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1st November 2012, 07:48 AM #31GOLD MEMBER
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happy to help
was it my bad spelling that did it.
funny provoked isn't all ways a negative word
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1st November 2012 07:48 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st November 2012, 08:22 AM #32.
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1st November 2012, 09:49 PM #33
Its is very simple, good thinking!
Do you have a supplier for the tanged insert or will you just make one? I'm sure i saw them on a website somewhere.....but can't remember where1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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1st November 2012, 11:00 PM #34.
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2nd November 2012, 01:14 PM #35Senior Member
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I was looking for these recently - see Arc Euro Trade - Search Results
Cheers,
Bill
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2nd November 2012, 02:01 PM #36.
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Close Bill, very close, but the Centricator's draw bar thread is 1/2" BSW. Those things are cheaper than chips.
BT
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2nd November 2012, 03:58 PM #37Senior Member
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Locking Screw-any suggestions
Bob,
I made a similar set up to fit a 50mm face mill into a NT40 arbour, the arbor did not have a through hole so I machined up a 1/2"Whitworth threaded tang and loctited it into the face mill. I then seated the face mill into the arbor firmly,set it up in the mill drilled and taped the tang and made a loose fitting removable side tang extension that the allen screw fits into. I do intend to
make a much neater fitting side tang, but so far after using this cutter quite a bit it has not moved. Would your intended use have as much load/vibtation as my face mill? My idea was just to ensure that the face mill could not drop out. Photo to help understand the above description.
Bob
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2nd November 2012, 06:25 PM #38.
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2nd November 2012, 08:03 PM #39Senior Member
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Locking Screw-any suggestions
Bob,
One point I forgot to mention is height of the location on the taper of your threaded hole. I made mine further up the taper to allow you to start the taper engagement and be able to see the hole so that you could rotate the two pieces to ensure correct alignment before the taper took up fully. Hope this makes sense for you. I will be looking for your finished work. You always set a high standard.
Bob
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3rd November 2012, 07:04 PM #40.
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Done , but with some teething problems.
I had machined the tang with what I thought were nice coves at the flange end. When I mounted the assembly in the mill spindle I had an unbelievable 6 thou run out with the indicator stylus running on the 3M taper.
The 30 to 3 adapter has 0.00015" TIR at the outer end. Pretty bloody impressive. So something was wrong. Turned out the nice coves were in actual fact useless. They were preventing the proper seating of the taper in the socket.
So function before style, off they came.
The last photo shows the table in its lowest position. There is 50mm clearance between it and the centricator stylus. 50 is better than the 35mm I would have had with the other adapter.
BT
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3rd November 2012, 07:29 PM #41
As always, beautiful work Bob
Shame about the curves, i'm sure my tanged tapers have curves and not a square corner.....but then i don't really pay much attention to them. If you think of the table clearance being 143% more than the other option, its sounds like you have heaps more space1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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3rd November 2012, 09:02 PM #42.
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I like your maths Ewan.
The German arbor end is buried about 4mm deeper than the end of the taper on a tanged arbor hence buenos dias to the cove. I did like it but I came a bit unstuck when I used a 3/16" long series end mill to tighten the radius. Too long and too much flex milling the 4140. What you see is a lot of filing before I chopped it all off.
BT
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3rd November 2012, 09:04 PM #43Senior Member
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Locking Screw-any suggestions
Bob,
When I made my adaptor I ran into a similar problem I had to modify my adaptors by machining the curves further down, I see you did not have the space for this.I had to reduce the width of the top of the tang as well as it was making contact on the top of the internal tang slot and like you found not allowing the taper to mate correctly. I do not know if there is a standard set of dimensions for tangs. I also found after measuring all of the tang ends on my small range of tooling that no two were the same. Nice work as usual and your solution to the original problem should be solved. That sure is a fancy looking indicator.
Bob
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4th November 2012, 01:10 AM #44GOLD MEMBER
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Hi BT,
Did you give any thought to making an adaptor along the lines of this?
(sorry its late, its an attempt at drawing part of a 30 taper over the MT3 taper of the centricator. It should give you another 20mm(??) though you'll need a special drawbar.
Stuart
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4th November 2012, 09:19 AM #45.
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More on Mahrs here Bob. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ma...3/#post1289149
I had not considered alternatives to the precision ground conventional adapter Stu.
My concern is accuracy. Not much chance on me achieving the impressively low TIR of Alan's adapter with something home made. In fact there's no chance. But I will measure the two tapers and the spindle bore to see if it is feasible.
I do have the Dumore. It could probably cope with grinding a short 3M bore. Worth thinking about it a bit.
Bob.
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