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Thread: Looking for some sharp ideas
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13th May 2013, 11:26 AM #31SENIOR MEMBER
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14th May 2013, 01:06 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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17th May 2013, 09:33 AM #33Senior Member
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I think those cone screw splitters are quite safe if they are made correctly. The car wheel types seem to be made with the intention of pulling peoples arms off.
The cone screw needs to be quite close to the base to prevent the wood turning.
Are these cone screws available in Australia or is it something else OH&S has outlawed. I've seen a few European and US sites selling them.
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21st May 2013, 09:24 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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I should damn well hope they are outlawed!
It beggars belief that anyone would use one. Even the most basic of risk assessments would preclude their use. There is no way to release yourself from one if you become caught, there is a danger of the block catching and spinning. Just try to split wood with several digits or an arm missing.
IMHO, there is but one acceptable power source for a wood splitter - hydraulics. The crank and conrod type are non reversible until they complete a stroke, this is okay until your hand or fingers get in the way, the cone screw are something best left in the dark ages whereas hydraulic is reversible at any point if set up correctly, easily incorporates a dead man release and has the advantage of being non mechanical, meaning that stalling out will not cause breakage etc.
Having said that, the most cost effective splitter I know of is a Fiskars X25 or X27. If they won't do it then rip, (noodle), it with your chainsaw.
I do own a wood splitter, it is combined with a 48" saw bench and is of the Super axe design, powered by a 55HP diesel engine, when completed it will also incorporate a conveyor belt to load the cut and split wood onto a ute or truck.
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21st May 2013, 10:08 PM #35Senior Member
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22nd May 2013, 10:42 AM #36GOLD MEMBER
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22nd May 2013, 11:06 AM #37SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes, totally agree. That's why I have a gas heater
This study of injuries makes interesting reading.
Over 80% of injuries were from wedge type splitters.
http://www.ciop.pl/43475
Rob
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22nd May 2013, 02:39 PM #38SENIOR MEMBER
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26th May 2013, 10:55 PM #39Product designer retired
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Polishing axe head
I have a wood splitter, and an axe, the wood splitter has trouble splitting red gum logs with the wavy grain, the axe is better.
Question, how do I polish the sides of the axe, to a mirror finish?
I reckon the smoother the axe sides, the better.
Ken
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27th May 2013, 04:55 AM #40
I would say that if your splitter has trouble splitting wavy grained red gum then it cannot be very powerful. In my experience a hand splitter (Canadian style) is far better than an axe splitting wood.
To find out about polishing your axe look at wood cutting competition information. Those guys can use their axe to shave, both as a blade and a mirror. For wood splitting I have always thought that smoothing with sandpaper/emery to say 600 grit would be adequate. I always intended to do this with my hand splitter but I have not used it in years, mainly due to a medical condition that reduces my lung capacity, which makes splitting by hand rather slow and tiring. Therefore I built a hydraulic one.
My homemade hydraulic splitter has problems splitting red gum forks. I have to find the right position. Wavy or prickly forms of red gum just get split along with the rest. We pick up forks that most people leave behind.
I am not trying to brag, just saying that some are better than others. I am pretty sure that mine cost more than yours but then we have a kitchen range, and slow combustion in the lounge and we rely on these for all heating, hot water and most cooking.
Dean
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27th May 2013, 07:30 AM #41SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Ken,
One of my apprentices a while back was the junior Victorian woodchop champion. He would sit there for hours after tea with an Arkansas stone and just keep rubbing the sides. He was always searching ebay for very old stones, apparently the older ones are better
Phil
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