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  1. #31
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    Default happy to help

    was it my bad spelling that did it.
    funny provoked isn't all ways a negative word

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    That's almost disgustingly simple Bob.

    Phil
    I had a look at the adapter last night and what's required is a tanged screw-in insert. The flats on the tang will serve for tightening and the safety pin can screw into the tang's exposed side.

    Yes Phil, disgustingly simple.

    Bob.

  4. #33
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Its is very simple, good thinking!

    Do you have a supplier for the tanged insert or will you just make one? I'm sure i saw them on a website somewhere.....but can't remember where
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Its is very simple, good thinking!

    Do you have a supplier for the tanged insert or will you just make one? I'm sure i saw them on a website somewhere.....but can't remember where
    I'll knock something up out of a bit of 4140 Ewan.

    BT

  6. #35
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Do you have a supplier for the tanged insert or will you just make one? I'm sure i saw them on a website somewhere.....but can't remember where
    I was looking for these recently - see Arc Euro Trade - Search Results
    Cheers,
    Bill

  7. #36
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    Close Bill, very close, but the Centricator's draw bar thread is 1/2" BSW. Those things are cheaper than chips.

    BT

  8. #37
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    Default Locking Screw-any suggestions

    Bob,
    I made a similar set up to fit a 50mm face mill into a NT40 arbour, the arbor did not have a through hole so I machined up a 1/2"Whitworth threaded tang and loctited it into the face mill. I then seated the face mill into the arbor firmly,set it up in the mill drilled and taped the tang and made a loose fitting removable side tang extension that the allen screw fits into. I do intend to
    make a much neater fitting side tang, but so far after using this cutter quite a bit it has not moved. Would your intended use have as much load/vibtation as my face mill? My idea was just to ensure that the face mill could not drop out. Photo to help understand the above description.
    Bob
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  9. #38
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    Default Two Bobs think alike!

    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Bob,
    I made a similar set up to fit a 50mm face mill into a NT40 arbour, the arbor did not have a through hole so I machined up a 1/2"Whitworth threaded tang and loctited it into the face mill. I then seated the face mill into the arbor firmly,set it up in the mill drilled and taped the tang and made a loose fitting removable side tang extension that the allen screw fits into. I do intend to
    make a much neater fitting side tang, but so far after using this cutter quite a bit it has not moved. Would your intended use have as much load/vibtation as my face mill? My idea was just to ensure that the face mill could not drop out. Photo to help understand the above description.
    Bob

    The intended use of my setup would be less vigorous than cake decorating Bob. My side tang doen't need to be much more than a screw in stud. I'm heading up the shed now to start on it.

    Bob.

  10. #39
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    Default Locking Screw-any suggestions

    Bob,
    One point I forgot to mention is height of the location on the taper of your threaded hole. I made mine further up the taper to allow you to start the taper engagement and be able to see the hole so that you could rotate the two pieces to ensure correct alignment before the taper took up fully. Hope this makes sense for you. I will be looking for your finished work. You always set a high standard.
    Bob

  11. #40
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    Default Done , but with some teething problems.

    I had machined the tang with what I thought were nice coves at the flange end. When I mounted the assembly in the mill spindle I had an unbelievable 6 thou run out with the indicator stylus running on the 3M taper.

    The 30 to 3 adapter has 0.00015" TIR at the outer end. Pretty bloody impressive. So something was wrong. Turned out the nice coves were in actual fact useless. They were preventing the proper seating of the taper in the socket.

    So function before style, off they came.

    The last photo shows the table in its lowest position. There is 50mm clearance between it and the centricator stylus. 50 is better than the 35mm I would have had with the other adapter.

    BT
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  12. #41
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    As always, beautiful work Bob

    Shame about the curves, i'm sure my tanged tapers have curves and not a square corner.....but then i don't really pay much attention to them. If you think of the table clearance being 143% more than the other option, its sounds like you have heaps more space
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  13. #42
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    I like your maths Ewan.

    The German arbor end is buried about 4mm deeper than the end of the taper on a tanged arbor hence buenos dias to the cove. I did like it but I came a bit unstuck when I used a 3/16" long series end mill to tighten the radius. Too long and too much flex milling the 4140. What you see is a lot of filing before I chopped it all off.

    BT

  14. #43
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    Default Locking Screw-any suggestions

    Bob,
    When I made my adaptor I ran into a similar problem I had to modify my adaptors by machining the curves further down, I see you did not have the space for this.I had to reduce the width of the top of the tang as well as it was making contact on the top of the internal tang slot and like you found not allowing the taper to mate correctly. I do not know if there is a standard set of dimensions for tangs. I also found after measuring all of the tang ends on my small range of tooling that no two were the same. Nice work as usual and your solution to the original problem should be solved. That sure is a fancy looking indicator.
    Bob

  15. #44
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    Hi BT,
    Did you give any thought to making an adaptor along the lines of this?
    (sorry its late, its an attempt at drawing part of a 30 taper over the MT3 taper of the centricator. It should give you another 20mm(??) though you'll need a special drawbar.

    Stuart
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  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisfarm View Post
    Bob,
    When I made my adaptor I ran into a similar problem I had to modify my adaptors by machining the curves further down, I see you did not have the space for this.I had to reduce the width of the top of the tang as well as it was making contact on the top of the internal tang slot and like you found not allowing the taper to mate correctly. I do not know if there is a standard set of dimensions for tangs. I also found after measuring all of the tang ends on my small range of tooling that no two were the same. Nice work as usual and your solution to the original problem should be solved. That sure is a fancy looking indicator.
    Bob
    More on Mahrs here Bob. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...3/#post1289149

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi BT,
    Did you give any thought to making an adaptor along the lines of this?
    (sorry its late, its an attempt at drawing part of a 30 taper over the MT3 taper of the centricator. It should give you another 20mm(??) though you'll need a special drawbar.

    Stuart
    I had not considered alternatives to the precision ground conventional adapter Stu.
    My concern is accuracy. Not much chance on me achieving the impressively low TIR of Alan's adapter with something home made. In fact there's no chance. But I will measure the two tapers and the spindle bore to see if it is feasible.
    I do have the Dumore. It could probably cope with grinding a short 3M bore. Worth thinking about it a bit.

    Bob.

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