a B/port (or similar) quill then shoving an unsupported boring bar into it just has to be getting close to the perfect definition of 'flexible'......

Must think about mounting up the all angle vertical head (designed for some other machine) on my Vicky mill one of these days. Too many projects, not enough time.

PDW

I could do that will the Vernier, minus rotating the ram around. Why stuff around making up a support for the other end of the bar when i have the overarm support i can use already?

I have the test bar down to .003mm, but my coolant pump overheated and cut out this arvo leaving a section that is poorly finished.

What sort of repeatability would you expect when you remove something from between centers and replace it? I don't seem to be able to get any better than about a thou. The head stock center has been turned in situ and the TS is a skoda live center with no measurable runout with a .002mm DTI. I have checked both the centers and holes for any crud before replacing.

Please Santa, may i have a cylindrical grinder as a late Xmas present?

Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

I could do that will the Vernier, minus rotating the ram around. Why stuff around making up a support for the other end of the bar when i have the overarm support i can use already?

I quite agree; if you have sufficient Y travel, far more rigid way to go. Even a turret mill with a 40 taper head like Richard's is a flexible noodle compared to using the horizontal mill.

Originally Posted by Ueee

I have the test bar down to .003mm, but my coolant pump overheated and cut out this arvo leaving a section that is poorly finished.

What sort of repeatability would you expect when you remove something from between centers and replace it? I don't seem to be able to get any better than about a thou. The head stock center has been turned in situ and the TS is a skoda live center with no measurable runout with a .002mm DTI. I have checked both the centers and holes for any crud before replacing.

Please Santa, may i have a cylindrical grinder as a late Xmas present?

Ew

Having done this recently, the answer for me is 0.0002" over 6" on the Chipmaster. Had to tweak the TS (of course) in the first instance but I could remove/replace without dramas. I also skimmed the HS centre in situ first. Was making an arbor to machine a bearing carrier for my propellor shaft thrust assembly. An exemplar of 'over-engineered' if ever there was one...

Next time the answer on runout might be different.

I too want a cylindrical grinder but not enough to screw about with the excuse for one I can turn my old Hercus T&C grinder into. I'd rather trust my lathe.

PDW

Originally Posted by Ueee

I could use the Wholhaupter but i only have a pissy 6" RT so that won't work.

Another thought - Use the Wohlhaupter to do the boring (turn the head so that the axis is horizontal).
Rather than use an RT to turn things around 180 degrees, what if you just made a mounting plate for the casting that located on a table feature - like the key that some of us have on vices that locates in a T slot? Perhaps a couple of shallow cones, a tight fitting key or a pair of diamond pins?

To set things up, if you put a dummy shaft through the bearing bores and used a DTI to align the shaft to the machine axis (perhaps with the casting inverted so that the mounting plate is uppermost) you could then machine the locating features on your mounting plate and know that they were in the same plane as the bores.

Michael

How long till you blast off.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

How long till you blast off.

Mars is the machine name, not the destination... although, having seen Ewan's workshop you never know..

Ray