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  1. #1
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    Default Looking for a piece of hollow bar

    I want to fit a vertical head to my old Cash horizontal mill. I need a piece of hollow bar about 450mm long that can be turned to 76mm finished OD size and somewhere around 40mm ID (or less).
    I have a solid hot rolled bar that size (and would happily swap it for a hollow bar). I had intended drilling it through, but no longer believe I would success in soing that with any of my machinery
    I can see that 75/40 hollow bar should be available, but have not found anyone who would cut me a piece nor give me a price over the phone.... I sispect it will be very expensive

    Any alternative ideas are very much appreciated.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Try Interlloy or Bohler Udderholm, that's where I go for that type of steel.

    Their minimum qty might be half a meter plus a cut charge.

    Hollow bar costs a decent amount more than solid bar because of the manufacturing process.

  4. #3
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    There is a place here in Adelaide that does hollow bar (the name will come to me some time today). They have a minimum order value of $100 (not inc. GST). As a result off cuts do accumulate. I have a spare metre of 50x30 hollow bar as well as a piece of 120x70, 300mm long.
    I could get some and put it on a courier if that is a help. Minimum weight will be about 12kg though.

    Michael

    On edit: it is Bohler steel
    Last edited by Michael G; 8th July 2013 at 09:24 AM. Reason: added bit

  5. #4
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    G'day Joe.

    Would you consider Cast Iron hollow bar? Flocast show a 80 / 45. I pretty sure they cut to length.

    http://www.flocast.com.au/CENTRIFUGA...WEIGHTS%20.pdf

    They still even take cheques. They are only up the road from me, so I could pick up for you.

    Contact Us : Manufacturer of Cast Iron Bars,Copper Alloys Brass,Hollow Bar Use the dispatch email address for Luke.

    Regards Phil.

  6. #5
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    Hi Joe,

    I'd take a trip up to Rich River Dealers in Echuca, and have a rummage in their scrap, I'm pretty sure I saw some hollow bar of around that sort of size..

    Regards
    Ray

  7. #6
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    we have some 4140 about the right diameters, but not long enough. But it makes me think you might be able to get what you need from a scraped hydraulic cylinder?
    -Josh

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian View Post
    we have some 4140 about the right diameters, but not long enough. But it makes me think you might be able to get what you need from a scraped hydraulic cylinder?
    -Josh
    I didn't check the size on that stuff, but that came from GV Engineering, I'm sure they had more in stock. It's used for making hydraulic stuff.

    Regards
    Ray

  9. #8
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    Thank you all for the suggestions and offers!
    Phil, I thought about it but think cast might be a bit risky - the length is there to allow me to position the vertical head out a bit from the machine column. It might then be at risk from shock (when I make amistake).... Steel might be a bit more forgiving....

    I think I must take a drive to Echuca in any case - might even drive back via Kyabram and Shepparton

    Watching the deep hole thread stated by Stuart with great interest as well!
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Thank you all for the suggestions and offers!
    Phil, I thought about it but think cast might be a bit risky - the length is there to allow me to position the vertical head out a bit from the machine column. It might then be at risk from shock (when I make amistake).... Steel might be a bit more forgiving....
    If you can break a piece of cast iron that big, you've got bigger problems than the relative strength of steel to cast iron.

    Biggest advantage of steel is the ability to weld bits to it, otherwise I'd use cast iron myself. I like the stuff.

    PDW

  11. #10
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    Hi Joe,
    If you have to buy new you can always use 3d cast iron, if indeed you are worried about the strength. But the rest of the machine will be grey cast iron so depending on how your bar is mounted it won't really make a difference to overal strength.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  12. #11
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    Hi Joe,
    To Save you a trip, Rich River Dealers, have nothing suitable. (spent the day in Echuca)
    tinkera

  13. #12
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    Psst, Ray,



    We have outsiders raiding our favourite scrappy.

    Ken

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toggy View Post
    Psst, Ray,



    We have outsiders raiding our favourite scrappy.

    Ken

    Ha!.... no drama, so long as they don't find the good stuff....

    Regards
    Ray

  15. #14
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    Well, encouraged by Stuart's success in deep hole drilling, I had a go at drilling my solid 3" bar through on a friend's bigger lathe.
    It worked like a charm! I had made a long extension for a short reduced shank drill an silver soldered it on. Looked good, but didn't work well at all. It is a cheep Chinese drill and I think they forgot to harden it....
    Fortunately my friend Peter has lots of drills and I ended up drilling it from both ends, meeting in the middle PERFECTLY! Not a step of any kind visible. The the bar is now 360mm long and the through hole is 28mm.
    uploadfromtaptalk1373816402136.jpg
    Cheers,
    Joe
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

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