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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Australind ,WA
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    Default Looking for someone else perspective

    Hi Gents,
    I wish to consult the Brains Trust ......

    I am fitting a LH accelerator pedal to my new car and have had to cut a spare pedal I bought, as this is the easiest way to do it. I tested the pedal and it works fine, the pedal alignment is just wrong and I am attempting to remedy that, so I can use it.
    I am acutely aware that it must be very safe and done properly so I do not wish to get into that aspect.
    Original pedal was an L shape. My requirement is for a fairly straight pedal.
    I have thought of two possible way to do this, given that the load on the arm is fairly high.( I haven't measured it, but guess it would be around 2 kg to operate the pedal.)
    1. I could use epoxy to fill the voids and locate 2 spacers on either side, so that I could bolt a aluminum plate to either side of the arms, when set. ( not sure how I could locate the spacers and stop them filling with epoxy, while it sets overnight.)

    2. I could cut out small section of the strengthening cross bars on both sides, and fill all the voids with epoxy to create a solid section, when it sets.

    Any other possible option?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
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    Default

    Can you remove the lever arm entirely and replace it with a steel section about 8mm thick? I'm not sure that I'd trust a splint such as you describe in an accident, but that may be me just making up excuses to dislike that die cast arm.

    What's the go with a LH accelerator?

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
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    74
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    Default

    Hi Sterob,

    I'm with GQ, best fix would be make a new one, but if you are going to modify the existing one, I'd have thought the plates should be on the top and bottom rather than on the sides.

    The force of (lead foot) on pedal is straight down, putting plates on the top and bottom would be stronger.

    What material is the existing arm made from?

    Regards
    Ray

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
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    Default

    What about removing the red ribs, making an Alum block to fit into the space, epoxy in place and add as many srcews/bolts as you feel is necessary. edit*plates top and bottom as Ray suggests if you like*
    Not sure about making it to strong, it maybe meant to fail in a crash, of course yours is a little different now.

    Stuart

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind ,WA
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    Default

    "Can you remove the lever arm entirely and replace it with a steel section about 8mm thick?"

    No, its an integral part of the pedal.

    I'm not sure that I'd trust a splint such as you describe in an accident, but that may be me just making up excuses to dislike that die cast arm.

    Not sure what you mean about in an accident.

    What's the go with a LH accelerator?

    I'm a Right leg Amputee

    Greg[/QUOTE]

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    What about removing the red ribs, making an Alum block to fit into the space, epoxy in place and add as many srcews/bolts as you feel is necessary. ...

    Stuart
    Thats an interesting idea.It might be alot less mucking around as well. I'll have a look tomorrow and see how hard that would be.

    Thanks Guys!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    1. I could use epoxy to fill the voids and locate 2 spacers on either side, so that I could bolt a aluminum plate to either side of the arms, when set. ( not sure how I could locate the spacers and stop them filling with epoxy, while it sets overnight.)
    That's basically what I would do. But don't bother with spacers.
    Tape up the crack and fill voids with epoxy.
    Drill tight fitting holes in the epoxy after it has set.
    Make up two plates out of 4 or 5 mm ally and use counter sunk screws and thread the plate on the other side.
    Put the whole thing together with loctite - even loctite the bolts in the epoxy so nothing moves.



    If you could get a friendly ally welder to weld the two plates together across one side would add some strength.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,793

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Sterob,

    I'm with GQ, best fix would be make a new one, but if you are going to modify the existing one, I'd have thought the plates should be on the top and bottom rather than on the sides.

    The force of (lead foot) on pedal is straight down, putting plates on the top and bottom would be stronger.
    I'd have thought that wider Flat plates on edge (sides) would be much stronger than narrower flat plate top and bottom - a combo of both or a U-channel would be better still.

  10. #9
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    Sep 2006
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    Default

    I thought side plates would be the best as they will be straight (top and bottom plates would need to be banged into shape and if they were off, they would load the join when I tightened the fasteners.)
    I made some spacers today and I think I will still use them as they a very snug in the geometric spaces, so will offer very high rigidity and will spread the load on the surrounding epoxy.
    I think I will also use epoxy on the side plates and not tighten them completely until it sets.
    I have Arildited the parts together( to seal the gaps) and will buy some epoxy tomorrow.
    Looks like it won't be finished this weekend.....

    Thanks for all the comments guys. Sometimes others see good alternative ways of doing things that one don't always see.

    Sterob

  11. #10
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    Jul 2003
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    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    "Can you remove the lever arm entirely and replace it with a steel section about 8mm thick?"

    No, its an integral part of the pedal.

    I'm not sure that I'd trust a splint such as you describe in an accident, but that may be me just making up excuses to dislike that die cast arm.

    Not sure what you mean about in an accident.

    What's the go with a LH accelerator?

    I'm a Right leg Amputee

    Greg
    [/QUOTE]

    I understand better now, thanks. Let me retract what I said earlier about the side plates...they would have better beam strength.

    Thinking about strength in an accident...I guess its about 1000 times more likely that your foot would be on the brake pedal.

    Years ago I owned Porsche 911 cars from time to time. Cheapest motoring imaginable for many reasons. Anyway, their pedals were made by blacksmiths...just a chunk of 8mm steel with a tube welded across the top and a plate with rubber pad on the bottom. Something like that was what I was thinking. (They were top hung btw)

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  12. #11
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    Default

    And on third thought...I see that the throttle assembly is an Audi throttle-by-wire unit. I can see now why my earlier suggestion wouldn't fly, or at least would be a major pain to fabricate.

    Greg
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  13. #12
    Join Date
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    Australind ,WA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Q View Post
    And on third thought...I see that the throttle assembly is an Audi throttle-by-wire unit. I can see now why my earlier suggestion wouldn't fly, or at least would be a major pain to fabricate.

    Greg
    Yes, my previous cars were all cable operated and they had 'different' problems when converting to LH accelerator pedal...lol
    Incidently, the original pedal for this car, does use a 10mm round bar for the arm, but I didn't want to tackle that for 2 reasons.
    Firstly the arm itself is has quite random bends in it and would be difficult to re-align without cutting it and secondly, I want to keep it for when I sell the car, down the track. ( I always make sure I leave no evidence of the changes when I change back to stock.)

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Australind ,WA
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    Default All Done

    I have finally finished fabricating on this job. Four days of work it has taken me....unbelievable.
    Anyway I am very pleased with how it turned out and confident that the join in the pedal arm will be very strong.
    I just have to tidy up some lines and paint the parts I made satin black and refit the dash cover. Will have to wait for next weekend now.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi Sterob,
    Come up great.

    Stuart

  16. #15
    Join Date
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    Default

    Hi Sterob,

    Looks the goods, better than a bought one, and looks plenty strong enough to handle the heaviest lead foot..

    Regards
    Ray

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