Thread: Lipstick On a Pig

Originally Posted by toolman49

..the recent addition of a leadscrew extension and handle on the lathe makes boring to a precision depth a breeze

Martin,
you've pricked my curiosity. Can you elaborate on this mod? Perhaps a photo or two?
Chris

G'Day Jack,
Even though the lathe has a DRO fitted I find creeping up on the last thou when deep boring using the saddle handwheel a bit clunky. Last time I had the leadscrew out to do some other work I drilled and tapped it 12 mm and fitted a 14mm hex section extension (fig 1) at first I used the handle from my drill press vice (fig 2) until I got around to making a dedicated handwheel (fig 3).
Regards,
Martin

I couldn't remember what lathe you had so I chased it up, here it is for anyone else interested.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ye...-lathe-128170/

Personally I have never had that problem with boring. Do you find it awkward being up that end when boring?

Dave

Thanks Martin. Nice lathe BTW.

Dave,
I guess having the DRO as Martin does would make operating from the tailstock end easier? I don't have a DRO, so I guess I'll have to stick with the old apron handwheel and a depth stop.

True, but I have a DRO and I would find it awkward operating it from there, though I suppose it's what you get used to.

Dave

Hi,
I have the same problem when cutting accurate dimensions with the saddle feed. My machine's handweel moves the saddle something crazy like 37.2mm per turn so any fine adjustments are done with the compound with its much finer 1.25mm pitch. The drive is geared, but just not low enough. I have wondered about cutting a smaller gear and new rack, now i have the shaper i might consider it.

Ewan

So am I correct then in assuming you engage the half nuts towards the last few mm and use the leadscrew turned by hand to sneak up to the final dimensions?

Simon

Have you considered just using a dial indicator on the carriage,compound for your depths.

G'Day Simon,
Yep, bore normally with power feed to within the last couple of thou, move feed rod / lead screw selector to neutral, engage half nuts and bore to final depth with handwheel. I only use this method when a precision depth is needed, everyday "near enough / good enough" jobs don't get this sort of treatment.
It may sound complicated but in practice it takes less time to do than it does to write about it
Regards,
Martin

Whats works for one guy might not work for another, everyone has there own way at doing things.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Whats works for one guy might not work for another, everyone has there own way at doing things.

Dave

Exactly. Whatever floats your boat. If it gets the required results then it's all good.

Simon

Hi Toolman,

Can you explain to a layperson why you have grease nipples on your leadscrew and forward/reverse lever bearing?

I'm stuck with a crappy spring loaded ball oil point. I keep meaning to change it to an oil cup but a grease nipple is good too!

Also, are those cast alloy hand wheels worth buying? I'm like Dave, I hate my bakelite plastic handles and would love to replace them but not if the replacements would cause me equal amount of frustration!

Cheers,

Simon

Hi Simon,
The nipples were factory fitted, but I use heavy oil in what is generally called a "pom pom" oiler (Google it). On the second page of this thread there are photos of the handwheels I purchased, they are chrome plated cast iron not alloy, and as I said at the time, the quality is a bit of a lucky dip. one of them needs a touch up with a die grinder, but overall they are quite good for the price. I did price them locally and was quoted $ 38 to $44 each, hence the purchase from HK.
Regards,
Martin

G'Day Fellas,
The pig is finished for now (or until I can afford to fit a DRO). The revolving handles for the handwheels were a bit slow arriving from HK. The plastic quill locking blocks never impressed me much, so I knocked up a new pair in bronze and a new locking bolt and lever.
Regards,
Martin